She's getting an oil change

[moparman]

Forget about the 10w40, stick with 5w30. It's printed on your filler cap along with the API requirement. http://www.api.org/aboutoilgas/motoroil/ All the oil really has to do is meet the API requirement. Conventional, synthetic, blends, cheap, whatever. Everything else is personal preference. Modern engines do not like thick oil. STP is even thicker goop. What really matters is that it and the filter gets changed at the correct interval.

Everybody poopoos the Fram filters because of 1 or 2 people who cut up the filters and post their OPINIONS on the internet. Sure the Fram might be a little flimsy but in the real world they work. Before there was an internet I used Fram filters for years. Never had one fail. Do I use them now? Not if I can help it but I have used one in another vehicle in recent years. The real way to test a filter's effectiveness is to take your old oil to a lab to have it analyzed. That's what fleet operators do.

I have been driving for my job for almost 30 years and have been driving about 30K a year that whole time. Since I have been working on cars since I was a boy I do much of my own work. I have tried everything and have been using mostly Mobil 1 every 6000-7500 miles for the last 12 years. That's my personal preference. I think it's more important to change your oil every 3 or 4 months regardless of oil type or mileage. More often for very dirty conditions. (wheelin')

 

[RageOfFury]

Dino oil + treatment does not equal synthetic oil.

Most if not all owner's manual will tell you that oil and gas additives are not recommended. Your asking for trouble running that crap in a modern engine.

If you want to use dino oil, fine, just don't use it for longer than the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval and don't add any crappy treatment to it.

 

[mag03kj]

k well ill put my stuff in it but what do you think about slick 50. and are just saying stuff about what i bought bc its cheap? well if thats the case then ford,chevy and chrysler are cheap compared to bmw,lambo,benz and from my view all american makes do pretty damn good. dont ya think

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Folks...his Jeep, his call...

 

[mag03kj]

lol i dont mind it just lol think about stuff in compared ways b4 saying something

 

[long_tall_texan]

Dino oil + treatment does not equal synthetic oil.

X2

You can not convert a petroleum product into a man-made lubricant just by adding something to it. Molecular structure does not change. You just get a mixture. Remember that from way back in high school chem class?

But... I don't think there is anything wrong with "dino" oil as long as you follow the old tried-and-true rule of 3000 mile OCI. You are right that there are plenty of cars that have run several hundred thousand miles running dino with Fram filters.

Do I run that in my KJ? Nope. Technology has made great advances over the years. There are better alternatives available now. Synthetic oils lubricate better and do not break down as quickly. Also, there are other oil filters that are better made and filter better than Fram. Since the technology is available, I just choose to take advantage of it.

I use Wix Filters and Full Synthetic Oil - Pennzoil Platinum, Mobil1, Valvoline, whatever happens to be the best price when I need it. And I do buy these name brand oils at WalMart. Why not? It is less expensive. Change mine every 4-5000 miles.

If you want to read loads of info about what is really good and bad in oils and filtration, check out the independent studies at www.bobistheoilguy.com

 

[mag03kj]

true i mean all yall are right..its just that im true old school and its just that once you go black they aint no going back (black=Synthetic) and i look at wally world to buy food

 

[kb0nly]

Castrol GTX and a Fram filter... After 20+ years i haven't had a problem, and i was originally using regular Castrol before the GTX blend came out, when was that anyway the late 80's... Damn i just made myself feel old.

Anyway, this debate comes up all the time... I swear if you want to make everyone come out of the woodwork on here mention Fram.

I have been using Fram on every vehicle i have owned since the dawn of time, well since i got my license, and i can remember helping my dad change oil on his truck using Fram before then. Actually that old Scottsdale got me back and forth to high school, it made just a bit over 250k before it started having engine problems, good old american small block 350.

Anyway, my last vehicle before the KJ went over the 200k mark with nothing but Castrol GTX and Fram filters. Now my sister is driving it, still runs great. So bottom line is this, through all these threads on here bashing Fram i just chuckle and move on, cause i haven't had any trouble.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Do you use the Synthetic GTX? I don't, but I like the oil a lot. Cleaning out a lot of gunk. Probably going to change it in another 500 or so, that means I've put 2k on it...

 

[mag03kj]

k well i think i know not to use fram lol (just not say i do on the site) but to the oil whats the best oil to use other then a Synthetic or blend

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I like the Castrol GTX I've used. Valvoline is nice as well, used Quaker State as well with no issues.

 

[RageOfFury]

Dino oil is fine to use as long as you change it every 2-3k miles. Don't try and push it, because you'll end up with sludge.

I understand that your old school, but with today's modern engines, you gotta start embracing today's technologies. Synthetic motor oil, oil filters using synthetic media, platinum spark plugs are just a few examples.

 

[mag03kj]

ya btw i need to change my sparks i dont think they have ever been changed. anyway of telling if they have and whats a good spark to use. i dont want to go crappy again lol jk and about how hard are these kjs

 

[RageOfFury]

ya btw i need to change my sparks i dont think they have ever been changed. anyway of telling if they have and whats a good spark to use. i dont want to go crappy again lol jk and about how hard are these kjs

Changing the plugs on the KJ is easy. Check out the How-To section for the spark plug thread. As for which plugs to use, Autolite Platinum or Double Platinum are what people around here recommend for the 3.7L.

 

[mag03kj]

10-4 and will i have to gap them or not

 

[Boiler]

I had to gap my platinums, they were all at 60 to 80 and I think they were supposed to be 0.040. I've slept since then so I forget what it's supposed to be for sure.

You can get the autolite platinums for a couple bucks a piece too. I've heard TJKJ say that you have to use carbon fiber (or some kind of plasticy stuff) gappers to not scratch off the platinum. I couldn't find one so I tried to be careful. If anyone (Troy?) knows where I can get the special gappers I'd love to know. (or send me one )

As for oil, I have to agree, its ok to use dino as long as you change it on schedule, but synthetic is better. I change mine every 3 anyway because its fun for me and I'm not afraid to spend $100 a year on oil. I buy mobil 1 5w-30 at wally world for $22 per 5 gallons. I would NEVER again buy oil from a parts store, they all rip you off with those 4 quart things. They get it close to walmart in price, but try to fool you by giving you less oil (not enough oil). I hate walmart, but I hate parts stores more. Greed at its finest.

As far as filters, I always thought fram were supposed to be ok, but I think those days have passed. I would not trust any filter that walmart basically sells exclusively. This means that it is DIRT CHEAP for walmart to buy, not because it is the best. I have no doubt that every corner is cut so that they can keep their contracts and remain profittable.

I buy mobil 1 filters & oil, and change every 3k. For me that is about 5 changes a year at $13 + $22. In total I spend about $175 in yearly oil maintenance. Cheap insurance in my opinion. If it sounds like too much, you can easily go 5k with that set up and spend $105 / year @ 15k miles driven.

I also use mobil 1 in my diffs.

 

[moparman]

Past couple of times I walked in to Advance Auto they had 5 qts. Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 filter for $29.99.

As for conventional oil practically every name brand will work. Buy what's on sale that week. Even store brands will work. When I worked at a Pep Boys in the early 90's their store brand was made by Valvoline and then Castrol after a while. People develop preferences for oil based on how it looks on the stick when checking it after it has some miles on it and how it looks when it is draining out at change time. A family friend in Oil City, PA (where good oil used to come from) worked for Wolf's Head/Pennzoil and knew everything about oil. He was a believer in "cheap oil - frequent oil changes".

 

[flair1111]

heres a vid i made on changing spark plugs for the kj. enjoy and hope it helps you.
http://www.youtube.com/user/satchelmcqueenvideo#p/u/40/DxsEOCqhHx8
where from south ga are you? im up top myself. very cold this week.

 

[mag03kj]

heres a vid i made on changing spark plugs for the kj. enjoy and hope it helps you.
http://www.youtube.com/user/satchelmcqueenvideo#p/u/40/DxsEOCqhHx8
where from south ga are you? im up top myself. very cold this week.

down around tifton,albany, and about 45mins north of valdosta. what about you

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Color and smell aren't a good way to tell if the oil needs changing or not. Only a used oil analyst will tell you that. If your running conventional oil, stick to 2-3k miles oil changes.

What ROF said

well idk how it aint why waste money? why not get full use out of it bc i am for sure but ill keep on using what i know and have been using

Why waste money? 150k miles, one of the quietest running 3.7s around, full syn every 5k miles...sounds like a waste of money

Forget about the 10w40, stick with 5w30. It's printed on your filler cap along with the API requirement.

Cool story, bro.
'02s and ITBJRC '03s also specify in the manual that above 0*F you can run 10w30. ThunderbirdJunkie runs it in the summer/spring/fall.