it all started with P0320 but....

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Leeann

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950-1000 rpm at cold start, dropping to 650-700 when warm is completely normal.
 

uss2defiant

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Clean the IAC as in my post u found. You may have a friginn stickn plunger= higher rpm.
Sometimes air is still in the steering system and need to get er out.
I took my jeep at slow speeds forward into figure 8s full turn left/rights to get the air out.
Re-Check The Steering fluid level and see if you notice any bubbles in fluid...

PS dont leave the jeep long in full cocked turns it will stress/over heat quick if u do..just short quick full turns while moving forward..

Thanks for the suggestions!
 

uss2defiant

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more work on Pepper to be done.

The next priority on Pepper are the brakes. While it was at the shop, I asked them to do a brake inspection. They mentioned that the front right caliper is sticking.
There's no jerking while braking or sponginess. The jeep does drift to the right while driving which could be explained by the caliper issue.

Again, I haven't done a brake job before but looking though different post. I think it's fairly straight forward to do the job myself but fixing the brake caliper might be another thing.
i couldn't find a guide in this forum but found one on LOST here.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=5142

rotor question:
It looks like a few forum members use the NAPA ultra premiums and the adaptive one pads.
Any reason to go ultra premiums instead of premiums? I think the only difference is the tolerances to it.

brake caliper question:
it looks like it is just replacing o-rings and boot for the brake caliper rebuild?
should I attempt this given I have no experience besides youtube references?
buy a replacement from NAPA?
Is it mainly more of a time vs money question?
I'm planning to either replace both front calipers or rebuild both.
Should the caliper mounts be replaced too?

Thanks.
 
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tlrtucker

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Doing brakes on a vehicle, especially disc brakes, is one of the easier jobs you can do. The hardest part is bleeding the brakes, which honestly is just more annoying than anything. Definitely research it first, youtube videos are a good start, but it's really easy
 

Leeann

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The reason for Ultra Premium rotors is they are Made in USA; Premiums are Made in China.

The caliper sticking is either the pins aren't greased or the rubber they slide in has swelled. Take the caliper off (one at a time so you have the other side as a reference), support it with wire from the coil spring and see how the pins slide. Pull them out of their boots and see if they're greased. If no grease, grease 'em up liberally with caliper grease and put them back together. If plenty of grease but still feel sticky, then it's time for new boots.

You'll need a C-clamp to push the piston back into its bore to get new pads on.
 

uss2defiant

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The reason for Ultra Premium rotors is they are Made in USA; Premiums are Made in China.

The caliper sticking is either the pins aren't greased or the rubber they slide in has swelled. Take the caliper off (one at a time so you have the other side as a reference), support it with wire from the coil spring and see how the pins slide. Pull them out of their boots and see if they're greased. If no grease, grease 'em up liberally with caliper grease and put them back together. If plenty of grease but still feel sticky, then it's time for new boots.

You'll need a C-clamp to push the piston back into its bore to get new pads on.

I'll make sure to check for those but
How would I tell if the caliper it self is bad/good (the piston part)?
Thanks.
 

Leeann

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If you see evidence of the piston leaking, the seal will need to be replaced.
 

uss2defiant

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since the wifey can't remember anything about the brakes, I'll just do a replacement w/ semi-loaded calipers.

W/ regards to the adaptive ones pads, are 'brake quiet' required?
Should I pack the sliding pins w/ more silicon lube?

Thanks.
 

tjkj2002

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Somewhere between being sane and insane!
since the wifey can't remember anything about the brakes, I'll just do a replacement w/ semi-loaded calipers.

W/ regards to the adaptive ones pads, are 'brake quiet' required?
Should I pack the sliding pins w/ more silicon lube?

Thanks.
The Adaptive One pads will come with brake lube.Clean and re-lube the slide pins with a light coat only.To much and the pins will not fully go into the holes since it will be packed with grease.




Make sure you pay attention when installing the Adaptive One pads,there is a "outer" and "inner" pad for each side and yes they are labeled(read included instructions).
 

uss2defiant

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Hey, I was thinking of sourcing for some high temperature rubber or silicone sheets to DIY some dirt covers that my ignition coils are missing.

What sort of temperature limits should I spec out a sheet of rubber/silicone?
-60° to 500° F?
something like this could work?
McMaster-Carr


Edit:
So i just found another problem
I typically don't drive the jeep cause I cycle to work.
I took it on a drive just now and noticed that the idle jumps up to about 1200 RPM and back down to 700 RPM shifting into Park or into Neutral.
It does go down to normal RPM but there was one instance that it stayed at 1200 RPM.
Any idea what could cause this?
TPS?

Thanks.
 
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uss2defiant

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Hey ya'll, I have a question about the anti-rattle clips that come with the adaptive one pads. Sorry but I haven't done a brake job before.

Do they sit flush the notches on the caliper mount? or do they bend in slightly in wards?
The provide tabs are bent in and makes it fairly difficult to put the pads in.

Also, if I understand this correctly, the anti-rattle clip's function is to act as a spacer and the pad should slide smoothly in the clip. Is this correct?

Thanks.
 
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