Tried to start my lift today. Can't get any further than trying to remove the tie rod and UBJ. Nuts are off, tried applying pressure from underneath with jack to remove tie rod while wacking with hammer nothing doing. Got discouraged and tried to move onto UBJ after brake rotor removal. Same thing it won't budge. Got nut off and whacked till I turned blue in the face, nothing doing. Even my brake disk came undone with the vibration. Damn rust, it's really bad (2002 near salt water). I don't care about the UBJ since I have a new UCA waiting to be installed. Starting to think I can't get this done on my own(banghead).
Damn joints
- Thread starter GranpaQB
- Start date
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CzarKJ
Full Access Member
PB Blaster is your friend. Soak affected areas and let sit. What lift are you putting in btw? I did not have to take my UBJ or tie rod off for my iron man lift.
Bought 2 cans of PB Blaster. Will put some more on and let it soak tonight. Ironman springs, JBA arms, top plates, bilsteins. Been collecting parts all winter and finally the snow is melting away. I'll give it another go tomorrow.
Jo6pak
Full Access Member
If you are not reusing the old UBJ, use a pickle fork.
Luke
Interloper
I needed this the first time I took her apart. Same reason ... tons of rust. Works like a charm. Note : universal tie rod end pullers will not work ... too short.
Tie Rod Puller | Princess Auto
P.S. Canadian Tire has a kit that they will loan you for free. "Front End Service kit" they call it.. the above tool is included in it. :waytogo:
Tie Rod Puller | Princess Auto
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P.S. Canadian Tire has a kit that they will loan you for free. "Front End Service kit" they call it.. the above tool is included in it. :waytogo:
LONGJEEPOWNER
Full Access Member
Yup! Just like Jo6pak said "Pickle Fork"
Gyro
Full Access Member
You should leave the nuts on,but loosened so things(tie rod & LCA) don't go flying when they break loose.
Gyro
Gyro
Went to Canadian Tire like Luke suggested, thanks. No puller but I got a fork. Before I start whacking again went to loosen UCA. How do you get at the bolt drivers side closest to the driver? Damn steering column.
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
Ah that takes a nice U joint a few extensions for your socket set. Plus a lot of patience. I'm sure you will get it.
Enough extensions ( plus like Cz said one good swivel) to get the rachet up next to the radiator, passenger side 10-15 minutes, drivers side 20-25
Looks way harder than it is actaully
Then it's back to Canadian Tire to get some extensions (on sale anyway). Hardest part is trying to get socket over nut with the brake lines in the way.
Takes all of 5 seconds to loosen the brake line if need be to get in there easier. Done several here with no issues, first time it looks almost impossible, but nothing to it
Make sure you get a good swivel that doesn't flop all over
OK UCA completely gone. Clevis bolt and lower fork bolt removed. 4 top strut bolts removed. Left tie rod attached. Now where do I start whacking because nothing is moving? Do I whack the forks towards the outside to get the strut assembly to drop?
Back end is done. I'm stuck in the front end trying to get my forks back in place. I have straps but I can't seem to come even close to getting it in. I use a strap to get the lower control arm as low as possible but I'm still an inch off. Need to compress the strut assembly somehow I guess is next step.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Remove just the upper sway bar link bolt - that will give you more drop so you can get the lower clevis bolt in place. Don't tighten the upper clevis bolt until you get the lower one in.
Bob
Luke
Interloper
I take it that you never found this thread 
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-install-frankenlift-*lots-pictures*-complete-29193/
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-install-frankenlift-*lots-pictures*-complete-29193/
