I just left the uhaul place here and the dude said that it would be $280 for the hitch wiring harness and them putting it on and i said well d*mn how much with out yall putting it on and he said $175 hitch and wiring harness. I want to know if thats a good or bad deal and the hitch is a class 3 with a 5000 max weight.
Uhaul Hitch
- Thread starter mag03kj
- Start date
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valvestem
Full Access Member
Actually 280 does sound too bad installed. To me anyway, others may disagree. LOL
brucebotti
Full Access Member
I have the same setup. The hitch and wiring harness are pretty easy to install. At that price, it will be the 4 pin wiring plug. It took me about two hours to install. They will do it in about an hour. Its up to you depending on how much your time is worth.
Bruce
Bruce
kb0nly
Full Access Member
That price isn't too bad, $150 for the Class III i bought and $45 for the wiring harness, so add labor to have a shop do it and its about the same.
I did it myself in a couple hours, just took a while because i had to spend a lot of time cleaning out the bolt holes.
I did it myself in a couple hours, just took a while because i had to spend a lot of time cleaning out the bolt holes.
osufans
Full Access Member
check out http://www.etrailer.com they have a few styles of hitches, they sell the no-splice style trailer harness, and i believe it is free shipping. plus, it may save you on sales tax too!
kb0nly
Full Access Member
X2 on Etrailer, thats where i got mine and the plug in harness. Get the harness that plugs into the rear end harness in the rear passenger corner, thats the easiest way to do it.
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~42475.htm
You just pull up the trim piece across the tailgate opening and the remove a couple screws and pull out the right rear corner of the interior panel. Unplug the stock harness and plug your trailer adapter inline and then put it down through the floor grommet that is there for the factory trailer wiring. I just cut a slit in the rubber plug and pushed my trailer plug down through and then sealed around it with some RTV.
The bolt holes make look clean but you might want to spray them with some oil and run a bolt in and out each before putting the hitch up in place and then find out you have a problem getting them to run through. I took some PB Blaster and a plumbers brush and cleaned each one out and then run a bolt in and out each of them.
Also on the rear passenger side, you might want to consider a jackstand and remove the wheel, the front bolt on that side is above the exhaust pipe and not accessible from underneath, but if you remove the wheel you can go in through the wheel well and there is enough room to swing a ratchet or wrench. I had to use a wrench to start it until i had enough room to get a ratched on the bolt. Wish i had one of those ratcheting box wrenches that size would have made the whole thing easier.
As for the ball mount.... I have a 3" drop and no problem getting most couplers on it. Etrailer does sell some nice long ball mounts, and they are rated as high as a shorter one, when you put in an extension you loose a lot of your load capacity. Might want to consider ordering an extra long ball mount if your worried about that. I just swing the gate open and hook up and then swing the gate closed if i need to.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-80232/Bal...se-or-2-Drop---Extra-Extra-Long-6000-lbs.html
http://www.etrailer.com/pc-VWH~42475.htm
You just pull up the trim piece across the tailgate opening and the remove a couple screws and pull out the right rear corner of the interior panel. Unplug the stock harness and plug your trailer adapter inline and then put it down through the floor grommet that is there for the factory trailer wiring. I just cut a slit in the rubber plug and pushed my trailer plug down through and then sealed around it with some RTV.
The bolt holes make look clean but you might want to spray them with some oil and run a bolt in and out each before putting the hitch up in place and then find out you have a problem getting them to run through. I took some PB Blaster and a plumbers brush and cleaned each one out and then run a bolt in and out each of them.
Also on the rear passenger side, you might want to consider a jackstand and remove the wheel, the front bolt on that side is above the exhaust pipe and not accessible from underneath, but if you remove the wheel you can go in through the wheel well and there is enough room to swing a ratchet or wrench. I had to use a wrench to start it until i had enough room to get a ratched on the bolt. Wish i had one of those ratcheting box wrenches that size would have made the whole thing easier.
As for the ball mount.... I have a 3" drop and no problem getting most couplers on it. Etrailer does sell some nice long ball mounts, and they are rated as high as a shorter one, when you put in an extension you loose a lot of your load capacity. Might want to consider ordering an extra long ball mount if your worried about that. I just swing the gate open and hook up and then swing the gate closed if i need to.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-80232/Bal...se-or-2-Drop---Extra-Extra-Long-6000-lbs.html
Last edited:
kb0nly
Full Access Member
Oh, also if you take off your spare tire carrier and flip it around so its upside down that gains you another inch of clearance, or so i'm told i havent had to do that on mine, and the window will still clear the spare just fine.
brucebotti
Full Access Member
I had to do that on mine and everything works just fine. If I didn't flip the spare tire carrier, it was too dificult to get my trailer hooked onto the hitch ball.
Bruce
DJSKJ
Full Access Member
Which hitch is recommended? I heard Draw Tite is good in that it moves the receiver out away from the spare tire. I am looking to use it for a bike carrier or for cargo carrier.
DJ
DJ
moparman
Full Access Member
I have to use a hitch extension for my Hidden Hitch and bike rack. So maybe Draw Tite is the way to go. My hitch extension is heavy, solid block of steel.
guitarzan
Full Access Member
For that price I'd be inclined to let them install it. But it's cold, wet, and wintery here.
eTrailer is a great place to deal with. They have a big warehouse/facility not too far from me. They have a few different styles available, and there's usually a video for your vehicle on youtube showing how to install everything.
eTrailer is a great place to deal with. They have a big warehouse/facility not too far from me. They have a few different styles available, and there's usually a video for your vehicle on youtube showing how to install everything.
brucebotti
Full Access Member
My hitch (same one as used by Uhaul - Curt) is pretty much flush with the bumper. I have to use an extension (6-8") to use a bike rack. I doubt that any hitch would stick out far enough to allow you to not have to use an extension. If it did, I can see two problems:
1. It may reduce your towing capacity.
2. You would hit your shins on it everytime.
Just my two cents.
Bruce
moparman
Full Access Member
I leave my hitch extension on the bike rack, that's how I know how heavy it is. I haven't towed anything yet.
RageOfFury
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I went with the Reese 44082 hitch which is a custom hitch for the KJ. Some pics:
My hitch thread : http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40462&highlight=hitch
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My hitch thread : http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40462&highlight=hitch
kb0nly
Full Access Member
I went with the Curt Class III on eTrailer, $145 i think it is. Then just buy one of the longer ball mounts and the nice thing is when you remove the ball mount the receiver tube is flush with the bumper and you don't whack your legs on it getting stuff out of the back when the gate is swung open and your legs up close to the bumper, thats just my opinion as i like it to be out of the way when not in use.
ya i want to have the uhaul guy order it here but then i dont want to get it and then i have to buy more stuff. ya know what i'm saying bc i think i all ready got like 3 mounts-1) welded 2'' and 2 5/16'' 2) 2'' drop w/2'' ball 3)triball so lol i dont really want to buy a 4th
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