Cleaned EGR, CEL still on!

[cpaine]

What else could it be? How often does the solenoid go bad? Can I check it's function by just putting 12v to the terminals, or will I fry something? I would hate to replace the $180 unit if it's not the problem! Sooner or later I'll do the GED but it's still nice to know it work and I have to get the cel off so I know when my next new problem starts!
Besides boost hose holes what else will cause the EGR CEL?
Thanks.

Oh and is LOST ever coming back?

 

[Powerslave]

EGRs are vacuum controlled, aren't they? If you put 12V into the SENSOR, then you probably fried it.

You don't need it. I ran without one for 5-6 years, just closed it and capped the vacuum lined to it. Sure, I got a code, but I reset the ECM two days before emissions, and it passed EVERY time... If yours is stuck OPEN, then you may have problems idling, it may stall as mine did in my other car. So, I removed the vacuum line, capped it, and put the vacuuum line on over the cap so it would pass a visual; so, the EGR would stay closed permanently, and no problems EVER, and bad idle was gone.

The key point is, it PASSED the Tailpipe, and OBDII emissions test without the EGR valve working. They did a tailpipe test because they wanted to SHOW what a rip-off emissions testing really is...

If you are in a state that does NOT require an emissions test, then don't worry unless it is effecting the idle. IF so, remove the vacuum lines (IF or WHATER), and it will stay closed. You want the valve CLOSED. If you keep it this way, reset the ECM by removing battery power (I pulled the ENGINE fuse), two days before the test, and run it as normal. I did this for MANY years, never failed emissions.

 

[cpaine]

EGRs are vacuum controlled, aren't they? If you put 12V into the SENSOR, then you probably fried it.

You don't need it. I ran without one for 5-6 years, just closed it and capped the vacuum lined to it. Sure, I got a code, but I reset the ECM two days before emissions, and it passed EVERY time... If yours is stuck OPEN, then you may have problems idling, it may stall as mine did in my other car. So, I removed the vacuum line, capped it, and put the vacuuum line on over the cap so it would pass a visual; so, the EGR would stay closed permanently, and no problems EVER, and bad idle was gone.

The key point is, it PASSED the Tailpipe, and OBDII emissions test without the EGR valve working. They did a tailpipe test because they wanted to SHOW what a rip-off emissions testing really is...

If you are in a state that does NOT require an emissions test, then don't worry unless it is effecting the idle. IF so, remove the vacuum lines (IF or WHATER), and it will stay closed. You want the valve CLOSED. If you keep it this way, reset the ECM by removing battery power (I pulled the ENGINE fuse), two days before the test, and run it as normal. I did this for MANY years, never failed emissions.

Well thanks for the help but we must two different systems. Unless there is a vacuum system that controles the electric valve because mine only has a wire running to it.
And yeah I plan on just running w/o the egr but I want to fine out why the EGR CEL is on because I hear that it could be multiple other things that cause the egr code... Why would they do that!!!

 

[Powerslave]

Yeah, mine on the Avenger was Vacuum controlled, so it being stuck open at idle caused a vacuum loss, and idle problems. So, these are electronically controlled then...

The EGR code only means there is no reading from the EGR (if you disconnected the power), or that it is not sending the right values back as to it's position; according to parameters when the throttle is in certain positions. If the valve is CLOSED, it doesn't effect anything. The CEL stays on, but it should go off after a while, then come back on on 3-4 days again, for another month or so. People use nickels, or make a blocking gasket with a pop can to plug up their EGR tube to the intake plenum. There is no REAL need for an EGR system, it's been proven many times, and does not improve emissions from the tailpipe.

Truth be told; NO CAR with a Cat has optimized/good emissions until the catalyst is at full temperature. So, if you're running a mile or two, to the store and back, you didn't help the environment at all. It's a huge money making gimmick, for the most part... I can see the need for the PVC, and Canister, that keeps the fumes in the system, so you don't have to smell gas fumes from a breather filter anymore. There are some other benefits of course, but it doesn't work all in harmony till the CAT is hot.