Upper Control Arm's (UCA's) Mevotech TTX or Moog Problem Solver

Mytmouse

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1st let me say - Sorry all - I'm starting a NEW THREAD from on-going discussion/thread: Driveway Snow plowing.....

Also I apologize up front, I'm still new to the Jeep Liberty scene, still gathering knowledge from seasoned/experienced good people like yourselves, which is why I'm here asking so many questions.
This may have been covered (prob. multiple times) before.

I Just wanted opinions/advice on this. I need to change the upper and lower ball joints on my 2005 Jeep Liberty I have. The boots are ripped, but NO play yet in the joints .

I'm trying to get information to make a decision on OEM Replacement UCA's
I'm looking via Rock Auto (where I intend on getting other items) at either the Mevotech TTX (greaseable w/ Poly Body bushings or Moog Problem Solver NON greasable.

Also while I'm taking everything apart, I'm going to replace the Struts & Shocks/do a 2.5" OME spring lift. The Liberty just looks a bit WIMPY at the stock height and the bit of lift with the 927 OME front springs will help me with my Driveway plow & with the snow (I snow plow Driveway's like 2% of the time, and MOSTLY use the Liberty as a SOCCER DAD TAXI).
It seems in the Jeep world there are really good upper control arms (UCA's) from/made by JBA that have replaceable & greaseable Moog ball joints made for lifts/off roading, BUT are a crazy $400 a pr. If not doing a crazy lift or no lift at all, which I do not really need. I found and heard others getting from Rock Auto OEM replacement UCA's, either MOOG p/n CK3198 $146 a pr. - But they're NON-GREASEABLE, or MEVOTECH Terrain Tough TTX p/n CTXK3198 GREASEABLE and have poly body bushing also for $146 a pr.
(I know the JBA's are the BEST choice, Moog is a great brand which I usually go for (but these are not greaseable) , I'm not sure about MEVOTECH?)
There was one person on the forum (I believe jeeptoino68) who responded that he used the MEVOTECH UCA's. I tried to reach out to him to see how they're still holding up, how was the fitment/install, and any issues, - but no response - yet.
He supplied a MevoTech Control arms video. They sound great, just not sure it's marketing ploy or if they are what they say they are.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The lower Ball Joints MOOG has a GREASEABLE replaceable ball joint - so no brainer there...

I'm also trying to make sure I have everything covered for the intended Struts & Shocks/do a 2.5" OME spring lift

This is from an on-going discussion/thread :
Driveway Snow plowing

https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/driveway-snow-plowing.64548/page-3

LAST COMMENTS:

↑tommudd said: [URL='https://www.jeepkj.com/goto/post?id=758806#post-758806']↑[/URL]
Upper ball joints are built into the upper control arm, you have to replace the whole arm unless you have the JBA UCA's
As far as lowers not that bad really , you can rent a ball joint press from autozone etc, well you give them money they give it back when you return it
I just remove the whole spindle, throw it in the vice and wham, bam thank ya mam , its done

Use only good greaseable LBJs from Moog


Thanks once again Tommudd !
Yeah I looked into it (You Tube) not too bad - how bad is it to get the axle out of the spindle and what size nut/socket is it? I didn't catch that on any video's I watched..

So other than maybe an alignment and maybe coming across other worn out parts, is this everything you think I'm going to need?

Also if you don't think I really need the JBA UCA's ($400 pair) for the lift reasons, maybe I could save some cash by buying OEM replacement UCA's (like MOOG CK3198 replacements $146 pr NON-greaseable), I also came across MEVOTECH terrain tough TTX pair p/n CTXK3198. GREASEABLE also for $146 pr) (I know the JBA's are the better choice, Moog is a good brand (but not greaseable) , I'm not sure about MEVOTECH?) Like others have mentioned on the forum.
And then put the saved money towards other items?
Such as:

For ease of installation, If I wanted to have the spring and struts pre-assembled before disassembling the Libby to use the existing mounts/hardware etc. I would just need to add upper left and right strut mounts to my parts list (any recommendations) Moog p/n K3189 front right $63, p/n K3190 front left $65 (notes say they include bearing, not sure about isolators)?
And
Maybe Isolators REAR upper & lower (Moog upper p/n K160017. $24 pr. lower p/n K160018. $36 pr),
and front (not sure mounts would come with new ones Moog p/n K3186. $30. pr) ?
My friend has a nice spring compressor (wall mounted) or I could take all the new parts to a shop w/ a spring compressor and pay to have put together.

And NOW LOWER BALL JOINTS too (Moog K80767 $70 pair ) ?

On top of ;

Front springs OME 927 $183 pr
Rear springs OME 948 $182 pr

Front struts Bilstein p/n 24139168 $88 ea. = $176
Rear shocks Bilstein p/n 33185859 $84 ea. = $168

That's just under $1150 so far...

I already purchased the teraflex front bumpstops p/n 1903200 , and four (4) hockey pucks for the rear bump stops.
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I also Have to do Brakes all around - which I already picked up new rotors (4) and Pads for fronts & backs..
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Oh, I also have the infamous gas burp problem with the ethanol in the gas around my area.
So I will be doing the ;
HOW TO: fix the KJ fuel burp plague!

https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/how-to-fix-the-kj-fuel-burp-plague.57056/

I just got the hose/flapper valve fro AMAZON

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Royy

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I have the Moog PS UCAs. After about 30k miles, they're already in pretty bad shape. Lots of cracks in the bushings, and the boots won't last much longer either.

I don't have experience with those specific Mevotech UCAs. But, for suspension parts I've been moving from Moog to Mevotech little by little. I've been having much better luck with their parts than with Moog lately (just stay away from their cheap line).
 

mrlavalamp

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The mevotech guys really love their hype/buzzwords, and that makes me very nervous. I worry that they are spending more time and energy on MARKETING over product design and quality manufacturing. Only time will tell though, and I hear of more and more folks using them.

I recently used a bunch of moog problem solvers parts and only issue I had was they left out a single grease nipple on one so I had to go find one. Everything was well made and "right", its got about 10k miles on it so too early for long term results.

You are spending enough to lift it just about (I spent ~1500 including the UCA's), if you are on the fence about doing one you may just want to do it. The JBA UCA's are a pretty penny but they solve a lot of issues (strength, alignment, rebuild able/replaceable ball joint).

Regarding assembling the front spring/shock yourself. If you have access to proper size spring compressor with the correct tooling to hold the spring well I would go for it. Bonus if you have access to someone who knows how to use it (your buddy?). If you do it alone, it is not for the faint of heart though, I have done loads of them on the ground using the standard tool for cars and the like, not even close to what compressing and assembling these are like. After doing it I can see why the warning about people getting injured or even killed doing this are so often repeated.

good luck with the burp. I would think if it was just the flapper in the fill tube that the aftermarket would have made a "problem solver" type part for this by now, but I guess its not going to be that easy for me when I get around to doing this (it is only a rare occurence for me anyways).
 

Mytmouse

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I have the Moog PS UCAs. After about 30k miles, they're already in pretty bad shape. Lots of cracks in the bushings, and the boots won't last much longer either.

I don't have experience with those specific Mevotech UCAs. But, for suspension parts I've been moving from Moog to Mevotech little by little. I've been having much better luck with their parts than with Moog lately (just stay away from their cheap line).

Thanks Royy....
 

Mytmouse

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The mevotech guys really love their hype/buzzwords, and that makes me very nervous. I worry that they are spending more time and energy on MARKETING over product design and quality manufacturing. Only time will tell though, and I hear of more and more folks using them.

I recently used a bunch of moog problem solvers parts and only issue I had was they left out a single grease nipple on one so I had to go find one. Everything was well made and "right", its got about 10k miles on it so too early for long term results.

You are spending enough to lift it just about (I spent ~1500 including the UCA's), if you are on the fence about doing one you may just want to do it. The JBA UCA's are a pretty penny but they solve a lot of issues (strength, alignment, rebuild able/replaceable ball joint).

Regarding assembling the front spring/shock yourself. If you have access to proper size spring compressor with the correct tooling to hold the spring well I would go for it. Bonus if you have access to someone who knows how to use it (your buddy?). If you do it alone, it is not for the faint of heart though, I have done loads of them on the ground using the standard tool for cars and the like, not even close to what compressing and assembling these are like. After doing it I can see why the warning about people getting injured or even killed doing this are so often repeated.

good luck with the burp. I would think if it was just the flapper in the fill tube that the aftermarket would have made a "problem solver" type part for this by now, but I guess its not going to be that easy for me when I get around to doing this (it is only a rare occurence for me anyways).

Thanks mrlavalamp....

This is kind of why I started this thread. I'd like to see how the MEVOTECH's are still holding up, how was the fitment/install, and any issues from ppl who have used them...

I would really love to just get the JBA's, but spending the extra $400 if I don't really need them in my situation (i.e. smaller lift), plus it's kind of tight, unless I wait for my tax return. Their still not off the table for choice....


As far as assembling the front spring/shocks, yes my friend has a nice (SAFE) spring compressor he just said I can help myself to use. I just wanted to make sure that I'm including everything I may need when it comes time to assembling everything.

Would I just need to add upper left and right strut mounts to my parts list, like Moog p/n K3189 front right $63, p/n K3190 front left $65 (notes say they include bearing, not sure about isolators)?
And
Front Isolators, Moog p/n K3186. $30. pr (if not included)... Rock Auto just shows/says Front, doesn't say upper or lower. Are the upper and lower front Isolators the same, so I would need four of them??

And I may need Isolators for the REAR upper & lower (Moog upper p/n K160017. $24 pr. lower p/n K160018. $36 pr)?


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mrlavalamp

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the strut top plates and spring isolators you linked look like all of the stock equivalent to me (without going and finding the part number crossrefence I couldn't say for sure anyways).

If your existing isolators are shot you should replace them, I re-used my isolators but my lift included new taller top plates.

there should be an isolator on top and bottom of each spring.

If they are in good shape, I would re-use what you have. It gets hard to draw the line when you are already going so far on a rebuild.
 

jeeptorino68

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So far so good on the mevotech terrain tough units. Had them on for about a year now, not much more than 5k miles though. And 1 long weekend off road trip. They are performing as expected. I dont think they compete with fabricated units either for stock length or larger lifts (JBA). But I think they are a good, tougher stock style arm
 

Mytmouse

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So far so good on the mevotech terrain tough units. Had them on for about a year now, not much more than 5k miles though. And 1 long weekend off road trip. They are performing as expected. I dont think they compete with fabricated units either for stock length or larger lifts (JBA). But I think they are a good, tougher stock style arm

Thank you for replying jeeptorino68,

No issues with the rubber boots, any Noise, or alignment issues?
I thought I read somewhere the rubber boot of the ball joint may not be as good as others, they may prematurely develop cracking and/or rip. I think it was about the Mevotech I was reading, I've been trying to read up/research as much as I can to make a proper decision.
I think I mentioned I use my Liberty 90% as a soccer dad taxi, not off roading w/big tires, or big lift. I believe Tommudd said it, that with the lift I'm intending to do, OEM UCA's are fine...

You do not need the JBA UCAs at 2.5 inches but is a great upgrade and will need sooner or later even if yours are good now ( they wear out )

So would you say, you would recommend them for MY Situation/my intended Liberty use...?

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tommudd

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Take your springs/ shocks to a shop to have the springs compressed
One of the reasons is thecoils of the springs are too close together for ant " figers " to fit back in
Two, they are much stronger to compress that stock ( 310 lb compared to 400 lb )
Only takes one slip, I've seen springs come loose in a shop and knock chips in concrete block 20 foot away
plus I personally seen many years ago a springs pop out of a spring compressor and put my buddy into a deep coma for several years before he passed away

Most who say they have done springs have only done them on little weak disco cars where you can compress the springs by hand almost
 

Mytmouse

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Are the Front spring Isolators the same for upper and lower, as well as left and right?

My parts list:

UCA's w/ upper ball joints. >> ??? possibly Mevotech (Rock Auto p/n CTXK3198) or Moog (Rock Auto p/n CK3198) $73 ea. x2. OR if I get/find extra CASH JBA UCA's $400 set/pr.

Lower ball joints Moog Rock Auto p/n K80767 $35 EA. x2

Moog front spring Isolators RockAuto p/n k3186 $15 EA. x4?

Moog rear spring Isolators uppers Rock Auto p/n K160017 $12 EA. x2

Moog rear spring Isolators lowers Rock Auto p/n K160018 $18 EA. x2

OME 927 front springs, (I can actually get these on Amazon $181.39) set/pr.

OME 948 rear springs (I can actually get these on Amazon $181.39) set/pr

Bilstein front struts - stock ones -> Stock ones will handle the lift/extra travel of the OME 927's (BILSTEIN Rock Auto p/n 24139168 RockAuto $87.79) x2

Bilstein rear shocks for a 99-04 Dakota 4x4 CLUB CAB (as suggested by Tommudd) (BILSTEIN Rock Auto p/n 33185859 $83.79) x2

Moog strut mount front right
Rock Auto p/n K3189 $63 x1

Moog strut mount front left Rock Auto p/n K3190 $65
x1

I already purchased/have:

Teraflex front bumpstops ->
p/n # 1903200 Front Bump Stop for 02-07 Jeep Liberty KJ at Quadratec.com $23 ea. x2
Hockey puck 4 Pack. $12

They look good now but, If needed :

Outer TIE ROD Left Rock Auto p/n ES3535 $25 x1


Outer TIE ROD Right Rock Auto p/n ES3536 $27 x1



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Mytmouse

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Take your springs/ shocks to a shop to have the springs compressed
One of the reasons is thecoils of the springs are too close together for ant " figers " to fit back in
Two, they are much stronger to compress that stock ( 310 lb compared to 400 lb )
Only takes one slip, I've seen springs come loose in a shop and knock chips in concrete block 20 foot away
plus I personally seen many years ago a springs pop out of a spring compressor and put my buddy into a deep coma for several years before he passed away

Most who say they have done springs have only done them on little weak disco cars where you can compress the springs by hand almost

Im soooooo sorry to hear about your buddy... :( I Totally agree with you Tom.

My friend that I mentioned has a shop and this is the spring compressor he has.

https://www.branick.com/product/7600-strut-spring-compressor/

Known as "the standard in the industry," the Branick 7600 handles the heaviest coil-over-shocks, on light trucks and SUV's, without needing additional adaptors. It also has longer handles for extra torque. The multi-positions upper spring hooks can be arranged for ultimate flexibility to fit "factory" coil spring configurations. It has a longer compression stroke that can even handle the Jeep KX Cherokee Trailhawk and an integrated structural ring guard. Whether long, short, narrow, or angled, the 7600 will get it done. Made in the U.S.A.


Otherwise YES I would take some other shop that is also equipped with such type of coil sprin compressor.


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Mytmouse

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Forgive my ignorance but are the Front spring Isolators the same (p/n) for upper and lower, as well as left and right?
 
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BreeOge

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Moog strut mount front right
Rock Auto p/n K3189 $63 x1

Moog strut mount front left Rock Auto p/n K3190 $65
x1


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Looking at your list, as I am building one as well right now. I noticed your Strut mounts, already includes new spring seat insulator and installation hardware to eliminate noise issues. Trying to save ya some money.
 
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Mytmouse

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Looking at your list, as I am building one as well right now. I noticed your Strut mounts, already includes new spring seat insulator and installation hardware to eliminate noise issues. Trying to save ya some money.

Isolator (Insulator).... I wasn't sure, so that's the strut spring isolator? As in, the Moog front spring Isolators RockAuto p/n k3186 at $15 EA ?

If so, I believe that is just the top isolator, no?

I would still need to get the two lower ones?

...
 
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BreeOge

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I am not sure about a lower.. Hell, now I am not sure, i noticed in the Mobar manual it shows one above and below. and they call them Isolator's but yet the product says it contains an insulator. Really need to find out what the bracket is saying is the Insulator. it may be just a piece of rubber that goes between the frame and the bracket? Anyone else know?
 
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Mytmouse

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Ooooo great web site, love the break down picture. Just what I need to see ...

THANKS

Not sure either what's included with the mount

So from the mymoparpart web site the p/n is 52088686AA for #17 ISOLATOR - upper and lower , left and right... (4)

The Moog front spring Isolators RockAuto p/n k3186
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 51726SAA003, 51726SAA013, 51726SFA005, 51920SCC015, 51925SLN005, 51925TK6A01, 52088686AA


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tommudd

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all 4 isolaters are the same
have 3 full sets of them waiting in the garage for me to install
 

Mytmouse

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all 4 isolaters are the same
have 3 full sets of them waiting in the garage for me to install

Thanks again Tom, that's what I started to figure - to get a set of four (4).

Wonder what the Strut Mount is saying is the Insulator? Could it be just a piece of rubber that goes between the frame and the bracket or something?

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Includes Bearing
MOOG® Problem Solver® products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR crew chiefs.

  • Superior rubber to steel bonding for durability
  • High polish chrome steel bearing races
  • Replacement helps restore vehicle handling
  • Includes new spring seat insulator and installation hardware to eliminate noise issues
  • Electroplate and corrosion-resistant coating to help prevent galvanic corrosion
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 52128532AA - Right side
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 52128533AA - Left side

Warranty Information:
Limited Lifetime
 

tommudd

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LOL, includes bearing , this is a one caption covers everything
Bearings are in strut mounts, since we do not have struts we also do not have bearings in the top mount
calling them strut mounts whith that description just confuses more than it helps
 
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