AC issue

[offrovering]

my clutch does not seem to cycle, no cold air. seems like the clutch is bad, does this mean the compressor is as well?

is this something worth getting in to myself? Sounds like at very least if I were to replace the compressor which includes a new clutch I need to have the system discharged and then do the work, then have the system charged by a professional so it can be vacuumed?

Never done anything with AC so I am looking for feedback on the worth of doing it myself, this is one of those things I would prefer to have it done correctly so it doesnt cost more in the long run.

 

[Billwill]

There are some fuses and a relay for the clutch which may be faulty. However the clutch will not engage if the system is not up to proper charge.
Take it to an aircon specialist who can check the refrigerant level.

 

[offrovering]

Cluth engages when tapped. Also noticed the clutch is magnetized, what does that tell me?

Already checked fuse and relay, both good. Swapped the relay for equal with one that was known to be working.

Its an 03 with 110,000 miles. Also checked freon level, it measures correctly when running while clutch is engaging.

 

[offrovering]

the magnetism is due to the clutch not engaging yet it is trying to.

While the system is running properly the clutch is magnetized while engaged. When the clutch plate disengages it is no longer magnetized.

Once some load is applied after 10-15 mins the clutch plate will disengage and not reengage. While it is disengaged it is magnetized, so if you tap it it will engage.

leads me to believe the clutch is going bad. Replacing the whole compressor with new clutch seems the reasonable approach.

Are any certain compressors recommended over others?

 

[jeepchic79]

I am having probs with my Ac As well it works some times for a while then just starts blowing warm air . Then if i turn it off for a few mins it comes back !

 

[offrovering]

I am having probs with my Ac As well it works some times for a while then just starts blowing warm air . Then if i turn it off for a few mins it comes back !

bet yours is the same thing. Tap the front of the clutch plate while the engine is running ***VERY CAREFULLY*** and see if the clutch engages. I would bet it will engage and then when you give some throttle load it will disengage.

Now if someone else would chime in on doing this compressor replacement I can decide whether it is worth it.

 

[tjkj2002]

Yes you need the system evac'ed before attempting any work on the AC system.

It takes less then 20mins to change the AC compressor,but you need to change the orifice tube(a whole line in a KJ) and the receiver/dryer also when installing a new compressor,you also must add the correct amount of oil in the new components also(the correct PAG oil also must be used).Then have a shop recharge the AC system with the correct amount of R134A.

 

[offrovering]

Yes you need the system evac'ed before attempting any work on the AC system.

It takes less then 20mins to change the AC compressor,but you need to change the orifice tube(a whole line in a KJ) and the receiver/dryer also when installing a new compressor,you also must add the correct amount of oil in the new components also(the correct PAG oil also must be used).Then have a shop recharge the AC system with the correct amount of R134A.

thanks.

So it sounds like this is worth doing. Just have a shop evacuate the system, drive the truck home, do the work, drive it back and have them recharge the system.

Can you help me with the info on the correct amount of oil in the components and what type?

I am still assuming my problem is the clutch, does this sounds correct?

 

[tjkj2002]

Component ------------ml ------------oz
Total System Fill -------240 -----------8
Accumulator -----------90 ------------3
Condenser -------------22 ----------- .75
Evaporator -------------45 ---------- 1.5

Compressor....

Drain and measure the oil
from the old compressor
as noted

Use SP–15 PAG refrigerant oil.

 

[offrovering]

Component ------------ml ------------oz
Total System Fill -------240 -----------8
Accumulator -----------90 ------------3
Condenser -------------22 ----------- .75
Evaporator -------------45 ---------- 1.5

Compressor....

Drain and measure the oil
from the old compressor
as noted

Use SP–15 PAG refrigerant oil.

when I take the compressor out after the system is discharged, is oil drained from the accumulator, condenser, and evaporator?

 

[AJK381]

you might want to have the sytem evaced and see if your not just low on refrigerant cause they have a pressure sensor and it wont cycle the compresor if its empty.

 

[offrovering]

you might want to have the sytem evaced and see if your not just low on refrigerant cause they have a pressure sensor and it wont cycle the compresor if its empty.

Ok but if that was the case wouldn't the clutch not engage at all? Mine will run and cool the car but after say 15 mins it shuts off. I pulled the pressure sensor and made sure it was seated correctly. The clutch when it is shut off is magnetized, so the coil must be going bad.

 

[osufans]

so does your compressor cycle sometimes but not always? i was thinking the same thing about possibly just being low on refrigerant, which would prevent it from cycling at all. but i guess i didn't see where you said it would sometimes come on (on its own, without you attempting to force it on.)

 

[offrovering]

so does your compressor cycle sometimes but not always? i was thinking the same thing about possibly just being low on refrigerant, which would prevent it from cycling at all. but i guess i didn't see where you said it would sometimes come on (on its own, without you attempting to force it on.)

yes, it runs on its own for 10-15 mins then goes bad. I think it has slowly gotten worse over time. My wife drives it so I havent noticed the progression but I am now driving it to figure it out.

Pretty surer the coil in the clutch is going bad. From my readings it sounds like you might as well just replace the whole compressor. So that is going to be my approach.

Unfortunately the manual doesnt have instructions on replacing the compressor so I am trying to learn more here from someone who has done it.

 

[Nooby]

my ac clutch failed a few weeks ago,

when it started to fail it made a bearing type of noise

the ac clutch still cycled on and off like it should, after the a week the noise increased to very loud

still ac clutch cycled on and off like it should, then after another week the clutch had it and lock up,

the whole time it was making noise never had a problem with temp, always cold

I know it was magnetized when running, I can not remember if it did it when off, I can check my new compressor tonight to see if it is magnetized when off

your clutch could be going out, if it made alot of noise I would say for sure,
but it could just be low on freon too, have you checked it,

I went for the new compressor and dryer, reason, I didn't want to chance the money for just a new clutch on a 8 year old compressor

 

[offrovering]

When your clutch turns off it will probably not be magnetized. When mine starts to fail, it will stop yet still be magnetized. I don't see how my freon levels can be low, I've checked.

 

[offrovering]

this is an air gap issue with the clutch plate. I am confident in this because as the compressor warms up the magnetism is weaker and unable to pull the clutch in. When the compressor is cold there is a stronger magnetic pull which is why it works find.

Now I just have to cross my fingers and hope I have an extra shim in there that can be pulled out. If I dont, or if my air gap is already low then I need to replace the whole compressor.

 

[offrovering]

FYI for anyone that finds this later or if anyone is following or cares.

I took the clutch off and apart and removed the shim on the dowel which is used to control the air gap. Over time due to wear I believe the gap was too wide. After removing the shim and buffing/cleaning the surfaces of the clutch plate and inner coil I put it back together. I now have regular cycling of the clutch and it does not fail like it was before. This may or may not be a long term fix but it seems to be working. With 110K on it and being 7.5 years old, it may be time sooner or later.

FYI for anyone with similar issues. The clutch is drawn in to engage by the inner coil by magnet field. As the compressor warms up the magnetic draw is weaker which results in the clutch not engaging to cycle. If you think you have this issue, there is a nut on the face of the clutch plate. Use the metal handle of a socket wrench while the car is on and the clutch is cycling, the bolt will be magnetized. BE VERY CAREFUL, there is some serious RPM on that nut. When you think your clutch it failing the plate will stop engaging/spinning, feel the nut again, if it is magnetized you probably have too wide an air gap. If it is NOT magnetized it is something else, like the coil or an electric, or low pressure switch issue.

From what I have learned you cannot replace just the clutch. I wish I knew where to buy a clutch because more than likely the compressor is fine. The back of my clutch plate and clutch itself was fairly corroded.

Always be careful working on a running engine, do not work on it if you arent sure what parts do what. Also, an AC system is very dangerous to work on, FREON, high pressure, heat, etc., all combined.

 

[osufans]

thanks for the update. must be time for a/c issues.

my a/c hasn't been as cold lately, so i just charged it with the UV dye additive, and within a couple days i found my condensor has a leak. $88 for a new one, but the leak is so small, i'm gonna attempt to fix it with some of that JB Weld epoxy first. it's leaking right on the end of one of the loops, so why not?

 

[daedaestoy]

hey how did you fix the air gap? or did you remove the shim completely? i need to do the same to my cluch as u have done with yours..