got juice?

[fasto82]

i have finishe dwith my interior installations for the most part.
my libby now sports a total of 3 batteries ( the stock one under the hood, a deep cycle dry cell under the passenger seat, and a deep cycle dry cell in the cargo area) all run in parallel. I never will have to worry about killing the battry now lol.

They are powering a 720 watt rms amplifier and 2 12" subs and a 1500 watt inverter. i modified the inverter a little bit as well. i relocated the power switch and one of the outlets from it to inside the center console. I am very shocked at how easy the liberty is to work on and take apart. everything is simple.

the inverter will be powering a laptop on long road trips as well as on a few occasions, a PS2, 17" LCD monitor and a 2.1 channel surround system. I had this all setup in the trunk of a neon before i traded it in for the libby. now one year later i finally am putting it all to good use again.

 

[jfortier777]

the inverter will be powering a laptop on long road trips as well as on a few occasions, a PS2, 17" LCD monitor and a 2.1 channel surround system. I had this all setup in the trunk of a neon before i traded it in for the libby. now one year later i finally am putting it all to good use again.

Laptop - 90W

PS2 - 45W

17" Monitor - 40W

2.1 surround?! Why would you want to run that in a vehicle that has a fantastic stock speaker setup.

Anyway, my point being. What you have arranged there is not only total overkill; but also, pretty wastefull. Also, unless you have that inverter maxed out, you do not need 3 batteries.
With everything on that you've listed you would barely make the cutoff for needing a second battery.

You could easily run those first three out of your cigerette plug or hardwire a tiny 300watt inverter.

The last effective usage of a high power inverter I've seen was a 2000 watt in a van, that could run 4 full size desktop computers and CRT monitors and a couple laptops. We set it up so we could have mobile lan parties back in high school.

 

[Bennett]

ahah that's awesome. 3 Batteries!! Heck you could go camping and bring a microwave... =D>

I still need to finish my dual optima yellow top battery setup. Just haven't had time to run the cables and install the solenoid... The other optima is sitting in the garage collecting dust. I actually built a battery tray out of steal that sits on the passenger side in place of the old stock air box. I plan on using threaded rod to hold the battery down all nice and tight once I get it in.

Did you get a pure sine wave inverter?


Bennett

 

[fasto82]

actually i forget the name of the inverter. i will have to check it out later today and get back to you on it. jfortier777, you obviously have skipped past the part of me saying i have a 700 watt sound system that is capable of pounding out 140+ dB. that amp draws a lot of power. therefore the 3rd battery is necessary especially if i have a few electronic devices running off of the inverter and have my stereo up loud. the 2.1 chaNNEL surround system is there because in my neon when i ran the audio from the PS2 to the stereo of the car it picked up a lot of interference and brought nothing but static through the speakers. after trying everything to resolve that and having nothing work i just broke down and bought the cheap surround system for $50 and it worked beautifully. i don't have $50 to spend right now on a satellite radio receiver to hook up to my stereo to act as the input device for audio so i will just stick with the 2.1 channel. Now when Madden 2007 comes out and my friends and i get together and play i can bring the 5th tv and we can play in my libby. we usually get huge madden tournaments going all the time. its not surprising to have 4 tvs and ps2's going with a game of madden on each at the same time. one more month baby. and i wonder if the inverter would be able to handle a microwave lol!

 

[jfortier777]

actually i forget the name of the inverter. i will have to check it out later today and get back to you on it. jfortier777, you obviously have skipped past the part of me saying i have a 700 watt sound system that is capable of pounding out 140+ dB.

WOW! What speakers are they? Enclosure? Amp?

140+ is something astounding for only 700RMS.

Do you have any proof of that? (Because I do not believe it.)

I was only able to squeeze out 145.8 with 1400RMS, in a 6cu ft box and a 15" kicker L7. heres my proof

700w rms is not enough power to justify a 3rd battery; but like I said with the inverter also, you just barely slide over the cutoff for needing a 2nd battery.
Then again if you want the ability to run the system at full for 4+ hours without turning on the vehicle than 3 batteries will be pretty damn handy.
Or if you are going to run lots of appliances while camping or something.

Basically more batteries is always goign to increase your options for doing thigns with the engine off. But your stock alternator can manage just fine spitting out 120A (or 160A for people with renegades), and since the amp is only pulling 70A, the laptop and PS2 and what not wont pull too much more. maybe 10-15A on the very generous side. That still leaves you with enough power to run the jeep just fine.

I wonder if the PS2 sound being full of static has to do with the ground loop? Have you tried the whole setup in the jeep through the head unit yet?

 

[2003KJ]

I'm not meaning to hijack this thread but i've got to get something off my chest. Miah, why does it always seem like you're argueing with somebody?

 

[jfortier777]

I'm not meaning to hijack this thread but i've got to get something off my chest. Miah, why does it always seem like you're argueing with somebody?

Sorry. Its just a part of my personality to seek to most accurate infromation possible. The main reason for this is that I am never satisfied unless I have a full explanation of the side of the discussion that I either, do not understand, or believe is wrong. It often leads me into unpleasant discussions/arguements. I usually notice before I do it, but sometimes I argue/discuss quite ferociously.

In this case (got juics thread) I was mistaken; Bennett provided a source for me to inform myself, and I admitted my defeat. I consider that to be a successful discussion/arguement , because I ended up learning something.

I realize that the discussion in the other thread with you may have offended you, so if that is that case, you have my apology.

However, I find the distribution of misinformation to be highly offensive, so if it is within the boundries of my knowledge I will attempt to provide more accurate information, or at the least contest the incorrect point. Sometimes I make mistakes, and I will always admitt my wrong doing if that is the case.

Here is an analogy that will explain my intentions more clearly.

"If you saw a blind friend walking towards the end of a cliff and leading others behind him, would you not yell out to him and tell him to stop? That friend may later tell you he was heading towards a glass bridge that you could not see; but it is better that you questioned him for the chance of him leading himself and others to their demise."

 

[2003KJ]

I'm not meaning to hijack this thread but i've got to get something off my chest. Miah, why does it always seem like you're argueing with somebody?

Sorry. Its just a part of my personality to seek to most accurate infromation possible. The main reason for this is that I am never satisfied unless I have a full explanation of the side of the discussion that I either, do not understand, or believe is wrong. It often leads me into unpleasant discussions/arguements. I usually notice before I do it, but sometimes I argue/discuss quite ferociously.

In this case (got juics thread) I was mistaken; Bennett provided a source for me to inform myself, and I admitted my defeat. I consider that to be a successful discussion/arguement , because I ended up learning something.

I realize that the discussion in the other thread with you may have offended you, so if that is that case, you have my apology.

However, I find the distribution of misinformation to be highly offensive, so if it is within the boundries of my knowledge I will attempt to provide more accurate information, or at the least contest the incorrect point. Sometimes I make mistakes, and I will always admitt my wrong doing if that is the case.

Here is an analogy that will explain my intentions more clearly.

"If you saw a blind friend walking towards the end of a cliff and leading others behind him, would you not yell out to him and tell him to stop? That friend may later tell you he was heading towards a glass bridge that you could not see; but it is better that you questioned him for the chance of him leading himself and others to their demise."

I also find the distribution of misinformation to be bad, but people do make mistakes. Nobody is perfect. What ticked me off in the other thread was that it seemed as though your opinion, and ONLY your opinion was right, and to hell with everyone else. And more so recently it always seems that you've got an arguement going with somebody in a thread.

 

[fasto82]

[quote="jfortier777WOW! What speakers are they? Enclosure? Amp?

140+ is something astounding for only 700RMS.

Do you have any proof of that? (Because I do not believe it.)

I was only able to squeeze out 145.8 with 1400RMS, in a 6cu ft box and a 15" kicker L7. heres my proof

[/quote]

My amp is the Mmats D100 i believe is the model number. Its a one channel class d competition sub amp. My subs are 2 12 inch Memphis M-Class subs. my proof of hitting 142 was in my neon at a car show when i had it hooked up to the spl meter there. funny thing is that one of the voice coils on one of the subs was broken. i havent gotten a chance to test it in the libby.
It's enclosed in your everyday normal sealed box. Just remember 1 15" sub doesnt always beat out 2 12's. i know someone who has a 10" alpine sub and i can't remember the amp but he designed his own box and is able to achieve 150+ dB. it's unbelievable, but very true.

Now where exactly did you place the mic? on top of the passenger side
dash? i cant remember 100% but i believe that's the place to put the mic in order to get the best SPL readings. and also in the video you never reset the meter before your last run like you did before the 2nd one. don't you need to reset it in order for it to take a new reading? if so you could've gotten a higher reading and not know it from that clip. and don't forget to take into account every meter has a margin of error of +or- 1-2dB.

 

[jfortier777]

My amp is the Mmats D100 i believe is the model number. Its a one channel class d competition sub amp.

I am having a lot of troubel locating accurate information on that amp. It seems that the company has fallen off the map, or just has no website. I know of it and have seen them (little white one I believe), but I cannot tell if the RMS rating of 600W is rated at 14.4V or 12V, only CES certified amps are rated at 12V, many companies tend to inflate their values by rating at 14.4V.
Assuming your drivers are both the DVC at 4 Ohms models from below, you could squeeze the full 600Watts from it wiring them all in parallel, and maybe a few more on a burp.

My subs are 2 12 inch Memphis M-Class subs.

These are the M1-12" Memphis drivers and at 300rms I would assume they are the ones you used. I do not believe that in any situation with an off-the-shelf box these could hit the 140 mark.
Memphis makes really good quality subs but with 300 watts going into each one, its just not likely.
I am not saying you didnt do it. But Some people have a tendancy to unknowingly increases the numbers they have gained over time, unless of course they have a trophy or photo or some other piece of evidence to remind them of the correct number.

Just remember 1 15" sub doesnt always beat out 2 12's.

I did not claim that 1 15" will always beat anything, you are insinuating that on your own. Mine will beat 90% of the 2 12" combos out there but if someone were to pull up with 2 w7 12's I would get b-slapped across a parking lot(provided they were in a custom box). Also 2 12"L7s in a good box could smoke me. Increasing the amount of drivers only amounts to minimal SPL increases. The extra cone area moving is nice and helps alot, but it also means you need lots more power to push them all the way. On that note most people can beat 2 12s with a single 12 of the same model when putting it into a custom enclosure and running it with the right amount of power(provided the 2 12's are not in a custom box also).

i know someone who has a 10" alpine sub and i can't remember the amp but he designed his own box and is able to achieve 150+ dB. it's unbelievable, but very true.

As long as its this one and he had a box built specifically for it and put a 3000watt amp on it, I would have no problem believing it. In the same sense the 10" solox would score WAY WAY higher than even that alpine 10"

Now where exactly did you place the mic? on top of the passenger side dash? i cant remember 100% but i believe that's the place to put the mic in order to get the best SPL readings.

Its on the center of the dash. As far as a "Best place" to put the mic, there isnt one, because the dynamics of every vehicle are different. In my case, I had just bought it and slapped it right on the center because that was to easiest place to put it.
In competition class systems the locations of the mic is predetermined by the official judges and the high class builders engineer the box and surrounding materials to guide as much spl to the mic location as possible.

and also in the video you never reset the meter before your last run like you did before the 2nd one. don't you need to reset it in order for it to take a new reading? if so you could've gotten a higher reading and not know it from that clip.

While in "max" mode the meter will continuously test the SPL and if it reaches an amount higher than the one listed it will display it and hold it. It does not need to be reset. The reason I changed it midway is because while in AVG mode it only displays an instantaneous average and doesn't hold a number for you to see after.

and don't forget to take into account every meter has a margin of error of +or- 1-2dB.

That is not true. The margin of error is much more variable than that, and temperature and humidity also need to be accounted for.

The term-lab ($1500+, and the one used at all competitions) is the only meter that can claim to have an accuracy within 1-2 db all other meters depending on quality increase that range. The meter I used is supposedly deathly close to the termlab.