Rear upper control arm source?

[slingworks]

I'll be needing to replace the upper rear control arm on my '05 Liberty soon.

Is there a source for a quality control arm outside of Chrysler dealers? I've bought random control arms from Amazon/Ebay but they never last. Seems like I got around 6mo out of a Chinese control arm before the bushings ripped apart.

 

[lfhoward]

If you would like a bulletproof upper control arm / boomerang, Iron Rock Offroad makes the last one you will ever need. Here’s an eBay link.

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Iron Rock Off Road KJ Liberty Rear Adjustable Control Arm Set | Upper | Rubber Bushings | Mounting Hardware | Private Label

Improve the strength, adjustability, and ride in the rear suspension of your KJ. This bolt in upgrade has great features that will take your KJ to the next level. Bushing angles corrected for lifted KJ's.

ebay.us

 

[seafish]

I'll be needing to replace the upper rear control arm on my '05 Liberty soon.

Is there a source for a quality control arm outside of Chrysler dealers? I've bought random control arms from Amazon/Ebay but they never last. Seems like I got around 6mo out of a Chinese control arm before the bushings ripped apart.

I bought the one from 1AAuto based on my online research and their pricing …ooops…even though I knew there pricing was too good to be true, what I didnt fully realize is that my "research" was based on their marketing.

Next time I'll go with the modded one from IronMan that ifhoward recommended… so I wont need to keep replacing it.

 

[slingworks]

I had no idea such control arms existed. $650 is a chunk though. Those junkers I buy on ebay are about $70.
If I could get one of those Iron Rock arms to last 2-3 years that would probably be worth it though, factoring in my time/downtime, etc.

I don't "offroad" but I have a RHD Liberty that I used on mail routes for 3 years. (Im putting it back into service) Around here the routes are long and rough and nothing holds up...

 

[seafish]

If I had known for certain that the IR UCA would fit my non-lifted Jeep, I def would have bought it last time I had the unfortunate rear suspension clunking going on.

Due to its improved design, the Iron Rock UCA will probably last longer then any of the other suspension components on your vehicle. While the labor time to replace the UCA is not huge, doing it is a ****** gritty job (only made better by FIRST pressure washing the undercarriage of your Jeep) and I for one prefer not to repeat jobs dues to cheap parts failing.

 

[lfhoward]

If I had known for certain that the IR UCA would fit my non-lifted Jeep, I def would have bought it last time I had the unfortunate rear suspension clunking going on.

Due to its improved design, the Iron Rock UCA will probably last longer then any of the other suspension components on your vehicle. While the labor time to replace the UCA is not huge, doing it is a ****** gritty job (only made better by FIRST pressure washing the undercarriage of your Jeep) and I for one prefer not to repeat jobs dues to cheap parts failing.

It might be worth giving them a call. The control arms (upper and lower) look adjustable so if you can put them at the right length for a stock Jeep you could be good.

I have only heard good things about IRO over the years, even from Tommudd and that is saying something!

 

[seafish]

It might be worth giving them a call. The control arms (upper and lower) look adjustable so if you can put them at the right length for a stock Jeep you could be

No need to call…I forget who and which thread but someone confirmed fitment of the UCA on their stock KJ

 

[u2slow]

As cheap as the jobber arms are, I have no issue changing it as needed. I'm on my first replacement since original - now 318,000km and a spare new one on my shelf.

Note: if you are lifted, there is a definite tendency to tear bushings due to the angle. I changed them once (in the factory arm) and they did not last. I added the tri-link spacer to level it out, and all was fine after after that.

 

[slingworks]

As cheap as the jobber arms are, I have no issue changing it as needed. I'm on my first replacement since original - now 318,000km and a spare new one on my shelf.

Note: if you are lifted, there is a definite tendency to tear bushings due to the angle. I changed them once (in the factory arm) and they did not last. I added the tri-link spacer to level it out, and all was fine after after that.

That's pretty good life on your UCA seafish. I've not had such luxury.

Mine is a "stock" Liberty other than being RHD, not lifted. Some of the routes i used it on are fairly rough and long. majority gravel/rough roads. Struts/ball joints lasted about a year. Universals about a year. 10ply tires, I could get about 12-14k out of! Yeah I tended to drive too fast...

 

[Turboman280]

Just replaced the rear boomerang with a Moog, was less that $100. Longevity TBD.

 

[desertdriver]

The originals seem to last ok under regular use. I also used the Moog part for replacement on a 2005 after 300,000 miles and have been happy with it so far (about 20,000 miles.) Mostly on road, with some dirt roads mixed in. Finally got around to replacing the original rear springs and it made a bigger difference than the boomerang did for handling.

 

[Shankster]

I went with Moog too ($92.79 on Rock Auto right now). Who knows if they're any better than the no-name stuff and I don't have enough miles on it to know if it will be durable. In my experience rubber bushings on the cheap stuff is of poor quality and seem to perish a lot faster than factory bushings (at least on a Ford). Another reason I went with Moog is because their Liberty "Problem Solver" front lower ball joints sure seem superior to others - they have a good reputation and definitely look beefier than stock - I just assumed (possibly wrongly) that the ball joint on the Moog rear upper control arm was also superior to others.

 

[slingworks]

I went with Moog too ($92.79 on Rock Auto right now). Who knows if they're any better than the no-name stuff and I don't have enough miles on it to know if it will be durable. In my experience rubber bushings on the cheap stuff is of poor quality and seem to perish a lot faster than factory bushings (at least on a Ford). Another reason I went with Moog is because their Liberty "Problem Solver" front lower ball joints sure seem superior to others - they have a good reputation and definitely look beefier than stock - I just assumed (possibly wrongly) that the ball joint on the Moog rear upper control arm was also superior to others.

I believe I had a Moog UCA on it when I bought it some years back. I remember it being a little heavier than the Chinese ones on Amazon, but the rubber bushings didn't last much longer than any other. I actually kept that one, the ball joint in it was still good and I thought if I ever were to try to press in some bushings I'd have the option. I thought about buying a "Delco" factory one from Rock auto, looks like they're made in EU? I have yet to buy a replacement, driving it right now on the last one with chewed out bushings. I did have a set of ball joints that I put in my wife's Liberty probably 10 years ago and I think they're still on it. (Although, I'm cannibalizing it for parts this year).

 

[derekj]

As cheap as the jobber arms are, I have no issue changing it as needed. I'm on my first replacement since original - now 318,000km and a spare new one on my shelf.

Note: if you are lifted, there is a definite tendency to tear bushings due to the angle. I changed them once (in the factory arm) and they did not last. I added the tri-link spacer to level it out, and all was fine after after that.

Where did you get the tri link spacer from?

 

[KJowner]

Where did you get the tri link spacer from?

I thought I saw a set of drawings for one on here somewhere

 

[derekj]

I thought I saw a set of drawings for one on here somewhere

I have been looking but have not had any luck - would like to find a few pictures so I can get one made up.

 

[KJowner]

It's raining here so I'm drinking tea, clutch change abandoned until the weather improves.
I had a look on the Internet and found this.

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[KJowner]

I'd want to weld some extra steel in to box it in for a bit more strength but I'm a belt & braces man!

 

[u2slow]

Where did you get the tri link spacer from?

Mine is from JBA, but the pics @KJowner posted up is a direct copy imho.

 

[derekj]

Excellent! Thanks!