i may have been wrong!?

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flair1111

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just 2 days ago i replaced my K&N complete set up with a factory air box set up and a very well made cold air intake design ... i think i either A.( didnt drive my KJ long enough with the factory set up....or B.( just got used to the K&N complete set up .....to soon without realizing it.


My point is, that with the factory air box set up by itself...and or using the very well made and designed CAI pieces in unison with a factory box, my lib now seems to need more pedal to even begin to hit 60+mph and maintain anything above that speed. , ...as opposed to the K&N tube and open filter set up. i used to be able (K&N) to hit 60 - 90mph in a few seconds, with very little pedal pressure. Now with factory air box/ custom CAI through the grill, it seems like all i can do to maintain 70mph without sticking my foot though the floor.

i swear, i wish i had actual numbers to confirm this vs just the way it feels. i thought the K&N may have been a waste of money, but now i seem to feel (in the pedal at least ) the opposite in a real bug way since changing back to stock plus a bit of CIA modding..

thoughts?

any real numbers out there...as in EVIC or such as meaningful numbers??

The modding is the use of LTTs CIA pieces, which are nice BTW. no put down meant towards him or his design. ild just like to have real numbers vs just feel is all. All i can confirm is the use of more pedal. but with computer controlled gas/air mixtures.....i may just be way wrong all the way around. more pedal might not equal less mpg or power in this case....vs carb controlled engines like im most used to.

help/thoughts????
 
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jnaut

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just 2 days ago i replaced my K&N complete set up with a factory air box set up and a very well made cold air intake design ... i think i either A.( didnt drive my KJ long enough with the factory set up....or B.( just got used to the K&N complete set up .....to soon without realizing it.


My point is, that with the factory air box set up by itself...and or using the very well made and designed CAI pieces in unison with a factory box, my lib now seems to need more pedal to even begin to hit 60+mph and maintain anything above that speed. , ...as opposed to the K&N tube and open filter set up. i used to be able (K&N) to hit 60 - 90mph in a few seconds, with very little pedal pressure. Now with factory air box/ custom CAI through the grill, it seems like all i can do to maintain 70mph without sticking my foot though the floor.

i swear, i wish i had actual numbers to confirm this vs just the way it feels. i thought the K&N may have been a waste of money, but now i seem to feel (in the pedal at least ) the opposite in a real bug way since changing back to stock plus a bit of CIA modding..


Don't the K&N's advertise they provide better flow? Probably true. Ever stick it on a dyno?
 

flair1111

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Don't the K&N's advertise they provide better flow? Probably true. Ever stick it on a dyno?

if i had the extra money i sure would. that would be the real test for sure.
 
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flair1111

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Why not just get a snorkel?

ive thought about that as well. but LTTs design would be just as good or very close to that IMO, minus the water fording levels...


i did do a temp test with the K&N which seemed very good until you hit 25mph or less, then the temps being sucked down the throttle body rose a great deal. other than that i dont think you could beat a K&N....just confused.

wished we could have a real set of numbers to confirm all kinds of set ups vs just the feel of the pedal.

i wish i had an EVIC at least ...lol!
 

HoosierJeeper

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I'm pretty sure the KN intake added more horsepower..so when you removed it you lost it, so that explains why you have trouble keeping up speed. Correct me if I'm wrong.
 

flair1111

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Change the stock paper filter for an Amsoil one. They have higher flow rates.
i have a K&N in that as well. thats why it doesnt make sense to me. should be pretty close.

EDIT ...



now i must add that in using LTTs CAI pieces, i have had to add a 2" rubber coupling between the intake piece at the grill, just to get it back to a 3' piece at the air box fabbed piece....other wise i could not get the 3 " dryer vent hose to attach to the bottom end.

This may be the problem. if so a 1" diff in pipe pieces, even if its only a 1 inch, just might make up that difference. It felt to my hand, that it was no big deal + the air pressure being added when going down the road. maybe thats the diff????

still confused but yet not??
 
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Dave

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The aftermarket intake you had before was a straight shot into the intake, and the one you got on now has a couple of bends so maybe there was a stronger airflow with the other set up.

I am no expert, but just thinking out loud here.

Dave
 

flair1111

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The aftermarket intake you had before was a straight shot into the intake, and the one you got on now has a couple of bends so maybe there was a stronger airflow with the other set up.

I am no expert, but just thinking out loud here.

Dave

thats what im thinking.
 

sleeve

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Couple things that I'm thinking about

#1 With the stock ECU program, the KJ will never make more than 215HP. The computer will not allow it. If it had a B&G flash you can make more power but without, it's pointless

#2 Did you reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes? The computer might be trying to adjust back to settings that account for the different airflow

#3 In order to determine an perceived loss in HP you will have to dyno the FIPK system against the LTT system. Without this information, in a controlled enviornment, the results could be skewed due to headwind, spark plugs at the end of their life, perception of power loss, etc...

#4 The FIPK does have a better "straight" shot of air so maybe at the higher RPM range you would "feel" a difference and this might be where the ECU is having trouble adjusting..

Just thoughts, not trying to say you aren't on to something. But for me the stock airbox on the KJ is well designed with very few bends and a good feed of air from the outside. It would be very interesting to put some data behind what you noticed.
 

tjkj2002

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#1 With the stock ECU program, the KJ will never make more than 215HP. The computer will not allow it. If it had a B&G flash you can make more power but without, it's pointless
Not 100% true for '02 KJ's,they will make 30+HP and 40lbs-ft of torque over 210HP(actual HP rating) with OEM tuning,and no mods needed!

As far as your issue flair poeple say also that the JET chip doesn't work,not true since once I removed it for 2 weeks and my KJ ran like a$$,but it back on and all was well agin,never taking it off till the 4.7 is installed.
 

coloradored

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well it sounds like you are having all kinds of intake trouble! first you cant give the K&N away and now you would hate to lose it:p
 
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flair1111

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well it sounds like you are having all kinds of intake trouble! first you cant give the K&N away and now you would hate to lose it:p

yes, i feel stupid and embarrassed.:p:D

something i did earlier today was to just let the bottom end of the vent hose just "sit/hang" loose around the 2" coupling i had to install on the grill intake piece rather than actually using a hose clamp to seal it up tight. havent got to drive it yet, but i will later on today.

im thinking that this will get the air from the outside to shoot or be sucked up into the airbox as much as possible , but yet still allow the 3"vent hose to pull in any extra that it might not have been able to when it was clamped tight at the bottom.

we will see:cool:
 

flair1111

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yes, i feel stupid and embarrassed.:p:D

something i did earlier today was to just let the bottom end of the vent hose just "sit/hang" loose around the 2" coupling i had to install on the grill intake piece rather than actually using a hose clamp to seal it up tight. havent got to drive it yet, but i will later on today.

im thinking that this will get the air from the outside to shoot or be sucked up into the air box as much as possible , but yet still allow the 3"vent hose to pull in any extra that it might not have been able to when it was clamped tight at the bottom.

we will see:cool:
for those still interested....


alright i drove the jeep almost all day with different variations vs open K&N tube design. heres what i found out going on just "feel" of the pedal/seat.

it seems that leaving the 3"dryer vent hose open and just let hang over the 2"rubber tube from the grill intake piece, this really did the trick. apparently when it was clamped off air tight, it was just to restrictive and the top end lost a lot of power. leaving it loose felt a little better than stock but not much.

so what Im gonna do is go back to using the K&N tube design and keep LTTs grill intake piece to direct whatever amount of outside air it can grab to the open filter.

Peace! Im outta here, with this intake modding.:)
 
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