ESP/BAS and AIR BAG dash light on after battery went dead.

[t_bois]

This all occurred after I started troubleshooting a cigarette lighter problem. I left the key in the ignition in the on position overnight. The next day, the battery was dead as could be.

I jump started it; immediately the dash displayed both ESP/BAS and AIR BAG lights. The only code that I can pull is C2202-ORIGINAL VIN MISMATCH/MISSING. After searching a fair number of websites, I’ve come to the conclusion that I need to have a number of modules flashed.

Has anyone else had this type of problem, and is there another way to get this fixed without having to visit the dealer?

The jeep seems to run fine and the ABS still works during hard braking on a dirt road. I can live indefinitely without ESP/BAS (I hate that the ESP function is on until you turn it off), but would like to get the air bags working.

 

[jnaut]

Did you replace the battery? If you merely jump started it, your battery is still bad and needs to be replaced-- and *could* be causing your problems.

 

[moparman]

Either you zapped something while jumping it or... the battery was drained fully and I bet it is not charged fully either. Disconnect the battery, charge it and re-connect it before you do anything else. BTW remove the negative cable first & re-install it last.

 

[LibertyTC]

If I would have found the kj with ignition on/dead battery, the first thing I would have done is NOT to jump it. I would have removed the terminals, taken a voltage reading and then manually charged the battery for 3 hours or overnight to ensure polarity and a charge. Hopefully no damage to circuits or coils have occurred. Once a battery has been fully depleted it generally may not pass a load test, so a load test should be performed on that battery once fully charged overnight, or replace it and see if your dash warning lights remain on. I think you will need to see the dealer for re-programming or ? at this point.
Spark to ground is my reminder as last connections when jumping. A separate battery booster separate from a vehicle is best, but if you have to use another vehicle:
With computerized vehicles when jumping, a direct connection to the weak battery positive but dont use the negative terminals at the weak battery, negative jumper should go to a good ground like a steel engine bracket.
I use an all in one stand alone 600 amp jumper:
http://s779.photobucket.com/albums/yy75/LibertyTC/Jeep%20Liberty%202004/?action=view&current=PortablePower.jpg

I also use Smart Jumper cables: as a back up.
http://s779.photobucket.com/albums/yy75/LibertyTC/Jeep%20Liberty%202004/?action=view&current=RearSeat.jpg

 

[t_bois]

I talked to the dealer today; $125 to flash the 5 modules. He said this is not uncommon when jumping a dead vehicle and is not restricted to Chrysler , but can happen to any of the new vehicles; GM, Ford, even Mercedes.

You're correct about charging the battery prior to starting it. This was the same thought that went through my mind....right after I saw the lights go off and then come right back on. D'oh!

Another point about jumping a vehicle; never attach jumper cables while a vehicle is running. The vehicles should both be off; keys out of the ignition (key out of the ignition makes sure vehicles are off).

I’ve worked on a fair amount of equipment and rarely have I had issues where flash becomes corrupt due to unexpected power lose, but it can happen. Unfortunately, this time it will cost me (multiplied by all the times it has occurred to the hundreds of others) then what it would have cost the manufacturer to design a system with a backup system to allow a simple reload of the factory settings.
Next week, I'll take it in for the flash; the saga begins.