HELP with rear drum brake adjuster

[metalmoto]

I was all set to replace the rear brakes on my "02" this weekend. Got everything I thought I would need. New brake shoes, and hardware kit. But I was not expecting to find them so very rusty, and it appears they were not working at all! The drum came off easily. But the first thing I noticed, was the starwheel adjuster was rusted and seized solid! A quick check on the internet, and no auto parts store nearby has this part. "Not Available", are you kidding me? So I without removing anything else. I pulled the adjuster out, and had it soaking in kroil (penetrating oil) overnight. With some fighting, I was able to get the screw side loose and apart. But the other end, was rusted solid! Knowing that I need the Jeep to get me to work on Tuesday. I decided to put the seized adjuster back in, until I can locate a replacement. But now I can't get the drum back on, with the adjuster installed! What happened? What did I do to cause this? I tried pushing the pistons back into the brake cylinder. But they wont move. I don't want to take the old brakes off yet. Just want to put it back together, and tackle it again, when I get new brake adjusters. Please help ASAP! Is it safe to drive without the brake adjuster in place? It's snowing outside here now... Thanks in advance!

 

[ltd02]

You can get the adjusters here:

Rear Drum Brake - Liberty KJ | Crown Automotive Sales Co

They aren't easy to find except at a dealer. Not sure why the old stuff won't go back on. You do have the stuff on the correct sides right? I always do one side at a time so I have the other as reference. If the pistons won't go back into the wheel cylinders, maybe open the bleed screw and try it?

Come to think of it, I'm not really sure what you mean by the screw side and the other side of the adjuster. There are just two pieces. What piece is stuck? Maybe a pic would help.

Also, check that the ebrake isn't partially engaged.

 

[CactusJacked]

You couldn't get it back together because the new shoes are thicker than the worn out ones, the adjuster needs to be cranked back in to compensate. Have you tried heating the hell out of it with a blow torch? I've freed up many badly rusted adjusters with penetrating oil and heat.

 

[Hockeygoon]

You couldn't get it back together because the new shoes are thicker than the worn out ones, the adjuster needs to be cranked back in to compensate. Have you tried heating the hell out of it with a blow torch? I've freed up many badly rusted adjusters with penetrating oil and heat.

If you get it to work using the above methods I would only put it back in temporarily. Once its rusted and froze that bad it will again in short order.

 

[CactusJacked]

Guess I should have elaborated on the rest of my procedure. Once freed up, I dismantle the parts and clean them on the wire wheel till they shine again and work like new, then reassemble using anti-seize. New parts are nice if and when you can get them, but they too will rust just the same.

 

[LibertyTC]

If overall things on rear brakes are that bad, it may also be best to replace the cylinders, while you are there as well! Bleed, with new fluid is always good too.
Please feel free to post a few photos metalmoto.

When a chuck of that rock salt get stuck somewhere you know what happens next!!
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What really bugs me is how much salt they throw in winter, even after a light snowfall onto the roadways!
It is not just the vehicles that rust it is bridges and infrastructure that deteriorates as well.
Here they finally decided to spray with tanks, the sodium chlorides, and then use a sand mix.
Still you have to power wash the Jeep often, especially underneath, and spend hours in rust protecting come spring.

 

[metalmoto]

Now that I found the adjusters seized, I ordered new ones, actually the whole kit, for both sides. The shoes themselves are not too bad. I didn't even take the shoes off yet, just the adjuster. I figured I wait to get the adjuster kit, then replace the shoes, do everything at once! I was able to get the side with the screw to move, it's the other end of it, with just the small free spinning end, that wont move. It's like rusted solid. I was going to try navel jelly next. It looks like I'll have to take the shoes off, and try pushing the pistons of the wheel cylinder back in. They should just go back in correct? Not sure how to attach a picture here.

 

[ltd02]

Now that I found the adjusters seized, I ordered new ones, actually the whole kit, for both sides. The shoes themselves are not too bad. I didn't even take the shoes off yet, just the adjuster. I figured I wait to get the adjuster kit, then replace the shoes, do everything at once! I was able to get the side with the screw to move, it's the other end of it, with just the small free spinning end, that wont move. It's like rusted solid.

I get what you mean now. When I did mine last year I changed everything but the adjusters. All hardware, shoes, drums, both wheel cylinders and hardlines back to the split on top of the diff. I remember the one adjuster was real rough but I was able to get it all freed up.

It looks like I'll have to take the shoes off, and try pushing the pistons of the wheel cylinder back in. They should just go back in correct?

They should go back in. That's what they do. I'd think it would be easier to just push in on the shoes to get them to go. Maybe loosen the bleed screw on the wheel cylinder and see if it helps. You'll probably be bleeding the system anyway while you are there. If you still can't get them to go back in I'd replace both wheel cylinders. Especially if they are original.

 

[metalmoto]

I might as well replace the wheel cylinders, and do it right, as someone said... There is also the rubber line going from the body, to the rear axle, that looks pretty bad! The front rubber lines just crumbled in my hands, when I went to replace the front brakes... And the car dealer got it state inspected (required by law) and yearly. Just before I bought it a few months ago? Go Figure?

 

[LibertyTC]

It is a very good idea to replace the wheel cylinders as I mentioned.
The Jeep is now 14 years old,and it is good you are doing the work!
Often as you inspect things, you find further items required, to bring the jeep up to speed!
It is probably the rear axle vent line that is crumbling.
Small things can get overlook at time of inspection, if they just "look" at it.

 

[Hockeygoon]

Guess I should have elaborated on the rest of my procedure. Once freed up, I dismantle the parts and clean them on the wire wheel till they shine again and work like new, then reassemble using anti-seize. New parts are nice if and when you can get them, but they too will rust just the same.

The new parts usually have zinc coating (however thin) that will resist rusting for a while - rusted parts that have been wire wheeled will start rusting during assembly from the oil left from your fingerprints. They will not "rust just the same".

 

[ltd02]

I might as well replace the wheel cylinders, and do it right, as someone said...

Be prepared. When I did mine the fittings on the hardline ends were frozen and wouldn't spin to disconnect from the wheel cylinders. They have some sort of plastic coating on them. I just cut them and replaced the hardlines back to the T on the diff.

 

[metalmoto]

You were correct

Be prepared. When I did mine the fittings on the hardline ends were frozen and wouldn't spin to disconnect from the wheel cylinders. They have some sort of plastic coating on them. I just cut them and replaced the hardlines back to the T on the diff.

Just as you said, the brake like broke off at the wheel cylinder. I bought all new hardware, and wheel cylinders. I replaced everything, but still can't get the drums back on! Very little rust ridge on the drums...So I don't think that's the problem. I haven't even replaced the brake line yet! Bleed screw is open. Only thing else I can think of is the emergency brake cable. I don't really want to mess with it... But when I first got the Jeep, I noticed someone messed with center console, and it wasn't put back on right. And when I took it apart, to see what way wrong, It looked like someone might of tightened the emergency brake cable in there. It seems unlikely, because it didn't hardly hold the Jeep anyway!

Besides the drum came off easily...

I took loads of pictures, to make sure I put it all back together right.

I have only been working on the left side wheel so far! This is driving me nuts!

I guess I take the console apart, and try loosening the emergency brake cable, otherwise... I'm lost as what to try next.

 

[ltd02]

Just as you said, the brake like broke off at the wheel cylinder. I bought all new hardware, and wheel cylinders. I replaced everything, but still can't get the drums back on! Very little rust ridge on the drums...So I don't think that's the problem. I haven't even replaced the brake line yet! Bleed screw is open. Only thing else I can think of is the emergency brake cable. I don't really want to mess with it... But when I first got the Jeep, I noticed someone messed with center console, and it wasn't put back on right. And when I took it apart, to see what way wrong, It looked like someone might of tightened the emergency brake cable in there. It seems unlikely, because it didn't hardly hold the Jeep anyway!

Besides the drum came off easily...

I took loads of pictures, to make sure I put it all back together right.

I have only been working on the left side wheel so far! This is driving me nuts!

I guess I take the console apart, and try loosening the emergency brake cable, otherwise... I'm lost as what to try next.

I just took the fitting from the end of the brakeline with me to Napa to make sure I got the correct end fittings and guesstimated the length. The ones I got bent super easy so I just used the old line as a pattern and bent accordingly.

E brake does sound like a possibility. The Ebrake on my pickup is the same way. It hangs up somewhere and when I changed the entire setup back there the new drums were a ****** to get on, even with the adjuster backed all the way out. Do the top notches in the shoes meet the post at the top?

 

[metalmoto]

Need your help Please

I get what you mean now. When I did mine last year I changed everything but the adjusters. All hardware, shoes, drums, both wheel cylinders and hardlines back to the split on top of the diff. I remember the one adjuster was real rough but I was able to get it all freed up.



They should go back in. That's what they do. I'd think it would be easier to just push in on the shoes to get them to go. Maybe loosen the bleed screw on the wheel cylinder and see if it helps. You'll probably be bleeding the system anyway while you are there. If you still can't get them to go back in I'd replace both wheel cylinders. Especially if they are original.

OK, I brake shoes back on the left side anyway. Stupid mistake on my part.
I just a new flex hose, going to the axle. Couldn't get it local, had to buy it online and got it today. The original is so rusted, looks like it will break any day now. I also got a new hard line for the left side. I was only able to get a straight line, with fittings. And it's a about 8 inches too long. How did you do it? Did you bend the line yourself, and just make it work? I got the Jeep jacked up, with stands under the axle at both ends, as I needed more room to work and see everything. Soaked all the fittings with penetrating oil. I just don't know where to start? I'd like to replace the flex line first, so I can bleed it all, once I got it back together. What is the hose extra hose going to the block do? Looks like it goes to the gas tank or something? Not a problem, except I'll have to cut that hose, and use a aviator clamp, because it's clamp is crimped on. I can see this is going to take me a few days, after work, to get done. I guess I'll start by seeing if I can get all the lines loose, without them breaking, like the first one! Please send me your suggestions, as this is the first time I ever had to do this before... Thanks in advance!

 

[ltd02]

OK, I brake shoes back on the left side anyway. Stupid mistake on my part.
I just a new flex hose, going to the axle. Couldn't get it local, had to buy it online and got it today. The original is so rusted, looks like it will break any day now. I also got a new hard line for the left side. I was only able to get a straight line, with fittings. And it's a about 8 inches too long. How did you do it? Did you bend the line yourself, and just make it work? I got the Jeep jacked up, with stands under the axle at both ends, as I needed more room to work and see everything. Soaked all the fittings with penetrating oil. I just don't know where to start? I'd like to replace the flex line first, so I can bleed it all, once I got it back together. What is the hose extra hose going to the block do? Looks like it goes to the gas tank or something? Not a problem, except I'll have to cut that hose, and use a aviator clamp, because it's clamp is crimped on. I can see this is going to take me a few days, after work, to get done. I guess I'll start by seeing if I can get all the lines loose, without them breaking, like the first one! Please send me your suggestions, as this is the first time I ever had to do this before... Thanks in advance!

Check post 14. I used the old line as a pattern and bent the new straight one. I had some extra near the wheel too, so I made a small loop behind the axle near the point where it went up to the wheel cylinder. The loop is in the normal path of the hardline and very well protected. I didn't replace that flex line in the rear. That is one that comes from the front of the vehicle to the T on top of the diff, and branches. I don't know where it originates. Mine was okay, as far as I could see, but the two hardlines were pretty decent but fused to the wheel cylinders. Not sure what the extra hose is you mentioned. Should only be the two hardlines and the flex at the T. Are you looking at the diff vent tube by chance?

 

[metalmoto]

I figured out what you meant by the "diff vent hose" when I replaced the flex line, attached to the axle. Strange how they used the differential vent hose, to mount the brake line "block" coupler to the axle... The end of the vent hose, is just clipped up under the body, and mine just has a bolt screwed into the end of the hose. Shouldn't there be some kind of one way valve on the hose, not just a bolt screwed into the end?

 

[ltd02]

I figured out what you meant by the "diff vent hose" when I replaced the flex line, attached to the axle. Strange how they used the differential vent hose, to mount the brake line "block" coupler to the axle... The end of the vent hose, is just clipped up under the body, and mine just has a bolt screwed into the end of the hose. Shouldn't there be some kind of one way valve on the hose, not just a bolt screwed into the end?

Seems like there should be some type of protective end to it. Wonder if it fell or broke off. I won't get a chance to check mine until next weekend, but never followed mine to the very end. Seems like a bolt in the end would defeat the purpose. :shrug:

 

[metalmoto]

Brake line fittings Metric or American?

(banghead) I've spent two weeks replacing my rear drum brakes. Busted the left brake line, going to the block mounted on the axle. And I also replaced the flex line attached to the axle. Finally got it all done today. But have a leak with the new line, left side, where it attaches block on the axle. The guy at the auto parts store said, he was sure it was an American thread on the fittings. But a 12mm wrench fit perfect on the old fittings. So I bought 2 new lines, one american and one metric. The american fittings seemed to screw in just fine. So I used that line. But when I looked up the wheel cylinder and flex line, they both said they were M10 X1 which is metric. Are they metric or American threads?
The american fitting screwed into both ends fine, but I got this leak at the block. So now I'm thinking they are metric threads!
PLEASE HELP!

 

[ltd02]

(banghead) I've spent two weeks replacing my rear drum brakes. Busted the left brake line, going to the block mounted on the axle. And I also replaced the flex line attached to the axle. Finally got it all done today. But have a leak with the new line, left side, where it attaches block on the axle. The guy at the auto parts store said, he was sure it was an American thread on the fittings. But a 12mm wrench fit perfect on the old fittings. So I bought 2 new lines, one american and one metric. The american fittings seemed to screw in just fine. So I used that line. But when I looked up the wheel cylinder and flex line, they both said they were M10 X1 which is metric. Are they metric or American threads?
The american fitting screwed into both ends fine, but I got this leak at the block. So now I'm thinking they are metric threads!
PLEASE HELP!

I couldn't find the tag or receipt from my lines but I thought they were 3/8-24. When I looked up the wheel cylinders I used they also said m10x1. They should be the inverted flare type ends I think. Did you try to thread the metric in by hand? I replaced mine a few years ago and I took the old fitting that I cut off with me and lined up the threads before I purchased.