Advice on buying a used KJ?

[StuckInTheMidWest]

So I'm thinking about a Liberty as my Cherokee is on life support! I've been lurking for a little while and finally decided to register. That being said, is there anything to pay special attention to when buying a used KJ? Obviously the older ones (02 and such) are more reasonably priced.....Should I stay away from those? Is there a particular model year that has been associated with any known problems? Thanks in advance!

 

[sleeve]

Things to look for:

1) 2002 and early 2003 models came with the 45RFE transmission out of the Dodge Ram
2) Same year time frame also gets you: Slightly taller springs (3/4"), 18 gallon gas tank, different power-steering profile and rear drum brakes that function as a killer parking brake.
3) Some early run 2003's and all KJ's after April 2003 came with 42RLE transmission which does the job... Those vehicles also get rear disk brakes, 19 gallon tank and shorter springs.
4) 2005+ MY's have a known window regulator problem resulting in constant failures. There is a fix now, but it costs you money at the dealership.
5) The rear body seam behind the flipper glass, on the back of the KJ, is were rust starts forming. Also check the door seams on the rear doors. Poor drainage there so another common area for rust. Make sure you look at both areas so you know what shape the body is in.
6) Renegade models came with a 160A alternator. regular trucks came with 132A alternator. 132A is enough, but just FYI ont the bigger alternator
7) Select-Trac TC allows for fulltime 4x4 driving, but is a weaker TC than the standard Command-Trac unit that most have.
8) Make sure the LBJ recall has been preformed. Surely it has but just in case, run the VIN number through the Jeep.com website to make sure.
9) The speed sensor plugs into the top of the diff and the parking brake cable can rub / fray through the sesnor wire. If you see intermitent speedometer operation - chances are the wire needs repair.
10) The multifuncition stalk (turn signal side) can cause the dash lights to flicker. Not a huge issue but you can wiggle the stalk and look for this. Replaceing the stalk fixes the issue.
11) Make sure the HVAC blower works on all 4 settings. The resistor block fails in these about every 2 or 3 years with constant use. Easy fix that costs about 17 dollars US.
12) valve spring failure is randomly reported on the 3.7L engine after 100K miles of use. Again, random issue that isn't widespread - but does exisit so it's worth knowing about.

I'd find a nice 2002. They are the best (biased opinion) because they get the stronger transmission, have an extra power-outlet in the front centerstack and don't exhibt many problems.

 

[StuckInTheMidWest]

Thanks for the information! Lots of good stuff here!

1) 2002 and early 2003 models came with the 45RFE transmission out of the Dodge Ram

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is that a good or bad thing?

8) Make sure the LBJ recall has been preformed

Once again, sorry if it's a dumb question!........What specifically LBJ recall?

Thanks!

 

[Atrus]

generally considered a good thing. LBJ = llower ball joint.

Couple more:

2005+ have ABS/TCS. your call on if this is good or bad. Everyone has their opinion, and well, they are like....you know (and they all stink).
2007 are kind of a weird animal. Drive by wire (no throttle cable), no trans dipstick (dipstick can be added)

 

[sleeve]

The 45RFE is the better transmission. Returns less gas mileage but it's stronger and has a cool selective 2nd gear. One for accelerating and one for passing on the highway.


Lower Ball Joints were prone to corrosion due to their design. Corrosion caused some failures (seperation of the lower control arm and knuckle) which leads to scary moments of driving.

You should be OK - as any KJ out there is probably fixed by now. I just put it in the items for consideration so you are aware of the history of the KJ.

Oh and 1 more: The radiators in the KJ have plastic endcaps that do not agree with the constant thermal expansion / contraction of engine cooling. The drivers side cap eventually will develop a hairline crack (upper portion.) Temporary fix is epoxy but it does require a new radiator. All KJ's have this problem (even mine)

 

[StuckInTheMidWest]

generally considered a good thing. LBJ = llower ball joint.

Couple more:

2005+ have ABS/TCS. your call on if this is good or bad. Everyone has their opinion, and well, they are like....you know (and they all stink).
2007 are kind of a weird animal. Drive by wire (no throttle cable), no trans dipstick (dipstick can be added)

Thanks for the reply! Keep 'em coming!

 

[HoosierJeeper]

On the Selec Trac vs. Command Trac, the Selec Trac case is stronger internally, but the shifting mechanism is weaker.

 

[Atrus]

On the Selec Trac vs. Command Trac, the Selec Trac case is stronger internally, but the shifting mechanism is weaker.

Command Trac is stronger internally, isn't it?

Either way you should have no issues unless you plan to rock climb. I have select-trac and love it.

 

[BigRich201]

get the carfax. make sure its up to date with its service records and see if any recalls were done on it. test drive the crap outta it. test the 4wd if its 4x4 to make sure theres no driveline binding . test braking, accelerating etc. check the tires for any tread wear.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Command Trac is stronger internally, isn't it?

Either way you should have no issues unless you plan to rock climb. I have select-trac and love it.

According to a Jeep book, the Selec Trac is slightly stronger...but the shifting is a lot weaker...

And I love my Selec Trac as well!

 

[kb0nly]

I second the comment on test driving the crap out of it! When i bought mine i took it for a drive, hard acceleration, passed a few on the highway, turned around in a muddy field approach just to engage the 4x4 to see if it was working, all seemed fine despite the crappy stock tires on it.

It was a warm enough day to test the A/C the whole drive, and the fan speeds. Just go over everything!

Oh, and if you feel a clunk on downshift when decelerating it could be that rear upper ball joint or it could be the problem me and a few others had with the driveshaft sticking rather than sliding as the rear axle moved. On mine that clunk went away after a few days of stop and go driving, it had sat for a few months before i bought it so the grease must have gotten dried out. A lube job does wonders for that!

 

[loves_off_roading]

Well I've heard that there have been some engine failures for the 02 model due to some malfunction. But after that year it was fixed. The 05-07 have had some window problems (they just randomly drop). It luckily hasn't hapened to me yet. The 06 and 07 models come with ESP and Traction Control. But this could be a problem if your a serious off roader. It can hold you back a little bit. ABS and AC is also standard on the 06 and 07.

Id say your best bet is to look for an 03 or 04 with AC. Those years haven’t had any big problems. But I recommend you buy one that has ABS. The Libby is heavy.

 

[jnaut]

Things to look for:

3) Some early run 2003's and all KJ's after April 2003 came with 42RLE transmission which does the job... Those vehicles also get rear disk brakes, 19 gallon tank and shorter springs.

Has anyone...ever, at any time been able to get more than 16 gallons into their 04+ libby? I've driven mine way after the fuel light has come on, and I've never been able to get more than like 16.2 gallons into it.

 

[loves_off_roading]

Also if you get one made b4 06 make sure you get the 3.7L engine. The 2.4L is a waste of time.

 

[ridenby]

Has anyone...ever, at any time been able to get more than 16 gallons into their 04+ libby? I've driven mine way after the fuel light has come on, and I've never been able to get more than like 16.2 gallons into it.

About all I can stuff in it

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Just FYI
'02 only got drum brakes.
'02/early 03 got the 45RFE from the Ram (which is a good thing)
later 03+ gets the 42RLE transmission...nothing BAD, but not particularly great. Seems to be a little smoother/more carlike than the RFE from the KJs ThunderbirdJunkie has driven.
Gages and front end/taillights and interior saw some changes for the '05 model year.
Starting 2006, KJs got traction and stability control and ABS standard, which does not seem very popular among owners of them.
'05 also saw the introduction of the six speed manual paired with an NV241 transfer case.

So, to summarize, if ThunderbirdJunkie were going to go KJ shopping again, he'd get (in order of preference)
A: another '02/early 03 Sport with the 45RFE
B: 05 Renegade or Sport with a 6 speed
C: 02-4 Sport 5 speed

 

[Marlon_JB2]

If I were to go KJ shopping (yet again...) I'd go for ThunderbirdJunkie's "B" choice.

I love that dang hood!

 

[sleeve]

About all I can stuff in it

Run it to 0 miles till empty (on the EVIC) on the highway, reset the trip computer drive 15 more miles and you'll get 17 gallons in the tank.

Fuel light comes on with a 2 gallon reserve.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Run it to 0 miles till empty (on the EVIC) on the highway, reset the trip computer drive 15 more miles and you'll get 17 gallons in the tank.

Fuel light comes on with a 2 gallon reserve.

Don't give people advice on *********** their fuel pump

 

[Marlon_JB2]

Run it to 0 miles till empty (on the EVIC) on the highway, reset the trip computer drive 15 more miles and you'll get 17 gallons in the tank.

Fuel light comes on with a 2 gallon reserve.

2 Gallon Reserve?

Each Jeep I've had, that fuel light comes on with about 3-4 gallons left, my WK being the biggest liar of all... I've driven that thing 75 miles after the gas light... literally....