Look, no ratchet straps.

[Mangate]

After having my OME lift (926/948 + OME shocks) and JBA A-arms for a year, I finally got round to fitting.
I didn't need ratchet straps to get the clevis back on, or does this only apply to taller lifts?

I did not remove the caliper or tie rods and this probably helped preventing the drive shafts from sliding out of the diff. I loosely fitted the 4 top strut nuts which gave me some movement to get the clevis back on and get the bottom bolt through. Then I tightened the top strut nuts, jacked up the LCA to push the clevis up against the conduit washers, then tightened both clevis bolts.

First impressions are good, took it over some speed humps at reasonably high speed without hitting the bump stops (still OEM), although it did bottom out on droop. It's obvious I desperately need an alignment, the handling is terrible.

 

[tommudd]

With just the springs alone you can throw them in real easy, just when you add more lift is when you need rachet straps
Lots easier to do with the caliper and tie rod off as well, for the time it takes to R&R them its worth it, more room to work , again esp. when adding to the regular OME lift

 

[yellocoyote]

Pry bars work in place of ratchet straps as well. That's how we've reassembled mine on a number of occasions.

 

[tommudd]

Pry bars work until you go up way high, no way you can pry mine in anymore, tough enough with ratchet straps!:disgust:
Plus so much easier with them. I hate to break a sweat installing a lift:happy175:

 

[trichard310]

I added a .75" rusty's spacer yesterday to my ome/rancho's and didn't need a ratchet strap. Measures at 23" now.:icon_twisted: I did have to disconnect the UCA and tie rod ends though.