How many inches of lift do you have? Measure from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender, then subtract 19”, which was the stock height of the KJ when new.
Typically upper control arms are needed at 3+ inches of lift or more to get a good alignment. But they are a worthwhile...
Most of us drill a hole in the lower spring perch and stack hockey pucks there, bolted down. A rule of thumb is one puck per inch of lift, because regulation pucks are an inch tall. You wouldn’t have to weld anything if the diameter of a hockey puck fits inside that hole in your spacer.
^^* x2 on car-part.com. I use that all the time to keep my Jeep alive. Most recently I found a drivers side CV axle in Trenton, as the boot on mine finally gave out after 238,000 miles and it ate itself internally. It’s in the garage waiting for me to get the motivation to tear the front...
Yup. I added HD cooling to mine and adding the mechanical fan is all there is to it. I would suggest going with the Mopar fan and fan clutch and keep it OEM. Hayden makes a good fan clutch if the Mopar unit is too expensive. (And you don’t have to change the electric fan at all.)
The fan shroud for the KK should already be there, under the washer fluid and coolant bottles. It is part of the same assembly supporting the electric fan, but there is room for the larger diameter mechanical fan to fit. There is not a separate shroud part for the mechanical fan on the KK. All...
Just following up. My Jeep has had the trouble starting when hot issue for a while now. A few years ago a fuel pump fixed it, but recently (the last year or so) it was back. Well, I recently needed to replace a fuel injector that went bad and I cleaned the carbon out of the throttle body while I...
Once an AC system has been empty for a long time, and potentially exposed to outside humidity, does the whole thing have to be replaced? It’s been non functional for more than 2 years and I don’t know where the leak is.
Today was oil change day. Mileage is 235,383 miles. The Jeep is definitely dirty and beat up by this point. It needs a good wash and interior detail. It also has a bad CV boot on the drivers side axle, an axle seal leak on the passengers side front, and has a decent rear main seal leak. Last...
On my Commander it was the ESIM (emissions pump unit) clipped onto the charcoal canister in back. I also remember that not being very expensive to DIY.
Finding evap hoses that are splitting at the end is free, too. Clip the bad end off and reattach.
^^^ If it were me I think I would give this a shot. The ball joint should have a snap ring that would prevent it from coming out, if it wasn’t tight enough. Dapping… cool, I just learned something new.
Interesting that the LBJ is only loose on one side. If you have a set of calipers, see if the difference is between the two ball joints or between the two knuckles.
If you do end up getting knuckles, I would recommend sourcing OEM from a junkyard, followed by wire-wheeling off the rust...
That’s really strange! As you know the ball joint should have to be pressed in, even though the problem solvers have a snap ring to hold them in place. I’m using MOOG problem solvers on my 2008 and they are great (although in the KK they press into the lower control arm instead of the knuckle)...
Some KK’s had an optional sound system that included a subwoofer on the right hand side of the trunk/boot. These would have had a factory amplifier located under the rear left hand seat. If it’s there I imagine you could use it. If not, there is room for one.
I test drove it for 45 minutes, both city and highway. The engine has good power and idles well too. The Jeep runs smoother than before. I’m calling this one fixed.
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