AMPlibby06
Full Access Member
Just won an ebay auction at 9am for an 05 OEM light bar! It is missing one light cover but I can manage. Can't wait to do the install! Now if only tony lived in Rochester, NY 
$117.50 for my used renegade light bar!
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Got a good deal....congrats!!!!
AMPlibby06
Full Access Member
No, it unfortunately does not. But I thinking I might just use an add-a-fuse and wire them straight to a 12v source, and use a switch. If that's possible. My dad's a wiring genius so we'll figure something out. I can always order all the wiring from my jeep dealer if necessary.
Jeepman56
Full Access Member
Congrats to you! I was thinking about going the used route but I knew I would run into the wiring issue. Make sure you get a pic or 2 of the wiring job, maybe that will help us that are not so electrically inclined.
yeah, I have thought the same thing about going used, so please keep us updated! I guess you can try a junkyard and try to find the switch panel that goes inside, so you can still have the stock look. Good luck.
AMPlibby06
Full Access Member
I'm not too worried about the switch panel, I can always put another switch in my panel. I just wanna figure out all this wiring business!
AMPlibby06
Full Access Member
Most likely not. I'm sure everyone knows that I can only legally use the light bar while wheeling, so I think I can handle keeping the subs off while I wheel! If it becomes a problem, I'll get a capacitor for my amp so they don't draw as much power.
Marlon_JB2
Kombat Edition Jeep
Congrats! Speaking of this lightbar, I recently saw one on an XJ! Looked right at home.
GA05SPORT
Member
Just purchase the Liberty/Commander aux light wiring kit (for four lights ) other than one small splice you will be fine. It is almost exactly the same as the factory wiring. The switch is a bit different but other wise you won't know otherwise. Of course you must be willing to spend $125.00 more but it's OEM wiring. The fun part is finding the nut zerts. What a royal PITA!
Ry' N Jen
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Just won an ebay auction at 9am for an 05 OEM light bar! It is missing one light cover but I can manage. Can't wait to do the install! Now if only tony lived in Rochester, NY
Always wanted to go to NY....if you spring for the airplane ticket I'll bring my tools
All joking aside, congrets on a great buy and I'd advice you to get the foot of OEM wire that goes through the roof. It will make a waterproof connection. After that you can wire it any way you like. Good luck and please do post some install pics!
And you can find those nutzerts online. They are called pop-a-nut (well, that's what I have) or thread rivets something like that. Try google. You need the 6mm type...in standard that's....5/8?? Gosh I am so bad in standard. Well, at least that's the key size for a 6mm bolt...
Here, maybe this will help you out!
Harbour Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1210
Two locations in ROCHESTER, NY
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf?f=detail&Retail_Store_ID=233
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/retail_stores.taf?f=detail&Retail_Store_ID=149
And for all us Canadians on this forum who might be interested in one of these, I'll post a link for Princess Auto who sells the Identical Item.
http://www.princessauto.com/tools/h.../2925204-sae-threaded-insert-installation-kit
Incidentally, I also have a high end U.S. made version of one of these hand operated tools that ran into $100.00 plus mark as well as a pneumatic version that I bought for production work and set me back $425.00... Both are total P.O.S.! And spent more time being serviced by the manufacture, than they actually spent be used to pop inserts into my product.
This less expensive off shore made item has been more dependable and reliable in a commercial application.
I just thought I'd add that comment before someone pipes up and say's the usual bla bla bla... Chinese made crap!
Cheers
Ry'
BennyMigs
New Member
Yes please post a detailed post on the wiring if you can
AMPlibby06
Full Access Member
East Rochester is 6 miles from my house!! Thanks Ryan!!!!
People have always talked about harbor freight on here and I just thought it was one of those places that you hear about from everywhere, but never see (like sonic!!!)
Ry' N Jen
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Sonic!
I've seen their adds on TV and have always wondered if their food is any better than Mc Rotten A hole or if "IT" too will provide the average person heartburn, indigestion, and set my esophagitis off like the 4th. of July!
Anyway, glad to be of service.
When you go to install the "Nutserts", make sure you use a high quality silicon sealant in the hole you drilled and then when you go to screw in the fastener, use a little more sealant in the thread of the nutserts and bolt.
Locktite works for that as well. You want to keep all the water out so that you don't have any moisture intrusion into your vehicle.
I would also apply a little more silicon with your finger around the tightened bolt.
Cheers
Ry'
AMPlibby06
Full Access Member
So the light bar came today with the wiring!!!! BUT they forgot my light covers!!!! So, I'm gonna email them and ask them to send them asap. I think I'll just run the wiring that came with the light bar to get into the cabin, then I'll just run to a switch and an add-a-fuse then just wire them to the battery. I don't need to mess with relays and the such. Huge relief that I'm not buying mopar wiring!!!!
kj924
Administrator
Excellent!!
Ry' N Jen
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You really should install two relays. One per pair of lights. I believe that the factory roof light bar uses 40 watt bulbs for each lamp. That's 160 watts of total light out put. That would be 13.33333 amps that you will be running to/ through your switch. With relays you would have lower amperage going through the switch, which means less heat that the switch has to deal with and less chances of a premature switch failure; which could result in an electrical failure or even fire due to an electrical failure.
I've been through one electrical fire for that very reason myself back in the days when I first had my Mini on the road in 1983 when I wired up two 55 watt driving lights. ( 9.17 amps.through a switch on the dashboard.) Even though the switch had a high 30 ampere rating, it melted, shorted, and filled the cabin with acrid smoke, then bright pretty coloured flames!
Never again for me! Now each of my 130 watt bulbs has their own 30 ampere relay.
I'll be doing the exact same thing with my lighting on the Liberty.
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