HOW TO: Change Transfer Case Position Switch

Discussion in 'How To' started by Downtown, Mar 22, 2010.

  1. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    2004 Liberty 3.7L

    Part number 5083138AA

    Cost of switch from dealer $72.00

    Special tools -

    1-1/2" Socket- $19.99

    3/4 to 1/2 drive adapter - $6.99

    1/2" drive extension, 12" long - $? I had one in the toolbox






    Remove center console

    IMG_0004-1.jpg IMG_0005-1.jpg


    Remove the 4 nuts holding down the T-Case shift lever.
    Note: The shift lever is attached to the t-case via a control cable.
    IMG_0006-1.jpg


    There it is just waiting for you!!
    Note: Dirt sitting on top of your t-case can fall into the sensor hole when removed. Now is the time to brush it or blow it off.
    IMG_0007-1.jpg IMG_0008-1.jpg



    Remove the connector.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2010
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  2. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    Get the tool on there and give it a heave.
    Warning: When the sensor busted loose, The wrench(and my knuckles) hit the gear indicator bezel and it busted into 20 pieces. Be careful!!
    IMG_0014-1.jpg IMG_0015-1.jpg



    Swap the o-ring from the old to the new...
    Doesn't seem wise to me but, the new one didn't have one.
    IMG_0017-1.jpg IMG_0018-1.jpg

    Install new sensor...

    Re-assemble...
     
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  3. jnaut

    jnaut Full Access Member

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    Dude, spread this how-to far and wide. I asked about this and researched it and while everyone said you could do it, the instructions were vague and indicated that you had to 'reach up above it' from under the vehicle.

    Thanks and congrats.
     
  4. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    Thanks!

    I did the same research and I agree...

    Also, some of the things out there we not quite truthful (for replacement on 2004 KJ)

    1. IMO - imposssible to reach 'reach up above it' from under the vehicle (with any useful tool that could remove it... I tried)

    2. NOT a 10 minute job (give youself 1hr to 2hrs (4-12 beers :D))

    3. It's NOT a $20 part - I looked far and wide and the only 2 places that had it was the dealer by my house ($96.00) and the dealer by my work ($72.00) - Minneapolis/St. Paul Metro area
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2010
  5. jnaut

    jnaut Full Access Member

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    Word, when mine failed (before it mysteriously fixed itself) I reached up there and sure, I could feel it up there, but dang if I could have gotten it out. Now I know if it breaks again... and of course doesn't mysteriously fix itself, I can swap it out.
     
  6. meh_kick

    meh_kick New Member

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    I suppose you've been seing the part-time light in the dash even though the 4x4 shifter is down?

    Thanks for the write up.
     
  7. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    Yes that is correct...

    The t-case would be in 2HI with the "PART TIME" light on

    And, when in 4HI the "PART TIME" light would be off

    4LO worked fine
     
  8. sevenhelmet

    sevenhelmet Full Access Member

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    It looks like a simple push button toggle switch. Mine is obviously switching since the light goes on and off with the lever, just the opposite way. What about taking the switch out and pressing it once with your finger to "un-flip" it so it will indicate correctly? Is that a possibility, or does the switch absolutely have to be changed?

    Also, should the 4LO light be on with the transfer case lever in neutral?
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2010
  9. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    I found this -

    "The sensor consists of a five position, resistive multiplexed circuit which returns a specific resistance value to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) for each transfer case operating mode." - http://townhall.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f19a95d

    What this means is: The PCM measures how far the plunger has been pushed in and looks for 5 different values (positions).

    So... No, you won't be able to 'un-flip' it - Think of it more like a sensor

    Using the term "switch" is a little misleading... But, that's what the dealer called it. wtf.gif

    I think that something conductive got past the seals in the switch/sensor.

    Also, I am pretty sure you shouldn't see "4LO" on your cluster when in t-case neutral. This, IMO, is just another symptom of a bad t-case position switch/sensor
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2011
  10. sevenhelmet

    sevenhelmet Full Access Member

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    That makes sense- if it's one position "off", then the light would go out in 4HI because the switch "thinks" it's actually in neutral.

    Looks like I might have to buy the replacement after all.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2010
  11. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    I took it apart.
    IMG_0041-1.jpg IMG_0028-1.jpg
    IMG_0035-1.jpg IMG_0044-1.jpg

    I guess it was dirty? :confused:
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2010
  12. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    I effed up the contact fingers during disassembly
    IMG_0045-1.jpg IMG_0046-1.jpg
    IMG_0047-1.jpg IMG_0048-1.jpg
     
  13. jnaut

    jnaut Full Access Member

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    Looking at that design, I'm a little surprised it lasts at all. The pics are a little small, what seals that metal sliding contact from the outside world? Is it that red, rubber looking diaphragm?
     
  14. kb0nly

    kb0nly Full Access Member

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    Ahh... Thanks for the autopsy pics...

    Its basically selecting different resistances through the contacts, the surface mount resistors on the back of the circuit board are in series with the different contact pads. The one side is a common and the other side touches one of the pads to indicate what position its in. Most likely the computer sends 5v to the sensor and then the return voltage dropped by X amount of resistance tells the computer what has been selected.

    Neat.. Didn't know that's what was in there. You could take an ohm meter and check from the large common contact to each of the smaller pads, the resistance probably steps up or down from one end to the other. My guess the switched contacts gets worn and doesn't make good contact.
     
  15. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    If you click on the pics they should open a larger view.

    I agree... The design sucks.

    Yes, the red rubber diaphragm seals out t-case lube.

    On the other end -

    The tabs that come off the PCB just slide through holes in the plastic. So, the seal between the connectors keeps out the outside dust/dirt/mud.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2010
  16. jnaut

    jnaut Full Access Member

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    No I did click, but even at full size I was feeling ... unsatisfied... it may just be me.
     
  17. Downtown

    Downtown Full Access Member

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    That's the first time I've had a guy tell me that... :-s


    I did upload them kinda small - something like 640x4??

    If there were any that you would like to see, let me know.

    I can email or set up a photobucket thingy.
     
  18. sevenhelmet

    sevenhelmet Full Access Member

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    I finally just unplugged mine so I won't have the "PART TIME" light staring me in the face. I'll get around to tearing apart the center console eventually.
     
  19. tjkj2002

    tjkj2002 Full Access Member

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    OPERATING MODE----SENSOR RESISTANCE (ohms)

    2WD-------------------------1124-1243
    4WD PART TIME --------------650-719
    NEUTRAL(Full Time,242)--------389-431
    NEUTRAL----------------------199-221
    4WD LOW ---------------------57-64
     
  20. sevenhelmet

    sevenhelmet Full Access Member

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    Changed out the switch earlier today in about 40 minutes. The old one was binding and making a scratching noise when I pushed the plunger. The new one was smooth as butter. Glad I was able to fix it so easily.

    Thanks for the "How To" on this!