How to remove the whole dashboard ?

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benji_KJ2003

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Hi guys, I am planning to put Dynamat in the firewall..........Need a quiet ride since I do long trip a lot....

Where should I start?

I would really appreciate if anyone could provide step-by-step instructions.

Thanks a lot.
 

tjkj2002

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There is sound proofing already on the firewall,inside and out.It's a whole days job to take the dash out and put back in,not real fun and not worth the effort to put dynamat behind it.It's will still be noisy,it's a Jeep.
 

benji_KJ2003

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XD, as long as I know it could be finished in one whole day, I will start the work some day. Thanks...
 

tjkj2002

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REMOVAL​
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE
THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM
CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING
FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG
DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
NOTE: Before starting this procedure, be certain to
turn the steering wheel until the front wheels are in
the straight-ahead position.​
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the instrument panel top cover. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL TOP COVER - REMOVAL)
(3) Remove the speakers.
(4) Remove the floor console. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - REMOVAL)
(5) Remove the radio. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
AUDIO/RADIO - REMOVAL)
(6) Remove the four nuts and remove the center
support bracket. (Fig. 6)
(7) Remove the steering column. (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/COLUMN - REMOVAL)
(8) Remove the drivers side cowl trim cover. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/COWL TRIM COVER -
REMOVAL)
(9) Disconnect the wire harness connector behind
the drivers side cowl trim cover.
(10) Disconnect the green and light blue wire harness
bulk connectors at the junction block. (Fig. 1)
(11) Disconnect the electrical connector at the
inner side of the pedal support bracket. (Fig. 2)
(12) Remove the two bolts at the front of the pedal
support bracket. (Fig. 2)
(13) Remove the two bolts from the bottom side of​
the pedal support bracket. (Fig. 2)
 

tjkj2002

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(14) Remove the two roll down bracket bolts at the
left cowl side panel. (Fig. 6)
(15) Remove the ground strap bolt and disconnect
the restraint module electrical connector. (Fig. 3)
(16) Remove the glove box. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INSTRUMENT PANEL/GLOVE BOX - REMOVAL)
(17) Remove the two HVAC mounting bolts behind
the center trim. (Fig. 3)
(18) Remove the passenger side trim bezel. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/IP PASSENGER
SIDE BEZEL - REMOVAL)
(19) Remove the HVAC mounting bolt above the
glove box striker. (Fig. 4)
(20) Remove the HVAC bolt at the lower outside
corner of the glove box opening. (Fig. 5)
(21) Remove the passenger side cowl trim cover.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/COWL TRIM
COVER - REMOVAL)
(22) Disconnect the blower resistor electrical connector.
(Fig. 5)
(23) Remove the two roll down bracket bolts at the​
right cowl side panel.
(24) Disconnect the vacuum check valve and the
vacuum reservoir. (Fig. 5)
(25) Disconnect the blower motor electrical connector.
(26) Remove the four bolts at the top of the instrument
panel connecting to the cowl front panel.
(27) Roll the instrument panel rearward and
remove the wire harness from routing channel in the
rear.
(28) Disconnect the push pin fastener and position
aside the radio wire harness. Note the location of the
harness for installation.
(29) Remove the instrument panel.​
INSTALLATION​
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE
ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING
COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT
DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE
THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,
THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM
CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING
FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS
IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG
SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG
DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.​
(1) Position the instrument panel into the vehicle.
(2) Position the wire harness into the rear routing
channel and roll the instrument panel back against
the cowl.
(3) Position the radio wire harness and seat the
push pin fastener.​
NOTE: Position the speaker wires through the
speaker openings.​
(4) Install the four bolts at the top of the instrument
panel connecting to the cowl front panel and
tighten to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.).
(5) Connect the blower motor electrical connector.
(6) Connect the vacuum check valve and the vacuum
reservoir.
(7) Connect the blower resister electrical connector.​
NOTE: Do not push or pull bracket. Tighten at the​
rest position.
 

tjkj2002

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(8) Install the two roll down bracket bolts at the
right cowl side panel and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(9) Install the HVAC mounting bolt at the lower
outside corner of the glove box opening and tighten
to 6 N·m (55 in. lbs.).
(10) Install the HVAC mounting bolt above the
glove box striker.
(11) Install the passenger side trim bezel. (Refer to
23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT
PANEL PASSENGER SIDE BEZEL - INSTALLATION)
(12) Install the passenger side cowl trim cover.
(Refer to 23 - BODY/INTERIOR/COWL TRIM
COVER - INSTALLATION)
(13) Install the glove box. (Refer to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT
PANEL/GLOVE BOX - INSTALLATION)​
NOTE: Do not push or pull bracket. Tighten at the
rest position.​
(14) Install the two roll down bracket bolts at the
drivers cowl side panel and tighten to 54 N·m (40 ft.
lbs.).
(15) Install the two bolts at the bottom side of the
pedal support bracket.
(16) Install the two bolts at the front of the pedal
support bracket.
(17) Connect the electrical connector at the inner
side of the pedal support bracket.
(18) Connect the wiring harness electrical connectors
at the junction block.
(19) Connect the wire harness electrical connector
behind the drivers side cowl trim cover.
(20) Install the left cowl trim cover. (Refer to 23 -
BODY/INTERIOR/COWL TRIM COVER - INSTALLATION)
(21) Install the steering column. (Refer to 19 -
STEERING/COLUMN - INSTALLATION)
(22) Install the two HVAC mounting bolts behind
the center trim.
(23) Install the ground strap and bolt and connect
the restraint module electrical connector.
(24) Install the center support bracket and hold it
tight against the instrument panel.
(25) Tighten the lower nuts to 23 N·m (17 ft. lbs.).
(26) Tighten the upper bracket nuts to 23 N·m (17
ft. lbs.).
(27) Install the radio. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
AUDIO/RADIO - INSTALLATION)
(28) Install the floor console. (Refer to 23 - BODY/
INTERIOR/FLOOR CONSOLE - INSTALLATION)
(29) Install the speakers.
(30) Install the instrument panel top cover. (Refer
to 23 - BODY/INSTRUMENT PANEL/INSTRUMENT​
PANEL TOP COVER - INSTALLATION)
 

benji_KJ2003

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There is one reason I would like to do this. It's because I put dynamat on the flloor/door/trunk/wheel base already. That works really well, actually so well that the only noise I can hear is the engine noise !!!!!!

Can't hear the tire noise/wind noise, but the engine noise.!!!!!! Going crazy... Anyway, I have ordered dynamat from ebay. and hopefully I can finish the work within the weekend.
 

kidjedi

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Trying to remove the instrument panel cluster cover right now to replace the instrument panel bulbs (instrument panel went from dim to dark), and thought I'd throw this in... every "how to" I've seen shows torx screws in the "oh sh*t!" bars, but my '05 has 6mm hex head bolts.

The problem is, they are deeply recessed, and the hole in which they live is way smaller than any socket I have. Anybody have any trouble with this in the past? I'm wondering if I should just jam a socket in there and hope the plug still fits tights when I'm done, or if there's some secret trick.

EDIT: Turns out the bolts in the support column handle are 5.5mm. I just pushed the socket in and backed out the screw. The handle is pretty soft, so I don't anticipate much of a problem with it "bouncing back" once it's time to put things back together and put the trim plug back in.
 
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HoosierJeeper

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Can you look in there and see if they have a Philips head? My 05 has a bunch of screws that are a small hex head with a Philips head. It's in the shop now otherwise I would look. I'm pretty sure that's what holds my "oh shit bars"
 

kidjedi

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Can you look in there and see if they have a Philips head? My 05 has a bunch of screws that are a small hex head with a Philips head. It's in the shop now otherwise I would look. I'm pretty sure that's what holds my "oh shit bars"

Definitely doesn't. I gave it a couple more tries, and realized the tightness I thought was the bolt turning was just the recess gripping the outside of my socket. I switched to a 5.5mm and it back right out (and now that it's out, I can verify no Phillips or Torx). So, for those looking for the info... 5.5mm hex head bolts are holding in my panic bars to the support column in my '05 CRD Limited.
 

profdlp

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^ They are the same on the 2007 gas engine. I had to buy a set of extra-deep sockets to get my grab bars off. Nice job that you got it figured out. :favorites13:
 

Hdale85

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I recently was pulling those handles at a pull a part and found that there were 3 different types of screws, some had phillips, some had hex head bolts, and some had the torx.
 

Liberty93

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Would you happen to know what's behind the plastic pieces of dash trim very close to the windshield that would have to do with the headlights in these jeeps? You seem to know a decent bit.
 

Royy

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Trying to remove the instrument panel cluster cover right now to replace the instrument panel bulbs (instrument panel went from dim to dark), and thought I'd throw this in... every "how to" I've seen shows torx screws in the "oh sh*t!" bars, but my '05 has 6mm hex head bolts.

The problem is, they are deeply recessed, and the hole in which they live is way smaller than any socket I have. Anybody have any trouble with this in the past? I'm wondering if I should just jam a socket in there and hope the plug still fits tights when I'm done, or if there's some secret trick.

EDIT: Turns out the bolts in the support column handle are 5.5mm. I just pushed the socket in and backed out the screw. The handle is pretty soft, so I don't anticipate much of a problem with it "bouncing back" once it's time to put things back together and put the trim plug back in.

Those 5.5mm bolts are a pain indeed (5.5mm?? Someone must've been drunk when they decided on that size). When I took my dash out a while ago, it took me quite some time to find a socket that actual fit inside the small opening, only to then find out that one of the bolt heads had been completely rounded off by the previous owner or a mechanic...
First thing I did after I finally got it out was go to a junkyard and pull some of the torx head bolts out of an older KJ.
 

profdlp

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Those 5.5mm bolts are a pain indeed (5.5mm?? Someone must've been drunk when they decided on that size)...
I had to buy a special socket, which as I recall cost as much as the whole set of dinky 1/4" drive sockets I bought at HF.
 
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