Blower motor resistor pack needs replacement

[QuickSilver]

Just got the word from the mechanic, and he confirmed what I pretty much suspected from my dead blower motor. The resistor pack is dead. I did a forum search here and came up with this handy how-to (HOW TO: Replace the Blower Control Resistor Block). The steps seem fairly simple, but I have a few questions.

1. Just how simple is it? I saw the warning for the airbags, but I don't think I have much to worry about if I disengage the negative battery cable.
   
2. I'm a visual guy, and schematics or diagrams would help me greatly along with the how to article. Does anyone here know where I can secure a copy?
   
3. I want to use a factory OEM part. Any recommendations where I can order the resistor pack/block for a good low price?

 

[Leeann]

Actually, get one for an '05 Sebring at your local autoparts place. They're more robust (been redesigned) and last longer.

Open your glovebox. Pinch in the 2 levers/clips that hold itmat the top, let it down all the way (emptly, of course). Slide it to the right and remove.

The resistor is literally right there in front of you. Unplug (red,slide clip, then pinch and remove) and 2 screws, then pull straight out towards you.

Installation is reverse.

I'll go out and take a photo if you'd prefer.

 

[QuickSilver]

Actually, get one for an '05 Sebring at your local autoparts place. They're more robust (been redesigned) and last longer.

Open your glovebox. Pinch in the 2 levers/clips that hold itmat the top, let it down all the way (emptly, of course). Slide it to the right and remove.

The resistor is literally right there in front of you. Unplug (red,slide clip, then pinch and remove) and 2 screws, then pull straight out towards you.

Installation is reverse.

I'll go out and take a photo if you'd prefer.

Thanks Leann. I actually found this on Google How to fix Jeep Liberty blower motor (resistor) – with pictures

Oh, and now I get it about the parking next to you comments in my first thread. Sure does look like mine!

 

[Leeann]

Good.

Yeah, it was a bit funny

Trust me; it's a TON easier on the Liberty than on an '04 or '02 Sebring convertible (non-mechanical friends' cars). On those, you're laying on your back across the passenger doorsill, working up right over your head. The Liberty's a breeze by comparison.

 

[Luke]

Oh, and now I get it about the parking next to you comments in my first thread. Sure does look like mine!

Oh... your on the inside now there's no going back


P.S. The resistor is an easy yet satisfying repair :grd:

 

[QuickSilver]

Against better advice, I installed an OEM Jeep Liberty blower motor resistor (1st image below) Sunday and had a fan for 15 minutes before the resistor blew again when I turned the selector to setting 4. I contacted Leann who had mentioned using a resistor from a Sebring instead.

I ordered the 2004 Sebring Convertible 2.7L resistor (2nd image below) from Napa Parts and installed it yesterday. The blower is working again, but I'm resisting temptation to take it to setting 4 and will just be content with 3 for now.

FWIW, the Sebring part does look more robust and has a pigtail that may be designed to handle power surges or overloads. The Jeep OEM part does not. The fit is tighter and it may seem like the Sebring part won't fit at first, but just keep at it and try not to force anything. Just work it in slowly and the connectors will snap in.

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[Leeann]

Glad it's working for you!

 

[Billwill]

Against better advice, I installed an OEM Jeep Liberty blower motor resistor (1st image below) Sunday and had a fan for 15 minutes before the resistor blew again when I turned the selector to setting 4. I contacted Leann who had mentioned using a resistor from a Sebring instead.

I ordered the 2004 Sebring Convertible 2.7L resistor (2nd image below) from Napa Parts and installed it yesterday. The blower is working again, but I'm resisting temptation to take it to setting 4 and will just be content with 3 for now.

FWIW, the Sebring part does look more robust and has a pigtail that may be designed to handle power surges or overloads. The Jeep OEM part does not. The fit is tighter and it may seem like the Sebring part won't fit at first, but just keep at it and try not to force anything. Just work it in slowly and the connectors will snap in.

You must be registered for see images

You must be registered for see images attach

At setting 4 the resistors are completely out of the circuit....+12 volts goes to the top of the resistor pack and the negative side that normally has the resistors in series will go direct to ground on setting 4 so it should work fine. Pins 1 and 2 inside the resistor block are supposed to be connected together in any case but maybe they have a fused link between them inside the resistor molding that may blow if the blower draws too much power at setting 4....if it fails again a t setting 4 I would join a fuse across the pins 1 and 2 and see if it works again.

The Sebring package appears to me to have an external link on the top edge which just may be a fusable link or a diode to handle back EMF from the blower....we never got the Sebring in SA so I cannot check the part out personally.

 

[oldbusrep]

2011 Liberty, no fan so no heat or AC!

I don't work on cars normally but the fan quit working and it's not the fuse so is it the resistor pack? What else could it be? Help?

 

[Billwill]

I don't work on cars normally but the fan quit working and it's not the fuse so is it the resistor pack? What else could it be? Help?

It should work on setting 4...the resistors are completely bypassed.

Check Fuse 1 (40 A) in the PDC and fuse 24 (10 A) in the fuse panel inside the cabin

So either a fuse is blown or try swapping over the "Blower Motor Relay" inside the PDC which is the fuse box under the hood....there should be identical relays alongside this one. You should have +12 volts on pin 87 of the blower relay...flip over the relay panel (PDC) to measure this point.

Failing this you need to put a voltmeter across the blower motor while the control is set to 4 and the ignition is ON.

Check that you get +12 volts across the blower terminals...if not then move the black lead of your meter to a clean chassis point and see if you now get +12 volts....this could mean that the ground has gone missing. The ground goes to the resistor block assembly and you could have some bad connections.

Otherwise if the voltage does show across the blower terminals then physically move the blower blade to see if the blower motor has perhaps seized up solid!

The fuse numbers that I have stated here may not be valid for your 2011 Liberty....you need to ask about your problem in the KK section!

 

[oldbusrep]

2011 Liberty, no fan so no heat or AC!

How do i know that's what the problem is?