2002 Jeep kj stalling problem

[aalsawad]

Hi, It's my first day here and I did register to solve the mistory in my 3002 jeep KJ it start fine when it's cool for 5 minutes then stall die and can't start again, when I buy the car it wasn't work so I did chainge the battery starter motor, it was run too rich so I change the fuel pump. To solve the stalling problem I change ICV, spark plug, CPM, and I did cleand the throtel body the intake manful the injectors but still have the problem, most of the time there is no codes but some time I get codes they are P0301/2/6 and P1281 but non of them come out together and some times I get the airbag light on for no reason! Any one can help?
Thanks

 

[PunkChachi]

Maybe a short somewhere, trace your wires and see if any of them are against a hot part and melted. Idk if that would cause stalling after its warmed up. Is it a rough idle too, maybe check on the Camshaft Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. If they go bad they can cause stalling issues and rough idles.

 

[aalsawad]

Thanks for your reply @PunkChachi yes it's rough idle some times, I was thinking to trace the wires and change the Camshaft Position and the Crankshaft Position Sensors but I am confused a bit here you talk about 2 sensors and every time I search for them I find one sensor call 2 name so are they 2 or one sensor? and where is it located?

over that why the CPM didn't give a code as these sensors defected?

cheers

 

[J33Pfan]

how many miles and did it ever overheat?

P030_ (1-6) is either a spark lug, Coil, or fuel injector.

get back to basics! install new copper plugs like it says on the hood. Gap is .040. (if you use a different plug you might be in hell for a while)
is there any liquid around the spark plug or coil boot? cause that will interfere with the spark plug.
*while the plugs are out borrow a tool at parts store and do a compression test.
**take a pic of the old plugs so we can see the damage.

Hows the Gas? was the jeep laid up ? treat the gas or empty tank.

Hope you got a good deal! Good Luck!

.

 

[aalsawad]

how many miles and did it ever overheat?

P030_ (1-6) is either a spark lug, Coil, or fuel injector.

get back to basics! install new copper plugs like it says on the hood. Gap is .040. (if you use a different plug you might be in hell for a while)
is there any liquid around the spark plug or coil boot? cause that will interfere with the spark plug.
*while the plugs are out borrow a tool at parts store and do a compression test.
**take a pic of the old plugs so we can see the damage.

Hows the Gas? was the jeep laid up ? treat the gas or empty tank.

Hope you got a good deal! Good Luck!

.

It's 93000 mile or 150,000 km only, I did think of every thing you ask for in your message for that I clean and rotate the coils and injuctors and get new spark plugs but still get same misfire code for cylinders 1,2 and 6. Today I traced the wires and they all fine no melted or any problem.

The spark plug was black because the car was running rich before I change the fuel pump to get the fuel pressure regulater changed.

The fuel is in good condition even my friend use some of it.

I think next step is changing the sensors which they are around $200!!!! here in Australia.

 

[J33Pfan]

It's 93000 mile or 150,000 km only, I did think of every thing you ask for in your message for that I clean and rotate the coils and injuctors and get new spark plugs but still get same misfire code for cylinders 1,2 and 6. Today I traced the wires and they all fine no melted or any problem.

The spark plug was black because the car was running rich before I change the fuel pump to get the fuel pressure regulater changed.

The fuel is in good condition even my friend use some of it.

I think next step is changing the sensors which they are around $200!!!! here in Australia.

i never heard a FP causing a rich condition. sounds more like Fuel Injectors 1,2,6 might be black again. but a compression test first.

anyways what type of spark plug you use makes a big difference! what did you install? it should be a copper plug or V-grove.

 

[aalsawad]

i never heard a FP causing a rich condition. sounds more like Fuel Injectors 1,2,6 might be black again. but a compression test first.

anyways what type of spark plug you use makes a big difference! what did you install? it should be a copper plug or V-grove.

it's not the Fuel Pimp that cause a rich run but the fuel pressure regulator did, I change the whole assembly to get new pressure regulator. by the way I mentioned before that theses codes never come over together in every stalling I get new codes but but these codes are repeated few times

 

[aalsawad]

Update to the situation, I burchased the cam sensor from the dealer $92 and put it in the car I did trace the the wiring and they look good no problem on them, vacums line are ok as well the crank sensor need 6 week to order from USA I did find one in ebay and it's on the way.
I can't start the car since I put the new cam sensor!
This car make me crazy

 

[JasonJ]

Update to the situation, I burchased the cam sensor from the dealer $92 and put it in the car I did trace the the wiring and they look good no problem on them, vacums line are ok as well the crank sensor need 6 week to order from USA I did find one in ebay and it's on the way.
I can't start the car since I put the new cam sensor!
This car make me crazy

Best of luck to you, but this is what sometimes happens when you buy a vehicle knowing that it doesn't run and has an unknown problem.

 

[J33Pfan]

Update to the situation, I burchased the cam sensor from the dealer $92 and put it in the car I did trace the the wiring and they look good no problem on them, vacums line are ok as well the crank sensor need 6 week to order from USA I did find one in ebay and it's on the way.
I can't start the car since I put the new cam sensor!
This car make me crazy

IDK but it seems like the more you do the worse it becomes. try going back to the original parts. see if it improves.

 

[J33Pfan]

connect a scanner and take a pic of the data for each sensor, etc. post it here.

 

[aalsawad]

connect a scanner and take a pic of the data for each sensor, etc. post it here.

I think it's flooded with fuel or battrey getting weak, I did recharge the jumper yesterday, I'll try to start it up tomorrow and send the scanner data. Thanks

 

[J33Pfan]

fouled plugs have to be replaced

buy the copper plugs recommended on the hood.

IMO - if you continue to flood, disconnect one of the fuel injector elec plugs that gets flooded to see if it runs better with out it. move on to a different cylinder for the same test. 1 fuel injector at a time.

can you test the TPS? (OHM METER) OR (SCANNER)

 

[aalsawad]

Thanks for your support and advices guys
here an update of what I did with my jeep.
- I have change the cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor, checked the TPS and it's completely in good condition checked the coils and they are in good condition as well, cleaned the spark plug as I had a feeling they will flooded again and "yes they did."

-I did start the car today and it run from first try but the engine was shaking a bit and it did increase when it get warm I record the live data as @J33Pfan required and here the beginning, middle and end of the record data using Autel maxiscan Ms509 This is the best scan I have don't ask for more )

PLAY BACK 0/60
--------------------------------------------------
DTC-CNT 1
FUELSYS1 CL
FUELSYS2 CL
LOAD_PCT(%) 12.2
ETC (℃) 58
SHRTFT1(%) -33.6
LONGFT1(%) 0.0
SHRTFT2(%) -33.6
LONGFT2(%) 0.0
MAP(kpa) 91
RPM(/min) 799
VSS(km/h) 0
SPARKADV(º ) 5
IAT (℃) 55
TP(%) 13.7
O2S B1S12--B2S12--
O2B1S1(V) 0.880
SHRTFTB1S1(%) -33.0
O2B1S2(V) 0.880
O2B2S1(V) 0.960
SHRTFTB2S1(%) -33.0
O2B2S2(V) 0.940
OBD OBD2


BLAY BACK 31/60
--------------------------------------------------
DTC-CNT 1
FUELSYS1 CL
FUELSYS2 CL
LOAD_PCT(%) 8.6
ETC (℃) 74
SHRTFT1(%) -33.6
LONGFT1(%) 0.0
SHRTFT2(%) -33.6
LONGFT2(%) 0.0
MAP(kpa) 92
RPM(/min) 716
VSS(km/h) 0
SPARKADV(º ) 8
IAT (℃) 67
TP(%) 13.7
O2S B1S12--B2S12--
O2B1S1(V) 0.820
SHRTFTB1S1(%) -33.0
O2B1S2(V) 0.800
O2B2S1(V) 0.900
SHRTFTB2S1(%) -33.0
O2B2S2(V) 0.900
OBD OBD2


BLAY BACK 59/60
--------------------------------------------------
DTC-CNT 1
FUELSYS1 CL
FUELSYS2 CL
LOAD_PCT(%) 9.4
ETC (℃) 84
SHRTFT1(%) -33.6
LONGFT1(%) -33.6
SHRTFT2(%) -33.6
LONGFT2(%) -33.6
MAP(kpa) 98
RPM(/min) 538
VSS(km/h) 0
SPARKADV(º ) 10
IAT (℃) 72
TP(%) 13.3
O2S B1S12--B2S12--
O2B1S1(V) 0.800
SHRTFTB1S1(%) -33.0
O2B1S2(V) 0.740
O2B2S1(V) 0.900
SHRTFTB2S1(%) -33.0
O2B2S2(V) 0.840
OBD OBD2

I keep it running until it's warm up to the normal running temp and finishing the records "around 15 min" than I switch it off it didn't stall which is good, even I move it from it's place and every thing was fine except the shaking, I try to switch it on again after 1 hour It just start for few second and stall again. fuel smell from exhaust, I open spark plug in cylinder 1 it's flooded again.

Open to your comments guys what do you think? what is next step?

 

[boxbuster]

Hello,
Did you ever determine what the problem was? Looking at the Live Data you posted, it looks a lot like what Im seeing on my '02. It starts great, idles rough after it warms up, then, when I put in reverse or drive, it will die. It's running rich and throwing O2 sensor codes 0141 and 0161.
Any ideas what it could be???

 

[jja]

My 50 cents - flooded EVAP canister could pour gasoline after throttle body.

 

[aalsawad]

Hi boxbuster, yes the problem was the head gasket I find a milky oil over the cam shaft sensor and after I make cylinder pressure test I find out the problem. Your problem could be the crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor, fuel pressure regulator or head gasket if you are unlucky like me. Before you spend any mony to change the spare part check out the fuel and cylinder pressure and don’t worry about your oxygen sensors they are perfectly fine and good luck

 

[boxbuster]

Thank you for reply. Yes, I did a compression test yesterday and the #2 cylinder had "0" (zero) no compression. It never threw a misfire code like some have mentioned. I don't think it's a head gasket leak since the oil is not milky. Also, it is not making even the slightest sound - no ticking, knocks or anything. After reading a few things about the sounds that are made with dropped valves, I don't think it's that either. Same for a broken valve spring - I think that would make a lot of noise too.
The only other thing I think it could be is a rocker arm has dropped due to a lifter problem. I haven't had the valve cover pulled yet, and am trying to decide if I want to spend money on a repair, or sell it as is for a mechanics special. If I have to pay to replace a head, I know the labor will be very expensive even though you can get a complete head from eBay for $300 or so.

 

[boxbuster]

Also, JJA, thanks for reply about evap canister. I had that checked before too.