Gas filler splashing back
- Thread starter MarkJ
- Start date
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Go for it rcjohnson. I've got too many other things to do at the moment and I'm thinking of just taking everything off for a while.
Thanks for the offer Leeann I do appreciate it.
Okey-dokey.
Why doesn't anyone in Cleveland have any spare cool stuff? :icon_twisted: :emotions34: :gr_grin:
All rusted away and fell off going past West Side Market:shrug::icon_lol:
or passing by Slyman's Deli
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
We'll be expecting a detailed write-up with pictures......providing it works of course! 
This is exactly my plan. Great writeup. I will add photos to his writeup as soon as I do it. I have the GM hose and was going to this weekend, but I slipped and landed on the steel rail of my boat trailer and was in emergency last night getting xrays for cracked ribs. Pretty painful to do auto work right now...
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
Oh man, that *****!
ol-flattop
Full Access Member
Funny I didn't see this before. I've been trying to figure out how to fix this issue since I bought my KJ last year, and it looks like Mark and I are barking up the same tree, and now at about the same stage in preparing the fix (see other thread), although I'm glad to be delayed for my own reasons, not cracked ribs.:doh2:
It seems like there's a bit of controversy (or what passes for controversy among the lovely KJ drivers here:icon_lol over the way to fix, potential to fix, nature of, and even existence of the problem! I'm hoping that between Mark and me (and profdlp, if he jumps on board), we can come up with a definitive answer and guide for those experiencing this issue.
For the past year, I've been doing the same thing as Leeann - estimating how much gas it will take to fill my tank, then slowing the pump down for the last 2 gallons or so. It works, but it takes more time, and if my estimate is too high...well, I end up paying for fuel that does nothing but eat my paint and then drip onto the ground. I usually guess accurately enough, but I still screw it up once in a while, and like Mark I don't particularly care for the idea of putting that responsibility and risk on my wife or anyone else.
For the record, I found my GM hose 15131046 on ebay for 25.23 shipped. That's the best price I've seen, but there were some other sellers and sites close to it, for anyone who's willing to spend a few extra minutes to save a few bucks.
It seems like there's a bit of controversy (or what passes for controversy among the lovely KJ drivers here:icon_lol
over the way to fix, potential to fix, nature of, and even existence of the problem! I'm hoping that between Mark and me (and profdlp, if he jumps on board), we can come up with a definitive answer and guide for those experiencing this issue.For the past year, I've been doing the same thing as Leeann - estimating how much gas it will take to fill my tank, then slowing the pump down for the last 2 gallons or so. It works, but it takes more time, and if my estimate is too high...well, I end up paying for fuel that does nothing but eat my paint and then drip onto the ground. I usually guess accurately enough, but I still screw it up once in a while, and like Mark I don't particularly care for the idea of putting that responsibility and risk on my wife or anyone else.
For the record, I found my GM hose 15131046 on ebay for 25.23 shipped. That's the best price I've seen, but there were some other sellers and sites close to it, for anyone who's willing to spend a few extra minutes to save a few bucks.
Not sure if I referenced this on this thread... This is the guy who has the great write-up on the fuel burp/splashback fix. I intend to add photos to the mix as soon as my ribs are well done (gotta get a wearable air bag).
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/fix-fuel-burp-issue-2006-liberty-56045/#post630683
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/fix-fuel-burp-issue-2006-liberty-56045/#post630683
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
Last edited:
OK, so cracked ribs be damned. I got under the libby this afternoon to adjust the e-brakes a bit and looked at starting to add the GM valve to my filler hose to stop the splash back. I stopped when I saw the fuel tank skid plate and the hitch and realized that I would have to remove both to start this venture. As it was, I strained the ole ribs just doing the brake adjust. Not sure I want to tackle the fuel hose till Spring. My garage is ccccold and I just don't feel up to rolling around on the floor taking all those rusted bolts off just yet. The cold weather doesn't make working with that stiff hose any easier as well. It looks like once I remove the factory gas tank skid plate (substantial piece of steel) I should have good access to the hose/tank junction maybe even without removing the inner fender (but I do have the plastic rivets and tool just in case). If we happen get a late season heat wave I will take pictures as I do it.
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ol-flattop
Full Access Member
Finally fixed the problem, everyone! I posted a full write-up in the how-to section.
Mark, when you get around to this, if you have anything to add or correct, including additional or better pics, let me know or post it in the how-to thread, and I'll update it. In the meantime, take it easy on those ribs! :gr_grin:
Thanks again to everyone here who has contributed info and advice for the fix. I hope the issue is finally put to rest!
Mark, when you get around to this, if you have anything to add or correct, including additional or better pics, let me know or post it in the how-to thread, and I'll update it. In the meantime, take it easy on those ribs! :gr_grin:
Thanks again to everyone here who has contributed info and advice for the fix. I hope the issue is finally put to rest!
OK, I am resurrecting this because the fuel pump just went out on my daughter's KJ. I currently have the hitch and skid plate off and am trying to coax the filler hose off the tank so I can drop it to replace the fuel module in the tank. I figure I may as well install the GM flapper valve inside the Jeep hose while I have it off. I will report back how it all works out.
nullptr
Full Access Member
Good luck! If I may suggest using liberal amounts of WD40 when slipping the valve into the hose? It made it a lot easier.
Thanks I will use WD40. For what it's worth, I find myself doing this now because of a fuel pump failure. Our Lib has around 180k miles so I am replacing the entire assembly inside the tank (called fuel module). Auto parts stores around here (NY) wanted $379 for the module. I checked Rock Auto and bought one for $138 and added $40 for next day shipping. Another point - our Jeep is a 2005 Liberty Renegade and it does NOT have the little fuel tank access door under the carpet in back.
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
If you think the Liberty is fun, try changing a pump on a 3rd or 4th gen Camaro, I've had both. Remove the rear exhaust, tank shield, rearend panhard bar and cross link, disconnect the shocks, raise the rear body a couple feet in the air, lower the rearend, remove the right side coil spring, and drop/turn the tank a certain angle like a contortionist. An alternate way for those is to cut an access opening through the floor, which I've done, then made a new cover and seal & screw it in place. If my Liberty didn't have an access panel, I'd scope out making one as an alternative.
