How much rattle from subwoofer

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RIPGTP1997

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I'm off from work on Wednesday so I'm going to be installing my Rockford Fosgate Sub in my Jeep. HOw much rattle will I be getting from the rear door? I do not of the funds to buy any sound deadening material at this time, so I was just wondering how it will rattle or not rattle.
 

jfortier777

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RIPGTP1997 said:
I'm off from work on Wednesday so I'm going to be installing my Rockford Fosgate Sub in my Jeep. HOw much rattle will I be getting from the rear door? I do not of the funds to buy any sound deadening material at this time, so I was just wondering how it will rattle or not rattle.

Not an inch of dynamat in my jeep and I'm still A O K at 135-140dB daily driving. (bling)


Which RF are you putting in it and what kind of box??


pics2.gif pics2.gif pics2.gif pics2.gif

What about your head unit, amp... tell me more I'm dying here. luxhello.gif
 

RIPGTP1997

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Headunit is a Kenwood KDC-MP528, Sub is a Rockforst Fosgate Stage 2 Punch In a bandpass box, amp is a Rockford Fosgate Mono 700 Watt. Keeping the stock Infiniti speakers until I have the funds to upgrade to Kappas. And i'll post pics of my new Liberty, and of the system when I am done installing it.
 

JeepJeepster

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RIPGTP1997 said:
What are you running J?

Hes running something thats way to big and shouldnt be in a jeep. \:D/ Jk miah. The rear glass will rattle some from the outside, but the libby seems to be purty solid when it comes to rattles, mine is atleast. I only have an 12in MTX with 400watts though. I feel no need to have anything more than that. 8-[
 

RIPGTP1997

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Actually, my stage 2 is underpowered. It is rated to handle a peak 1200 watts.....Which way do u have your sub facing, towards the rear, upwards. towards the driver?
 

JeepJeepster

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Haha, I was just joking around Miah. Your box is insanely huge!

I love that pic though!

Not that it matters with my little set-up, but mine is facing back.

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jfortier777

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Jeepster I think I've told you already but I REALLY like the sledgehammer boxes.

I was just waiting for an excuse to use that pic, lol. It kills me.
 

Bennett

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When I did have it installed it would just rattle the back window... It's pretty darn solid.

Bennett
 

JeepJeepster

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jfortier777 said:
Jeepster I think I've told you already but I REALLY like the sledgehammer boxes.

I was just waiting for an excuse to use that pic, lol. It kills me.

I thought you said something about it, but I couldnt remember. It seems to do REALLY good for what Ive got in it. I think the box with sub was around $350 and I bought a used Referb amp for $150 from mikes. I was trilled at how good it sounded for only $500. I really need a cap though, the headlights dim when I turn everything on and crank it. After all my lights are on, Im pulling around 28 amps which isnt that much since I have a 136amp alternator and a optima red top. Its around $100 for a cap and Ive got better things to spend money on. When Im bumpin it at night, I just turn everything off but my headlights. 8-[
 

RIPGTP1997

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Jeepjeester, I bought my 1 Farad Cap. off of ebay for 30 bucks. Its a realy easy install, instead of running the power cable to the amp, you run it to the Cap., then a seperate cable from the cap. to the amp. You ground the cap. Make sure ur battery is unplugged or you'll blow your fuse(life lesson I learned). Hook everything up first, rehook up the battery, n bam, your cap. is charged and ready to go.
 

JeepJeepster

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The one cap i installed, I had to use a resistor to slowly charge the cap, then hook the battery up. Thats why your fuse blew.

Thanks though! Ill keep my eye out/go look right now.
 

Bennett

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I always filled my cap up with a 2amp battery charger... Worked pretty good and no sparks.

Bennett
 

jfortier777

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jeepjeepster said:
jfortier777 said:
Jeepster I think I've told you already but I REALLY like the sledgehammer boxes.

I was just waiting for an excuse to use that pic, lol. It kills me.

I thought you said something about it, but I couldnt remember. It seems to do REALLY good for what Ive got in it. I think the box with sub was around $350 and I bought a used Referb amp for $150 from mikes. I was trilled at how good it sounded for only $500. I really need a cap though, the headlights dim when I turn everything on and crank it. After all my lights are on, Im pulling around 28 amps which isnt that much since I have a 136amp alternator and a optima red top. Its around $100 for a cap and Ive got better things to spend money on. When Im bumpin it at night, I just turn everything off but my headlights. 8-[

Cap wont help ya... much

To explain it briefly, the usage of a cap in recent years can be described as "old habits die hard".

They use to be used back in the earlier years when car audio became popular for the sake of better powering the amp.

In short, the amp got power faster than if it drew off of the battery. This would result in a cleaner, sharper, and overall much more desirable sound.

Eventually amp MFGs caught on. For the last 5 years at least amp MFGs include the necessary capacitors inside of the amp. This is done by placing multiple smaller capacitors inside and wiring them in parallel. Adding more capacitance its always better, but keep in mind that in comparison; your battery has billions of farads of capacitance, the only advantage that the capacitor has over a battery is the rate of discharge.

Now if you throw an Optima in the equation, the rate of discarge rises awsomely from that of a standard battery, and an aftermarket capacitor becomes all that much more useless.

To answer the inevitable question that I am sure you are wondering. (Then why to people still use them, in shows and what not.)

That question has multiple answers which differ from person to person.
Here are a few.

-Lied to by the shop who set it up, and convinced it was needed.

-Legitimately know what they are doing and cant afford a BATcap so they are using multiple capacitors to squeeze out that last 10th of a dB while benchmarking.

-Like the look of it.

-A placebo that makes them feel better about the drain on their power system.

Its important to realize also the though the rate of discharge is substantially higher than that of a standard car battery; the rate of charge is just as fast. So as soon as that cap is empty, which is a matter of milliseconds and even faster with more power draw, it is going to suck as MUCH power as it can out of your battery until its full, and it will do it faster than your battery can manage and your lights will just dim a few milliseconds off beat from the bass line.

In conclusion (WTF am I writing a report or something), a capacitor will help you with your power draw problem, but as for the actual results...
You will have to look VERY closely to see any difference. (and yes your lights will still dim)
If you feel possesed to blow $100 then for 40 more you can buy a brand new yellow top and double the discharge rate of the power source in your vehicle.

*I know you said you had no immediate intention to buy one but I thought I would rescue you before you fell into the same hole so many people do.*


!!!The above statements are my personal opinions derived from factual specifications of modern car audio amplification equipment. Should you choose to refute any of the above statements. Then we will have to joust for a winner!!!



BatCap - A miniature battery with hundreds of farads of capacitance and a discharge rate equal to that of a capacitor.
 

JeepJeepster

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Ive heard people talk about that many times Miah. My dad went to school to be an electrical engineer, and I have many friends that are in that field, so I know all about electricity. I understand that todays amps have many small capacitors in them to help the draw, but a bigger cap still helps with the sudden voltage drop from subs. I can get one off ebay for $20, I think Ill go ahead and do that since I can get it for cheap. Only if the bid doesnt go up.

Miah, what do you plan to do in college? Or do you plan to go to college? 8-[
 

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