2WD LO and the NP241J transfe case

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sota

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I know there's a kit for the NP231J that adds in 2WD LO, the question is will that kit work in an NP241J transfer case? I have cause to want the option. I have also been informed that it is unwise to consider swaping in a 231 in place of my 241 due to my having a stick shift. is that still the case? (no pun in tended)
 

tjkj2002

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Somewhere between being sane and insane!

sota

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the question more is is the selector different between the 241J and 241OR. given the fact they show different units between the 231 and 241 I pretty much already ruled that out as a possiblity.

and while I usually value your opinion like I said I have my reasons for wanting it... and it's not to do burnouts.
 

sota

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Ry... what t-case is in yours.
 

Ry' N Jen

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Whatever it came with from the factory!
I'm looking for one out of a Rubi, then when I have that I will eventually stuff a
Rubi Crawler into our Jeep as well.
I wasn't counting on replacing the ****** this year otherwise I would of had
a Rock Trac T case already...
Oh well, next year!
 

Ry' N Jen

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Just buy a AtlasII,no chain stretch anymore and 2low,front only low,and many different low ranges to choose from(2:1,3:1,3.8:1,4.3:1,5:1,and 6:1).

I'm looking at one of those as well.
I figure that by the time I buy a good used/rebuilt Rock Trac and Rubi Crawler
I'm looking at about $3000.00+. For marginally more cash I can buy an Atlas II
and (Most likely new drive shafts) have the best shit going!
 

tjkj2002

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I'm looking at one of those as well.
I figure that by the time I buy a good used/rebuilt Rock Trac and Rubi Crawler
I'm looking at about $3000.00+. For marginally more cash I can buy an Atlas II
and (Most likely new drive shafts) have the best shit going!
You could easily do a 3.8 or 4.3 Atlas for $3000 all said and done.Just looking at AA's site a 3.8 would run about $2580 with universal cable shifters,1310 CV yokes,and 32 spline HD front output,about $2650 for the 4.3 Atlas.It should not cost more then $200 per driveshaft to have them modify with 1310 CV's(lengthen or shorten also).With the 45RFE you will need 2 spacers,for a total of 3/4",to clear the trans mount which run about $60 for both.

Prices have gone up some as I paid $2500 after shipping for my 4.3 5 years ago with billet flanges($150 each),32 spline front output,and universal cable shifters.
 

sota

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ok so according to TeraFlex, the 231J, 241J and 241OR all use different shift selectors.
they're thinking of making a piece for the 241J but don't have it at this time.

so now the next question is... can I bolt up a 231 as a direct replacement for the 241 without having to do crazy things like new driveshafts? I know I've been told the 231 is "weaker" than the 241, but from what I've read it's not THAT much weaker.
 

tjkj2002

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ok so according to TeraFlex, the 231J, 241J and 241OR all use different shift selectors.
they're thinking of making a piece for the 241J but don't have it at this time.

so now the next question is... can I bolt up a 231 as a direct replacement for the 241 without having to do crazy things like new driveshafts? I know I've been told the 231 is "weaker" than the 241, but from what I've read it's not THAT much weaker.
It will bolt up but not 100% sure if the case demensions are the same between the 231 and 241 so you may or may not need driveshaft mods.
 

sota

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It will bolt up but not 100% sure if the case demensions are the same between the 231 and 241 so you may or may not need driveshaft mods.

in other words, best to find a total doner vehicle so I can swipe everything possible. oh and to take measurements of course.
 

sota

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So at the end of the day Sota why do you want a 2 low for your Rig?

i'm sure this will raise the ire of some people but...
for when I'm towing, or more correctly when I'm positioning the trailer.

I did that tow job on sunday and at the destination I skunked the clutch trying to back the trailer into the guy's driveway. it was my own fault for trying to back in the way I did (which was uphill at a gradient higher than I realized) and should have done the approach from the opposite direction (which would have had gravity helping me vs. hurting me.) Doesn't seem to have terminally injured the clutch but I'm sure I just took some life off it. At one point I just said **** it, tossed it in 4LO to get the crawl rate I needed and prayed the 6 feet of driveway I was jockeying on wouldn't blow up the transfer case. it didn't luckily and I didn't even notice any driveline bind but still, having a 2LO would have made the whole thing a non-issue, even with the bad approach. plus at some point I can see getting caught in a situation where having 2LO would mean I'm not stuck on a hill or something.

and yes I still refuse to get a slushbox equipped vehicle, even for towing. the hatred I have for autos goes to my core.
 

tommudd

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Down at my home place I have a steep hill to back in the driveway and flip mine into 4 lo everytime I back in. Have done it for years on everything I have ever owned. Been doing it with the KJ since 2004 with no issues
 

HoosierJeeper

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Going in 4LO on a driveway (paved) is fine if you don't turn. Transfercase won't know the difference.

Actually, just about every time I wash the KJ, I pop in 4LO to coast in the garage just to keep the shifter from locking up.
 

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