Upper Control Arm's (UCA's) Mevotech TTX or Moog Problem Solver

BreeOge

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LOL, includes bearing , this is a one caption covers everything
Bearings are in strut mounts, since we do not have struts we also do not have bearings in the top mount
calling them strut mounts whith that description just confuses more than it helps

Well that explains a lot lol..
 

tommudd

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Ok after a LOOONG TIME I purchased all the above /suggested parts and started disassembling and reinstalling the new parts. The rear is all done.
After compressing/assembling the new struts and springs they seem to be the same length as the stock ones - is this right?

See link to pictures
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oGvtCEes7ui1SA1m7


LOL, common thought for a few, your shock controls length at this point, shock is only so long, plus you are comparing a 310 lb rated spring against a 400 lb spring, now, common sense comes into play, and says it will hold up more weight and so gives lift


and you countersunk the bolts on the hockey pucks , oh no
 
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Mytmouse

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LOL, common thought for a few, your shock controls length at this point, shock is only so long, plus you are comparing a 310 lb rated spring against a 400 lb spring, now, common sense comes into play, and says it will hold up more weight and so gives lift


and you countersunk the bolts on the hockey pucks , oh no

Thank you tommudd - Your just the one I wanted to respond- Just checking making sure all is right.
I was thinking that, but.also wonding if it was going to ride like a tank now. We did have to compress the OME springs quite a lot to fit them to the stock replacement struts.

Yes I did counter sink the bolts for the hockey pucks. Was I not supposed to?
Close up pic
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1pLu59G6AgXeqPzS7

I'm at a stand still now, I have to order two MORE lower front ball joints, as we damaged them when trying to put them in.

Also while I have you -I wanted to confirm what position/placement should the ball joint be I to access the grease fitting. I believe I saw a response on here that to place like this picture
https://photos.app.goo.gl/movvaaArVUscShDj9

I had to change one of the rear brake calipers too as I found the piston was damaged

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JcVK4mruK8AcagYs7
 
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tommudd

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Yes point the grease fitting straight forward, makes it way easier to remember to grease it , well even easy to grease it
with new suspension , those springs etc it
On the hockey pucks , I never countersink them due to if you need to remove its harder due to rust, dirt etc
 

Mytmouse

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Yes point the grease fitting straight forward, makes it way easier to remember to grease it , well even easy to grease it
with new suspension , those springs etc it
On the hockey pucks , I never countersink them due to if you need to remove its harder due to rust, dirt etc

Ooops oh well , too late ... I'll have to deal with that in future then if I have to.

Thanks again TOMMUDD !

So all is well, Well until the new ball joints come in - I think I'm going to take them to someone to have them pressed in proper like...

I measured at each fender flare before, once done I'll remeasure - getting excited to see end result...
 

Mytmouse

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What tire size would I be able to go with this set up now?
I have Cooper Discovery A/T's 235/70R16 now , just a bit wider than stock...

Also while I have everything open and access I was thinking of doing the pinch weld mod.

I saw a nice write up HOW TO: Pound pinch welds, stop fender rubbing...
Discussion in 'How To' started by csukoh78, Dec 9, 2007. BUT Pictures on thread no longer show.
This write up on the pinch weld mod sounds clean and sounds not to look like a hack job like others I've seen...
Just the plastic melting /mending back to look like no cuts/seems confuses me... I'd like more info pictures to know what I'm REALLY doing...
 
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tommudd

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245-75-16
265-70-16
both same height but 265-70s are wider
if staying with stock wheels go 245-75-16s, you will lose some power and gas mileage though if you do not regear but....
could go 255-70-16 bit shorter than above
 

Mytmouse

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245-75-16
265-70-16
both same height but 265-70s are wider
if staying with stock wheels go 245-75-16s, you will lose some power and gas mileage though if you do not regear but....
could go 255-70-16 bit shorter than above
Thanx once again Tom. I greatly value your guidance, experience/wisdome...

I'm not ready to mess with gearing (yet). Just looking to get good looking size tire w/o sacrificing power/milage. So that would be the 255-70-16's ?

Also while I have everything open and access I was thinking of doing the pinch weld mod.

I saw a nice write up HOW TO: Pound pinch welds, stop fender rubbing...
Discussion in 'How To' started by csukoh78, Dec 9, 2007. BUT Pictures on thread no longer show.
This write up on the pinch weld mod sounds clean and sounds not to look like a hack job like others I've seen...
Just the plastic melting /mending back to look like no cuts/seems confuses me... I'd like more info pictures to know what I'm REALLY doing...

Or would I even need to do that for the 255-70-16's ?
 
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jeeptorino68

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Yes you will need the pinchweld mod for the 255 70 16s, thats what I run.
Regear would still be good in the future but it was tolerable on stock gearing for me
 

Mytmouse

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Yes you will need the pinchweld mod for the 255 70 16s, thats what I run.
Regear would still be good in the future but it was tolerable on stock gearing for me
Thanx jeeptorino68,
Got it, pretty straight forward mod,
It's Just the plastic melting /mending back to look like no cuts/seems confuses me... I'd like more info pictures to know what I'm REALLY doing...
 

tommudd

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Thanx jeeptorino68,
Got it, pretty straight forward mod,
It's Just the plastic melting /mending back to look like no cuts/seems confuses me... I'd like more info pictures to know what I'm REALLY doing...
Posted pictures on here and LOSTJEEPs years ago
still have them somewhere
its not hard at all
 

Mytmouse

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Posted pictures on here and LOSTJEEPs years ago
still have them somewhere
its not hard at all
Thanx , I have a heat gun , and I just picked up a plastic welder from Harbor freight ( the cheaper hot iron type) to help weld /smooth the plastic together. Hoping to get a clean smooth finished result.
 

jeeptorino68

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I just overlapped the plastic used screws to hold it together and smoothed it over with black rtv silicone...

Early models dont have the grease shields you are fine without
 

tommudd

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Thanx , I have a heat gun , and I just picked up a plastic welder from Harbor freight ( the cheaper hot iron type) to help weld /smooth the plastic together. Hoping to get a clean smooth finished result.
No need at all for plastic welder,
just heating it up with a heat gun gets it plenty hot to melt and smooth back over , just do not cut pieces clear off, heat and bend up out of the way
when done beating the Ex, heat again and smooth everything back down over
 

tommudd

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Measure middle of the wheel to bottom of flare to compare
Looks good, great job
 

Mytmouse

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Thank you TOMMUDD

Measurements from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender flare

LF 35, 3/4" ---- RF 35, 3/4"


LR 35" ---- RR 35, 1/8"

Now just need to get an alignment, see how the plow fits, & new plow lights.... .......
 
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tommudd

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Thank you TOMMUDD

Measurements from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender flare

LF 35, 3/4" ---- RF 35, 3/4"


LR 35" ---- RR 35, 1/8"

Now just need to get an alignment, see how the plow fits, & new plow lights.... .......

WRONG MEASUREMENTS YOU DO NOT HAVE OVER 16 INCHES OF LIFT
 
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