Starting issues...

[Weaver]

Hey guy I've got an 05 3.7L that has an ongoing issue. It cold starts perfectly but if I go somewhere, shut if off then try to start it up a couple minutes later it wont turn over on the first try but does on the second try. So yesterday I had been driving around a bit then I run into the mall for about a minute then come out and it wont start up, tried again and it still wouldn't turn over. Let it rest for about 25 minutes then it fired up fine. Any ideas where to start?

One other issue I've been having is intermittent heat/it's temp is running high periodically, thoughts?

 

[KodiakKJ]

That's similar to what happened to my last car. It ended up that the alternator was dying. I don't know how useful getting the alternator checked out is since its so random. I'm not an electrical expert, so it would be better to wait for post from more experienced people.

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[renegade 04]

Take a volt meter to the battery when the truck is running and it should be around 14.00 volts and if it is lower than about 13.5 volts than your alternator is bad. When the truck is off and you let it sit for about an hour the voltage on the battery should be 12.3 or higher. Your local auto parts store should be able to test these for you. Also make sure that your battery terminals are free of corrosion.

 

[CactusJacked]

Hey guy I've got an 05 3.7L that has an ongoing issue. It cold starts perfectly but if I go somewhere, shut if off then try to start it up a couple minutes later it wont turn over on the first try but does on the second try. So yesterday I had been driving around a bit then I run into the mall for about a minute then come out and it wont start up, tried again and it still wouldn't turn over. Let it rest for about 25 minutes then it fired up fine. Any ideas where to start?
One other issue I've been having is intermittent heat/it's temp is running high periodically, thoughts?

Just want to clarify some conflicting terminologies used to make sure we're all on the same page....
"Won't start up" means the engine will turn over with the key but it doesn't fire up and run.
"Still wouldn't turn over" means you turn the key and the engine does nothing, but the starter may click.
"It fired up fine" means the engine turned over and it started running.
Depending upon what's happening (no start or no crank) means different things would be causing the problem.

 

[KodiakKJ]

When my alternator was dying, it was showing the same symptoms. It would randomly not be able to start, but be able to if it was jump started or sat for awhile.

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[Weaver]

Take a volt meter to the battery when the truck is running and it should be around 14.00 volts and if it is lower than about 13.5 volts than your alternator is bad. When the truck is off and you let it sit for about an hour the voltage on the battery should be 12.3 or higher. Your local auto parts store should be able to test these for you. Also make sure that your battery terminals are free of corrosion.

I have a capacitor and it was showing about 12.2V when off and 14.5 when running.

Just want to clarify some conflicting terminologies used to make sure we're all on the same page....
"Won't start up" means the engine will turn over with the key but it doesn't fire up and run.
"Still wouldn't turn over" means you turn the key and the engine does nothing, but the starter may click.
"It fired up fine" means the engine turned over and it started running.
Depending upon what's happening (no start or no crank) means different things would be causing the problem.

I'll try to clarify. "Won't start up and still won't turn over" = I can hear the engine starting to make noise but then it dies (almost like it's not getting fuel). It's not like it's completely dead with only the clicking noise as I've had that before but it's not the case this time. "Fired up fine" = starts normally with no issues

 

[Birdman330]

This is a random shot but possibly fuel pump is dying and or this I highly doubt vapor lock.

 

[dscott90000]

Starter or battery...possible ignition switch too.

 

[LibertyTC]

"Start" by having your battery checked with a load test. Only a load test will give you available cold cranking amps.KJ's do weird stuff if the battery is weak.
If you have a lead acid battery with removable caps, a battery tester/hydrometer can test each cell & give you state of charge.
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A fully charged battery should read above 13.2 volts mine reads 13.4V+
Once the jeep is running 14.5 is good.
Fresh spark plugs can help too=(copper core ngk/Champion) I change out every 25 k miles there abouts.
If your battery passes a load test and you got good spark plugs & it is still doing it..look towards getting a fuel pressure gauge on the rail ASAP.

 

[Weaver]

She's going in the shop in about a week to fix a coolant leak so I'm gonna have them give it the once over. Hopefully we can figure this out

 

[LibertyTC]

How many miles on your KJ? If they service the cooling system, use an OEM Mopar thermostat and Hoat Coolant. You may need to do the water pump as well ??
If by chance they pressure test it and find a small crack in the rad, I would also go with a Mopar replacement on that as well. They are the best longest lasting ones.

 

[Weaver]

How many miles on your KJ? If they service the cooling system, use an OEM Mopar thermostat and Hoat Coolant. You may need to do the water pump as well ??
If by chance they pressure test it and find a small crack in the rad, I would also go with a Mopar replacement on that as well. They are the best longest lasting ones.

178,000 km

 

[LibertyTC]

If your KJ has not received a new water pump by 178K I would definitely consider installing a new one now, while you are doing the cooling system anyways.
As well as new upper & lower rad hoses if they have not been done too.
Inspect heater hoses and you will probably want new ones!