strut spacer or top plate?

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jeeptorino68

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bought a lift kit from a member on the forum here
it comes with a strut spacer (like a conduit nut) or i have an aluminum top plate. is on preferred over the other for any reason?
 

CzarKJ

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bought a lift kit from a member on the forum here
it comes with a strut spacer (like a conduit nut) or i have an aluminum top plate. is on preferred over the other for any reason?

Well you can use one or the other. Or both! for more lift.
 

tommudd

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bought a lift kit from a member on the forum here
it comes with a strut spacer (like a conduit nut) or i have an aluminum top plate. is on preferred over the other for any reason?

What kit did you get? What size is the clevis spacer?
 

jeeptorino68

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i purchased an ironman kit
it is also coming with
3/8 clevis ring
extra rear isolator
and hockey pucks for rear bumpstops


sounds like all i need are front bumpstops (teraflex is the only one right?)
and i am set to go

just wondering if there is a preference on the strut ring or top plate


i plan to run 245 75 16 or 255 70 16
 

Cardhu

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to run 245 75 16 well, i'd put in both. Your going to need atleast 22 inches wheel center to fender to fit after alignment without a lot of rubbing.
 

tlrtucker

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I have a 1/4" top plate and 1/4" clevis and I clear everything (pinch weld and inner fenders) by a good inch and am sitting at just a hair over 21-3/4" now (21.85" to be exact). I'd be willing to bet if you ran the 3/8" clevis spacer you'd be fine, or just have very minimal rubbing on the inner fender.

What wheels are you running? I'm running the stock 16" wheels and the only rubbing I get is at full lock turning on the sway bar. If you have a different backspacing, you could have more or less rubbing

I seem to remember reading that a top plate is preferred, but I can't tell you why. Maybe because it's easier to install the top plate while you're installing the lift, where installing a clevis is a little less involved (but not much really). Once you get it stripped down to the point you can install the clevis rings it's only another 4 bolts to remove the entire assembly for the top plate installation...
 
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Bmxer524

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Basically, the Ironman kit will get you about 2.25". 245/75-16s will clear with that much lift. Preferably, you want 2.5" to accommodate all tread patterns etc. Add the 1/4" top plate, and you have 2.75" of lift. Plenty for the tires. You can then add the 3/8" clevis to get about 3.25" of lift.

HOWEVER, after you go about 3" or so you will need a-arms. Were those included?

If not, I'd add the top plate. Then if you decide to get a-arms at a later point you can add the clevis lift for more height. I suggest this route just because it's easier to add a clevis lift than it is to drop the whole spring assembly and add a top plate.

For the rear, I'm not sure exactly how ironman springs sit. I'm assuming close to OME. If that's the case, 1 rear iso per side will put you pretty level with only the clevis or top plate. If you do both, you should add 2 extra per side. Make sure you add them to the top.
 

jeeptorino68

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no a-arms so i will likely use one or the other and one rear iso.
i had the top plates made for free at work, not knowing i would end up with a lift that came with strut rings too
 
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