Recent content by styng88

If it were coming from the passenger seat, I wouln't complain. O:)

Thanks. That's what they were gapped at out of the box, so I'm glad I didn't change them.

My Jeep was in a front ender a while back, (deer) and the tag that tells me what to gap my plugs at is gone. I searched the entire site and came up dry. Anyone?

If you're interested, I have a turn signal switch set-up for a Lib. without foglights. It's the whole part of the column that the levers (washer and TS) mount.

I'm looking for a decent set of aftermarket rotrors because I don't think 50k is that good for a set to need replaced. I've read some bad things about drilled, that some come apart after a while due to the weakness from the drilling. Has anyone experienced this? I was thinking of some slotted...

Broken?

You can get an adapter for this as all newer Mopars are this way. I got mine from ebay for 5 or 6 bucks IIRC.

I looked and didn't see a how to. Is there one for taking the front shocks/struts? Is this a fiarly painless job?

I looked at Rusty's site, and they're only $20? I can even the suspension in my Libby for a mere $20? Will it work on a pre-lowered?

Bedding the pads?? Que?

I like option two. It gives it a rallye-eqsue look that I'm really fond of.

Thanks. I'll hopefully have it back by tomorrow or early next week.

Should we by pads that are NOT lifetime guarantee? I know that early 90s Ford vans had this same problem. If you bought heavy duty pads, the rotors got eaten. If you bought cheap pads, the rotors last a lot longer.

I didn't have a problem until I changed the front brakes. Now it seems that the front rotors are (were) vibrating under hard braking. Did I get too rough pads? I'm thinking that I did.

I wanted to post a pic of the Libby when it was back from the body shop, I guess I can't edit my post. Oh well.