Noticed a slight click noise on the initial turn in when I make a left turn, coming from the driver's side front. It just clicks 2 or 3 times initially but doesn't click throughout the turn (yet). Is this a bad CV on the driver's side?
Bad CV confirmation?
- Thread starter HoosierJeeper
- Start date
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dude1116
Full Access Member
I have a constant clicking around turns. I replaced the passenger side CV and half shaft and it's still doing it. I'm thinking that it might be the axle bearing. It's been like this for almost 80k miles now so honestly I'm leaving it until it becomes a major issue.
Sometimes it might make a click or two when going straight, and sometimes it's completely silent no matter what, and it's always just two or three clicks, never constant. It never does it when making a right turn it seems.
Checked for play on the driver's side. Nothing is loose. Passenger side I can grab the end of the joint where it connects to the intermediate shaft and wiggle it...is this likely the culprit? I guess when making a left turn the passenger side would be under load.
megatone
Full Access Member
I doubt that the sloppiness where the cv shaft mates with the intermediate shaft would be making that clicking noise.
Let me ask you this: Does the front of your Liberty make a clunking type of sound when traveling over bumps at low speeds? Sounding something like a worn out bushing? Because typically that little bit of wiggle room sloppiness with the intermediate shaft is what can cause a clunk type of sound very similar to a bad front end bushing.
No...doesn't make any types of clunks, haven't noticed any.
turblediesel
memberable
My test for worn cv joints on older european stuff was to find an open lot and steer in one direction adding more turn to load up the side opposite the direction of the turn with the cv joint operating at an angle. Slow speeds work fine; don't flip the Jeep. Then do the other direction. Bad cv should click constantly while under load. I was told running a bad cv would jackhammer the cv on the other side to death and not be good for gearbox bearings. Look out for the curb, lightpoles, bike, dog...
A bad one would click if under load, correct?
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
My cv hub was pretty sloppy, below is a pic of my intermediate shaft, bad one on the bottom.
It wasn't making a clicking noise though, it was more of a rhythmic ratchety groan. But, with being lifted and having more stress on the axle, maybe it just jumped right past the clicking stage.
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Just went on a half hour diagnosing session...it's extremely intermittent....like out of the 50 turns I made it only acted up maybe 3 or 4 times. Was in 4 full time. When it does act up, it seems to be more prone to it when coasting to a stop (with a slight turn) and it was silent most of the time, but if it did it'd just be 2 clicks, keep the wheel turned and it'd be silent. I thought that a bad CV joint would click through the duration of the turn. And most of the time it's perfectly fine.
What is the best way to check the CV axles for play?
What is the best way to check the CV axles for play?
the_dealer
Full Access Member
HJ why not pull the drivers side first(easiest) and stick a rag in the diff to keep from loosing a bunch of fluid, then going for a drive. If it still makes the noise, pull the passenger side but leave drivers side out too. If noise is there it's not the CV. Remove front driveshaft. If noise is gone there's your problem, if noise is there it's brakes/hubs or not in the front at all. It's a pain in the ass to do but it's a surefire way to narrow it down fairly efficiently. I always wait until I find the problem then put everything on at once instead of pull CV, reinstall, pull, reinstall.
Do you have the 241 tc?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
Do you have the 241 tc?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Tapatalk
I have the 242 transfer case. Maybe pulling the CVs out when I do the new lift might be the solution, although I agree it sounds like a pain lol.
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
You did one thing already with some questionable results:
By nature, there's a little bit of play between the hub and intermediate shaft. But if yours flops up and down (more than just a little), then you're looking at a worn shaft/hub to a certain degree, like in the pic I posted. Are you able to post a video of the movement?
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Hopefully this works...click on it.
megatone
Full Access Member
My daughters 2004 KJ has SOME movement like that......no clicking sounds though.
My brother in Law's 2003 also has SOME movement like that but....again, no clicking sound.
Perhaps yours is a little worn too much and the click sound you hear is the lock ring (on intermediate shaft) snapping in and out of the splines. I don't know, but with that much movement of the cv shaft on the intermediate shaft seems excessive and I would definately pull the components apart to get a better look at the splines.
Wouldn't be too difficult pulling those parts out of the vehicle....it's a process, but not too bad. With simple hand tools, probably 30 minutes to remove....with air tools 5. But remember to spray all the nuts/bolts with some kind of rust inhibitor (I use PB Penetrating Blast), (also spray/soak the top of the clevise where it clamps onto the lower part of the strut.).
My brother in Law's 2003 also has SOME movement like that but....again, no clicking sound.
Perhaps yours is a little worn too much and the click sound you hear is the lock ring (on intermediate shaft) snapping in and out of the splines. I don't know, but with that much movement of the cv shaft on the intermediate shaft seems excessive and I would definately pull the components apart to get a better look at the splines.
Wouldn't be too difficult pulling those parts out of the vehicle....it's a process, but not too bad. With simple hand tools, probably 30 minutes to remove....with air tools 5. But remember to spray all the nuts/bolts with some kind of rust inhibitor (I use PB Penetrating Blast), (also spray/soak the top of the clevise where it clamps onto the lower part of the strut.).
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dude1116
Full Access Member
More like an hour or more with hand tools. My CV was rusted to the steering knuckle something bad.
It still seems like it's more of a driver's side/center thing. Maybe it is the intermediate shaft as that is kinda central.
The driver's side axle has no play, although it makes a small creaking noise when pushed on, but it doesn't move at all. Does that mean it's likely ok? Passenger side/intermediate shaft is in the vid. Moves a bit.
The driver's side axle has no play, although it makes a small creaking noise when pushed on, but it doesn't move at all. Does that mean it's likely ok? Passenger side/intermediate shaft is in the vid. Moves a bit.
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CactusJacked
Full Access Member
Gotta tell your camera man to hold it still, I'm dizzy. 
From what I can tell, considering my eyes were jumping around to keep up, the hub looks to have enough movement to warrant an exploratory look see. Just pushing up and pulling down, how much deflection would you say it had?
From what I can tell, considering my eyes were jumping around to keep up, the hub looks to have enough movement to warrant an exploratory look see. Just pushing up and pulling down, how much deflection would you say it had?
megatone
Full Access Member
Yeah, when things get rusty.....that's when they get time consuming. Just last week I replaced a transmission output shaft seal on an fwd Lexus.....the car originally lived most of it's life in Maryland and had rust on every thing. I ended up having to pull the intermediate shaft, carrier bearing, carrier bearing bracket, cv axle, brake caliper, brake hose, brake disc, abs sensor w/wire, low brake pad warning sensor w/wire, wheel bearing hub assembly and the steering knuckle.........as a whole unit. Simple 30-45 minute job turned out to take 4 hours. Looked like I had removed some type of mechanical monstrosity off a robotic warrior from one of those Terminator movies.
Got my camera man to take a better vid, laid the phone on the ground.
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