I think I'll start a new thread- right rear upper shock mount

[BjBnet]

Long story short, my shock was knocking a bit so I wanted to tighten it up but the bolt wouldn't budge/ I figured I would take it out but broke it off. No success at taking out the bolt with drilling, extracting, cussing....now it's too bad to fix.

I noticed the mount goes through the frame and comes out the other side and has the exhaust pipe hanger bolted on....same size bolt as the shock so I figure it's thread right through.

Here are my plans. Grind the weld on the exhaust side pull the threaded piece out and have another one made and weld it into place.... BAM just like new? I hope.

Anyone ever have problems with the rear right mount and done something extreme like this? Will it work? Looks like that's how it's made....
Thanks for your help in my other thread.

 

[BjBnet]

hmmm, doesn't look like that mount is welded on... anyone have a good pic of where the stud for the exhaust hanger goes in? I have factory undercoating plus, snow, salt, sand and a kitchen sink covering that area.
My kj has been on blocks now for 4 days and I think I'm gonna cry because I hear it calling my name late at night lol

 

[BjBnet]

no one has a pic of the underside of their KJ where the exhaust pipe hanger is?

 

[speedracerbubba]

I took a pic but tapatalk is not letting it upload. I can email it to you. Just shoot me an email to my username here @gmail.com and I'll reply with the pic.

 

[BjBnet]

sent...thanks

 

[BjBnet]

SO I'm done with the repairs...almost. The way to remove the rear right upper shock mount is to grind the weld the exhaust side and grind just about everything around the pin on the shock side.
I had a new piece made about 4.5 inches long drilled in the center and tapped to M12x1.75 to fit the shock bolt.
Like I said, I got the old mounting pin out and the new one in and the shock back on. All that's left is to bring it to a shop and have them weld the new pin then I'm all set. Thanks for your replies and suggestions in the other thread.
Oh and I need to order the original top shock bolt because NO dealer in town has it..there must be something like 6 or 7dealers, go figure.
I picked one up at Lowe's but it's not threaded far enough and it's only 8.8 steel so I need to replace it asap.
If anyone has a spare could you send it to me, I can paypal you ;-) it's M12x1.75x80

 

[huntbuggy]

Just got two upper shock mount bolts with my www.moparonlineparts.com order just in case. Might not need to replace mine with the lift they don't look totally rusted out and after your experience I am less inclined to mess with them anyway.

Original part # 06506147AA M12x1.75x80

Let me know they only ran me $3.11 apiece from our US friends. If you still need them drop me a PM we can do a before/after photo of my KJ at a local Tim's or something.

 

[BjBnet]

thanks but I got 2 new bolts from Ottawa Fasteners.
Just make sure you grease the "neck" of the bolts where the shock sits. That's where my rattling came from, the original bolt was rusted down in size a bit.
If it's the first time you remove the bolts you shouldn't have any problems. I found out the hard way that just about every stock bolt I removed and reinstalled seized after about 2 years.
When you're ready for an alignment you might want to ask them to remove the adjuster bolts and grease those too. Mine seized up between the first when I did the lift and a year later when I put the new UCAs in. Had to cut them off and get new lower control arms. Most of these problems are due to the fact that we use ALOT of salt on our roads in winter.

Other than that, read and re-read the instructions and take your time putting in the lift and like I said before, if you need a hand just holla!

 

[huntbuggy]

thanks but I got 2 new bolts from Ottawa Fasteners.
Just make sure you grease the "neck" of the bolts where the shock sits. That's where my rattling came from, the original bolt was rusted down in size a bit.
If it's the first time you remove the bolts you shouldn't have any problems. I found out the hard way that just about every stock bolt I removed and reinstalled seized after about 2 years.
When you're ready for an alignment you might want to ask them to remove the adjuster bolts and grease those too. Mine seized up between the first when I did the lift and a year later when I put the new UCAs in. Had to cut them off and get new lower control arms. Most of these problems are due to the fact that we use ALOT of salt on our roads in winter.

Other than that, read and re-read the instructions and take your time putting in the lift and like I said before, if you need a hand just holla!

Hehe, might be PMing you when I get around to this lift, Timmies or garage beers on me even if just for advice or moral support . A few parts still missing and still setting up for bumper and making jigs to try some bushing reinstalls so hopefully in March will get lucky with a spell of nice weather.

Good tip on fasteners. Will try to use copper anti-seize on the necks or where bolts go into frames or crossmembers. Just have to be careful not to use any at where I fasten nuts or keep clean to ensure stuff stays torqued.
I have a funny feeling I'll be using a whole can of PB Blaster and the big breaker bar for a lot of stuff... my rear lower shock bolt actually has no thread at all past the nut and the front looks like salt has taken it's toll on everything - especially the clevis-lca and clevis pinch. Cleaned everything up at Christmas and put a lot of rustcheck that I'll have to clean off next week or two.

Bought a lot of extra parts just in case, been stuck in the garage in the past after everything closes and can't deal. The list of Jeep tasks just keeps getting longer & longer. Might actually go ahead and put the ARB on just before the lift - same week or two - might make for fun "what not to do to your stock suspension" photos.

 

[sparkman70]

the copper stuff works great on wires too