Tensioner

I think I'm due for a new tensioner and belt for my 06 since I just hit 70k, whats the best brand that I should be going for or does it not matter too much?
I found:
Factory $80
Dayco $60ish?
And what brand belt should I be looking for?
I was just checking Rockauto and can get the Dayco tensioner and Dayco belt for $71 shipped, or should I be looking for a better belt?
Gates $6 more, Goodyear Gatorback Poly $8 more
Thanks!

This link: May help
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45575&highlight=EPDM
Just make sure that the belt is an EPDM. (Gates is good)
I would replace both tensioner and Idler pulley together.

LibertyTC said:

This link: May help
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45575&highlight=EPDM
Just make sure that the belt is an EPDM. (Gates is good)
I would replace both tensioner and Idler pulley together.

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Thanks for link and it is the Tensioner/Idler complete assembly that I was looking at, sorry should of been more clear!

Looks like I will be ordering the Dayco tensioner/idler assembly and the Gate Micro V belt, although it does not say if its an EPDM belt or not...
Gates part # K060863?

The Gates Micro V Series IS an EPDM.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=5148&location_id=5213
I also came up with that part number from their look up for your 06 KJ.

LibertyTC said:

The Gates Micro V Series IS an EPDM.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=5148&location_id=5213
I also came up with that part number from their look up for your 06 KJ.

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Alright cool thanks much and I will be ordering them tomorrow!!

Cool take some photos...before and during install and post back some quality products and work.
It will sound real quiet under the hood after completion.

LibertyTC said:

Cool take some photos...before and during install and post back some quality products and work.
It will sound real quiet under the hood after completion.

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I will snap some pics when it gets here and during install!
Thats what im hoping for, as it started getting a little colder here I could hear it at start up so I figured it was time!
Just that and possibly new brakes up front and oil change, and I will be ready for winter!

Awesome, look forward to the set of photos. Ya winter is around the corner, and few weeks ago I had the dealer flush the rad. Then it was onto doing the Front and rear diff lube, and transfer case ATF+4. I am ready if it should snow tons now. Even put on new Trico winter wiper blades!

LibertyTC said:

Awesome, look forward to the set of photos. Ya winter is around the corner, and two weeks ago I had the dealer flush the rad. Then it was onto doing the Front and rear diff lube, and transfer case ATF+4. I am ready if it should snow tons now. Even put on new Trico winter wiper blades!

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Ah yeah I almost forgot I may need a set of wipers too, good reminder!

Ordered! I got the tensioner for $54 after 3 day shipping from rockauto.com and ended up getting the belt off amazon for $28 with free two day shipping, since rockauto didn't have a belt in stock at my closest location and wanted an additional $7 to ship from another spot.

Good Price and you hopefully will have it by the weekend or early next week.
The gates belt here is $42 at a shop.
How many miles on your KJ now bmrrwolfe?

LibertyTC said:

Good Price and you hopefully will have it by the weekend or early next week.
The gates belt here is $42 at a shop.
How many miles on your KJ now bmrrwolfe?

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Just about 70,500. I got the 06 last july/august with 64K so since I don't drive to far the mileage should slowly level back down to the average miles per year.

Well that is good preventative maintenance you are doing. You will probably find that the belt is still usable, so keep it as a spare. The tensioner and Idler seems to get noisy well before the belt goes. Those EPDM belts have really excellent service life, can't say the same for tensioner unit. In the service schedule, inspections and possible replacement starts at 45,000 miles and each 5,000 after that, so replacing at 70k is about right.
When I reach 60k on my 04 I will be doing the belt and tensioner/idler as well.
When you bought the KJ did you have all the service records and or did you change all the driveline fluids, lubes in diffs,transmission etc yet? Keep in mind the rear diff also needs new lube ever 12,000 miles.

LibertyTC said:

Well that is good preventative maintenance you are doing. You will probably find that the belt is still usable, so keep it as a spare. The tensioner and Idler seems to get noisy well before the belt goes. Those EPDM belts have really excellent service life, can't say the same for tensioner unit. In the service schedule, inspections and possible replacement starts at 45,000 miles and each 5,000 after that, so replacing at 70k is about right.
When I reach 60k on my 04 I will be doing the belt and tensioner/idler as well.
When you bought the KJ did you have all the service records and or did you change all the driveline fluids, lubes in diffs,transmission etc yet? Keep in mind the rear diff also needs new lube ever 12,000 miles.

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Well it didn't all happen right away. I got it straight for my 00 cherokee knowing it needed work since it had a CEL light ABS ESP etc.all lit up on the dash So first was new front speed sensors and wheel bearing and a set of new matching tires the day after I got it. Then 2 O2 sensors and all the lights were gone. Then oil change new intake, front diff and rear diff fluids. My dad managed a chrysler bodyshop/service department so it was all checked out and everything was good they said the ****** fluid was clean and good for atleast another year. Transfer case they said looked clean but that's still on my list to do. Also front driveshaft CV joint was done and I'm sure I'm forgoting some things and of course oil changes every 3k almost on the dot that I do myself with a nice STP filter and whatever good brand oil is on sale.
I wanna do the belt and tensioner assembly, front brakes Transfer case fluid before winter and then ****** fluid will be done the dealership in the spring.
Also parking brake shoes are on the list to get done!

Woosh that's a long post from my phone haha

bmrrwolfe said:

... Transfer case fluid before winter and then ****** fluid will be done the dealership in the spring.

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Xfer case fluid change is possibly the easiest job to do!! IMHO easyer than an oil change!!

Easy and cheap, well cheap to me as I'm using DEXIII (damn cheap here) but over there I guess ATF+4 (as everyone knows any brand will do) ain't that expensive... So, while one is checking the fluid, I'd change that , for the peace of mind. Takes just say 10 mins.

Most guys just dip one finger, look at the fluid and say ' it's OK'.... NO, drop it on a pan and You'll see the truth.... ( did that to a friend's KJ, 5 Years, same mileage...came out pitch black ).

According to Chrysler ' color is not an indication of fluid condition ' ( well, that's the meaning) ..... Diyman is speechless.

Sorry everyone if I'm a bit 'off threaded', just trying to help....

About the tensioner, You've apparently made Your choice, but I went OEM, not that I could not find DAYCO here, just my choice. Same for the belt, Mopar and it is EPDM.

diyman said:

Xfer case fluid change is possibly the easiest job to do!! IMHO easyer than an oil change!!

Easy and cheap, well cheap to me as I'm using DEXIII (damn cheap here) but over there I guess ATF+4 (as everyone knows any brand will do) ain't that expensive... So, while one is checking the fluid, I'd change that , for the peace of mind. Takes just say 10 mins.

Most guys just dip one finger, look at the fluid and say ' it's OK'.... NO, drop it on a pan and You'll see the truth.... ( did that to a friend's KJ, 5 Years, same mileage...came out pitch black ).

According to Chrysler ' color is not an indication of fluid condition ' ( well, that's the meaning) ..... Diyman is speechless.

Sorry everyone if I'm a bit 'off threaded', just trying to help....

About the tensioner, You've apparently made Your choice, but I went OEM, not that I could not find DAYCO here, just my choice. Same for the belt, Mopar and it is EPDM.

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If your using DEXIII in the t-case you need to be changing it every 6000miles,and DEXIII the color is very importrant as it is dino oil while ATF+4 is full synthetic.

Props for the OEM belt,very good choice(as it Gates) but the OEM tensioner is crap(went through 3 in 20,000miles).

tjkj2002 said:

If your using DEXIII in the t-case you need to be changing it every 6000miles,and DEXIII the color is very importrant as it is dino oil while ATF+4 is full synthetic.

Props for the OEM belt,very good choice(as it Gates) but the OEM tensioner is crap(went through 3 in 20,000miles).

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Hey TJKJ you still down to sell the skid?
let me know!

Fine, tjkj2002, agreed. 6000 miles no issue, I might even go for a ' at every oil change'. I'm a bit confused anyway.
I know gear oil is not atf/dex oil, but, if I haven't got it wrong, You maintain syn gear oils last even less than dinos, unlike engine oils... So how does an atf/dex perform if syntetic, like a motor or a gear oil? I've already taken Your advice and will go back to dino in my 8.25 very soon (GL-5 of course), so if You mean 6000 miles than that's what I'll do ( or go back to atf+4, just a matter of $$$).
I my more than stupid opinion, changing fluid frequently might (just might) help spotting issues before it's too late, but that's just IMHO.

Yes, I guess OE quality might vary a lot too, apparently my OE tensioner performed so so but bmrrwolfe's lasted over 70 kmiles, whereas it looks like Yous were 'cursed' maybe nowadays it's just a matter of luck, who knows...:

diyman said:

Fine, tjkj2002, agreed. 6000 miles no issue, I might even go for a ' at every oil change'. I'm a bit confused anyway.
I know gear oil is not atf/dex oil, but, if I haven't got it wrong, You maintain syn gear oils last even less than dinos, unlike engine oils... So how does an atf/dex perform if syntetic, like a motor or a gear oil? I've already taken Your advice and will go back to dino in my 8.25 very soon (GL-5 of course), so if You mean 6000 miles than that's what I'll do ( or go back to atf+4, just a matter of $$$).
I my more than stupid opinion, changing fluid frequently might (just might) help spotting issues before it's too late, but that's just IMHO.

Yes, I guess OE quality might vary a lot too, apparently my OE tensioner performed so so but bmrrwolfe's lasted over 70 kmiles, whereas it looks like Yous were 'cursed' maybe nowadays it's just a matter of luck, who knows...:

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I gotta add my sister got her KJ at about 50k, shes at 75K now with what I believe is the factory tensioner and belt, a tleast its a MOPAR belt, but hers is quiet as can be.

diyman said:

Fine, tjkj2002, agreed. 6000 miles no issue, I might even go for a ' at every oil change'. I'm a bit confused anyway.
I know gear oil is not atf/dex oil, but, if I haven't got it wrong, You maintain syn gear oils last even less than dinos, unlike engine oils... So how does an atf/dex perform if syntetic, like a motor or a gear oil? I've already taken Your advice and will go back to dino in my 8.25 very soon (GL-5 of course), so if You mean 6000 miles than that's what I'll do ( or go back to atf+4, just a matter of $$$).
I my more than stupid opinion, changing fluid frequently might (just might) help spotting issues before it's too late, but that's just IMHO.

Yes, I guess OE quality might vary a lot too, apparently my OE tensioner performed so so but bmrrwolfe's lasted over 70 kmiles, whereas it looks like Yous were 'cursed' maybe nowadays it's just a matter of luck, who knows...:

Click to expand...

In a forced oil system(has a oil pump) synthetic works very well,in a splash oil system(no oil pump) synthetic is sub-par.Your t-case actually has a small pump and cooler inside of it,IE it's a forced oil system so synthetic oil will be better then dino oil.