Replaced Bumper Skin - Fast Blinker and Horn now, nearly silent?

[lanthony2020]

Had to replace bumper skin. Replaced blinker lenses while at it. During the time I was waiting for bumper with old skin and blinkers/marker lights removed, horn was nearly non-existent and blinkers fast as expected. Horn, I don't know?

Installed all back today. Horn is still quiet, blinkers still very fast. Passenger side marker light does not work (new bulb), right blinker works but right parking light does not. New bulbs here as well.

BOth marker lights were burnt looking upon dis=assembly . At first reassembly, right marker was actually blinking, now nothing. Exchange bulbs, still nothing.

All other light bulbs new or working. Right marker now appears completely dead, right parking light not working and horn barely sounds off???? Blinkers working but fast?

Dielectric grease???

 

[uss2defiant]

my first step would be to check the fuses and relays.

 

[lanthony2020]

Thanks! Checked the passenger side blinker fuse, it was toast. I now have marker lights, blinkers and parking lights that work, on both sides. Blinker still running fast however.

Break lights, signal lights and flashers all work in the back. Can't figure out what the lower two halves in the back are for? Nothing here. I could not check the backup lights by myself. I am guessing the clear part of the bottom back lights are for backup. What are the upper red halves of the bottom assembly halves for, I wonder?

Horn still barely makes a sound. I removed the #1 fuse in the cabin and it looked good and no noise at all from horn, when removed. Fuse is good. Can't find any other association with the horn function?

Any more ideas? I am going to pop the backs off the rear lights and check the bottom half light bulbs in the back.

LN

 

[nullptr]

The horn may have just died. Mine sounds like a Moose in heat with emphysema. Water gets up in the unit and it goes bad. It's located right behind the bumper on the drivers side (at least, on the '05s) and is kind of just hanging out there in the elements. I'd remove the horn and try jumpering it directly to the battery. If it still sounds like crap, replace it.

The bottom lower half's half is just a reflector, no bulb behind it.

Dunno on the fast flash. What your describing is indicative of a burned out bulb somewhere, or a bad ground. But if everything is working, maybe the flasher relay is bad? It's built into the hazard switch on the dash.

 

[profdlp]

You're making progress and getting good advice. I'd look closely at all the areas where you worked on the bumper and lenses and see if you managed to pinch a wire or otherwise short something out. The burned out fuse indicates that something may have been nicked during the work you did. Whenever a problem like this crops up I always look at what was just changed. Of course, I'm assuming the stuff all worked right before.

 

[lanthony2020]

Thanks, I'll investigate. I took off front end and installed aftermarket BM Transcooler as well.

Power washed the heck out of it since the OEM cooler was leaking bad. The fan sprayed fluid all over the place. May have toasted horn if they are water sensitive as you say.

I will pull horn and check externally.

Thanks,

LN

 

[uss2defiant]

the libby has a 2 tone horn so there are two horns. one of them might not be working.
check relays if you haven't.

The tail lights.
the first circular part on the top only the top part has a light bulb unless you have an export model. The top half of the top circular is the running red and brake lights.

The turn signal and reverse are intuitive.

 

[lanthony2020]

Thank you. I will add one more mod that i just remembered. I changed the front maker lights and blinker lights to "LED's"? I wonder if there is a voltage draw difference that could be fooling the system into "thinking" it has a dead bulb?? Probably a long shot.

LN

 

[John3seventeen]

Yep you have to add a resistor or you will have the fast blink and or no light. Because of the low voltage draw the computer thinks the bulb is dead and stops the voltage to it. I used switchbacks in my front turns and had a few other issues.

 

[nullptr]

Thank you. I will add one more mod that i just remembered. I changed the front maker lights and blinker lights to "LED's"? I wonder if there is a voltage draw difference that could be fooling the system into "thinking" it has a dead bulb?? Probably a long shot.

LN

Oh yeah, that'll do it. You'll need to add resistors or modify the blinker unit to compensate.

 

[lanthony2020]

Thanks guys. I think I will just stick OEM bulbs back in. Horn is a little better. Sort of two tone. Sounds like a Hee-Haw Donkey with emphysema, sort of. Like stated above by Nullptr. A bit louder today.

I think we've got it!

Thanks again,

LN

 

[blackhawk]

Yep you have to add a resistor or you will have the fast blink and or no light. Because of the low voltage draw the computer thinks the bulb is dead and stops the voltage to it. I used switchbacks in my front turns and had a few other issues.

I add led bulbs to stop lights. No blinking problem, however, when I install a pair of led bulbs to front blinker lights, they began to flash rapidly. I put the old oem bulbs back....

 

[John3seventeen]

I add led bulbs to stop lights. No blinking problem, however, when I install a pair of led bulbs to front blinker lights, they began to flash rapidly. I put the old oem bulbs back....

^^^^resistors^^^^^

I have led's in all of mine except for the small side marker bulbs in the front.

 

[nullptr]

^^^^resistors^^^^^

I have led's in all of mine except for the small side marker bulbs in the front.

This.

I plan on adding them to mine at some point. Trying to decide what to do with the tail lights, I don't know if I want to go with the integrated ones or just add LEDs to the one's I have... wish you could get the integrated ones in red, instead of just smoke or clear.