Turns over but doesn't start,

[railstop]

I hope this isn't "yet another one of these" threads. If it is I am sorry.

So my wife drives her 05 Liberty Sport 3.7L every day with no issues. Yesterday she calls and said she drove to another office, less than 5min away, spent 15 min inside and now it won't start, it actually started, she stuck it in R then it died.
I go down, find that it does in fact turn over and attempt to start but never actually does. I do a few quick basic things to make sure it isn't working right. I take her home, less than 3 miles from our house, go back with some basic tools and diag equipment. OBD scan says no codes, pretty odd in any case lol, spark is good, fuel is there.
Today I go back to check, it starts, runs for about 30 seconds then dies. I recheck all items, its getting fuel, spark is good, no codes.
Had it towed to my house, luckily it was a good price.

Any help with this would be great. She just paid it off last month, so why not something go wrong.

 

[Billwill]

If it continuily starts and runs for about 30 seconds then cuts out it could be your SKIS anti theft has a problem.

When you turn the ignition ON the SKIS Red LED on the left of the cluster should light up briefly then go out.

If it stays ON all the time all flashes at you then the PCM has not recogised the code from the chipped key...will allow it to start and then cuts out after a few seconds.

Check if this is the case...in any case it is worth swapping over the ASD Relay in the box under the hood with an identical relay nearby.

 

[JasonJ]

^ Sounds like a key programming/security system issue.

 

[CactusJacked]

Simply "getting fuel" as opposed to getting sufficient constant pressure are three different things. You need to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and see what pressure you're getting after the pump primes (key on, not start), once the engine starts, and whether or not pressure drops (it shouldn't) shortly after it shuts off. Past experience suggests fuel pump going out, but it could be a few things.

 

[railstop]

If it continuily starts and runs for about 30 seconds then cuts out it could be your SKIS anti theft has a problem.

When you turn the ignition ON the SKIS Red LED on the left of the cluster should light up briefly then go out.

If it stays ON all the time all flashes at you then the PCM has not recogised the code from the chipped key...will allow it to start and then cuts out after a few seconds.

Check if this is the case...in any case it is worth swapping over the ASD Relay in the box under the hood with an identical relay nearby.

I will check this out, thanks!

 

[railstop]

Watching the gauge cluster, The red dot LED comes on, then goes off. So that sounds like it is performing normally.

I am trying to locate my fuel pressure tester for fuel pump test. I already swapped the fuel pump relay to make sure, and it was ok. Still no start.

Spark was tested again, good and strong.

 

[renegade 04]

My money is on a security key chip problem.

 

[railstop]

Forgot to add one thing, I checked the ASD relay, swapped if for 2 different relays nearby, still didn't work

Not sure if it is ok to link to a few 15sec or shorter videos from my dropbox, but here they are.

This one shows turn the key to run, not attempting to start.

This one shows attempting to start

 

[uss2defiant]

if it's a key skim issue, you would have a P1685 CEL code.

 

[Billwill]

Watching the gauge cluster, The red dot LED comes on, then goes off. So that sounds like it is performing normally.

I am trying to locate my fuel pressure tester for fuel pump test. I already swapped the fuel pump relay to make sure, and it was ok. Still no start.

Spark was tested again, good and strong.

OK if this Red Led dot on LHS of cluster does come for a while then go out as you say then it is probably not a chipped key problem.

Does the fuel pump run and are you getting fuel at the injectors?
You can temporary jumper pins 30 and 87 inside the Fuel Pump Relay to get it to run.

Have you checked all fuses....under the hood and inside the cabin.

I should imagine the fact that you are getting camshaft and camshaft sensor pulses as you are getting a spark but I am not a Gasser expert here and would not know if the spark is appearing at the correct time.

Fuel injectors working?

You need to get any CEL codes pulled although you say there are not any codes...need fuel pressure tested!

 

[uss2defiant]

i noticed that the P1685 CEL code only showed w/ via the key technique and not a code reader strangely when I had this weird issue w/ my key.
Don't know why that happened to me but just check for CEL codes w/ the key technique. Just in case.

 

[railstop]

OK if this Red Led dot on LHS of cluster does come for a while then go out as you say then it is probably not a chipped key problem.

Does the fuel pump run and are you getting fuel at the injectors?
You can temporary jumper pins 30 and 87 inside the Fuel Pump Relay to get it to run.

Have you checked all fuses....under the hood and inside the cabin.

I should imagine the fact that you are getting camshaft and camshaft sensor pulses as you are getting a spark but I am not a Gasser expert here and would not know if the spark is appearing at the correct time.

Fuel injectors working?

You need to get any CEL codes pulled although you say there are not any codes...need fuel pressure tested!

yes, I did have codes pulled, nothing found, everything showed OK. I will jumper the pump relay tonight. I was thinking about that as well. I did go through all fuses and everything checked out. I had planned on double checking them tonight.

 

[railstop]

Update:
I pulled the tank because we did not purchase one of the fortunate few models that had an access panel. I found the fuel pressure regulator, located in the top half of the housing of the fuel pump assembly had failed. It had locked shut so no fuel would pass.
I ended up replacing the fuel pump assembly that includes the pump, sender and regulator.

Thanks to everyone that helped.
I hope this helps anyone in the future

 

[nullptr]

Update:
I pulled the tank because we did not purchase one of the fortunate few models that had an access panel. I found the fuel pressure regulator, located in the top half of the housing of the fuel pump assembly had failed. It had locked shut so no fuel would pass.
I ended up replacing the fuel pump assembly that includes the pump, sender and regulator.

Thanks to everyone that helped.
I hope this helps anyone in the future

Glad you got it fixed!