Rebuilding JBA Adjust a Struts - part numbers

lfhoward · Dec 12, 2024

While it is possible to rebuild our JBA coilovers, it is harder than it seems. Ian at Wheel Every Weekend had to tig weld schrader valves to the top of the shock housings to be able to refill them with nitrogen. He told me he did not plan to refurbish any more JBA adjust a struts because of the time and effort mine took. It didn’t seem cost effective for him. But, it wouldn’t hurt to ask.

To your question about shipping, WEW sent me a shipping label so that the cost was rolled in with the coilover rebuild. I did not take my old springs off because I didn’t want them shooting off when I unscrewed the two large diameter nuts holding them in place. Actually, I was not able to get some of that hardware to move, so I shipped them with the springs on and the top plates on too. It was extra weight and extra cost, but I also wanted Ian’s opinion on how bad the springs were and if they could be reused. He recommended against reusing them, so we got Eibach springs to replace them. The old springs were 2010 vintage and lasted until 2023. Not too shabby. The rears are still the JBA lift springs, and they are still holding up even though I tow a trailer.

JJam2112 · Dec 12, 2024

lfhoward said:
While it is possible to rebuild our JBA coilovers, it is harder than it seems. Ian at Wheel Every Weekend had to tig weld schrader valves to the top of the shock housings to be able to refill them with nitrogen. He told me he did not plan to refurbish any more JBA adjust a struts because of the time and effort mine took. It didn’t seem cost effective for him. But, it wouldn’t hurt to ask.

To your question about shipping, WEW sent me a shipping label so that the cost was rolled in with the coilover rebuild. I did not take my old springs off because I didn’t want them shooting off when I unscrewed the two large diameter nuts holding them in place. Actually, I was not able to get some of that hardware to move, so I shipped them with the springs on and the top plates on too. It was extra weight and extra cost, but I also wanted Ian’s opinion on how bad the springs were and if they could be reused. He recommended against reusing them, so we got Eibach springs to replace them. The old springs were 2010 vintage and lasted until 2023. Not too shabby. The rears are still the JBA lift springs, and they are still holding up even though I tow a trailer.

Thanks for the info, About how much did it cost you to do the rebuild, and how much for the extra springs you added. That would give me a ballpark of what to expect since i already have my new springs.

also for your rear springs, how many coils did it have, just want to confirm mine are the 4 in

lfhoward · Dec 12, 2024

There’s a pic of the rear springs in a box in one of the previous posts I made here on page 2. ^^^

In terms of cost, plan on about $1000 for rebuilding the shocks, cleaning the coilovers up, repainting them, adding new springs, and shipping. Guessing, I would estimate new springs were somewhere around $400, but I don’t totally recall.

I also did my control arm bushings, ball joints, and sway bar bushings at the same time, which added to the $1000 above. I did all that work myself with my shop press, which saved a bunch on labor. An alignment was also needed at the end of the process.

Homeward_Bound · Jul 7, 2025

Great info here. Thanks LF! I am going to have to put together something similar since my coilover didn't just blow out, it snapped at the fork. What you got here is going to help immensely!

lfhoward · Jul 7, 2025

Homeward_Bound said:
Great info here. Thanks LF! I am going to have to put together something similar since my coilover didn't just blow out, it snapped at the fork. What you got here is going to help immensely!

Hi @Homeward_Bound,

I just had the drivers side coilover rod snap at the top of the clevis fork too. I considered rebuilding the kit a second time using brand new Bilstein M7 coilovers and JBA’s existing hardware, but needed to get back on the road asap so went with OME springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks, and 1/4” top plates spacers by ATHfab.

It’s interesting to hear that your adjust a strut lift’s failure mode was the same. I guess that 13+ years is a bit much to ask from a set of coilover shocks! Metal fatigue in the shock rod is the weakest link. But JBA’s top plates and clevis forks are still good, as are the Eibach springs.

Homeward_Bound · Jul 7, 2025

lfhoward said:
Hi @Homeward_Bound,

I just had the drivers side coilover rod snap at the top of the clevis fork too. I considered rebuilding the kit a second time using brand new Bilstein M7 coilovers and JBA’s existing hardware, but needed to get back on the road asap so went with OME springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks, and 1/4” top plates spacers by ATHfab.

It’s interesting to hear that your adjust a strut lift’s failure mode was the same. I guess that 13+ years is a bit much to ask from a set of coilover shocks! Metal fatigue in the shock rod is the weakest link. But JBA’s top plates and clevis forks are still good, as are the Eibach springs.

Fortunately I had the ability to sit on this issue for a bit and finally got around to start taking things apart. I figure as long as I keep the same diameter spring and similar shock setup, all that really needs to be done is removing the broken piece from the clevis fork and threading in a new coilover. I will be looking at that M7 since you brought it up. I looked at ORI's for gits and shiggles, but can't unthread that lower joint.

The tuning of the correct spring rate is going to be my issue for front and rear. Figured all four corners are due for replacement. Since I got extra weight in the rear to go for the 6 inch springs and shocks and have the ATH bumper squish them down. I emailed JBA for information about the old kits hoping for some info, but got nothing. Then this thread popped up in my searches.

lfhoward · Jul 7, 2025

Yeah, unthreading the broken piece, and the rod on the other side, from the clevis forks will be a challenge. I don’t know if they can be drilled out, or whether using heat would be a no-no because it could weaken the structural steel.

Homeward_Bound · Jul 7, 2025

lfhoward said:
Yeah, unthreading the broken piece, and the rod on the other side, from the clevis forks will be a challenge. I don’t know if they can be drilled out, or whether using heat would be a no-no because it could weaken the structural steel.

As long as the part isn't turning cherry red, it should be fine. Alas I don't have a torch. One tip said to boil it, another to soak it isopropyl alcohol. Currently I have it soaking in PB Blaster. After that, I have a set of rescue bits. Claim to fame is the ability to cut through anything. So use it to make a hole and shove in an easy-out.

Rebuilding JBA Adjust a Struts - part numbers

lfhoward

Wheel. Repair. Repeat.

JJam2112

Full Access Member

lfhoward

Wheel. Repair. Repeat.

Homeward_Bound

Member

lfhoward

Wheel. Repair. Repeat.

Homeward_Bound

Member

lfhoward

Wheel. Repair. Repeat.

Homeward_Bound

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