passenger axle seal??

[mudslinger]

Noticed a leak under the passanger side today. Seems like it is the axle seal.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

How long can I go with out fixing this? Don't do any off roading.
Can I just check the oil level regularly until it is warmer and have time to fix?

 

[u2slow]

You might have more going on there that you realize.

When mine leaked, the shaft had started thumping around in the bearing. That wore the splines so the CV and intermediate shaft would not separate. If it gets this far, be prepared to change the seal, bearing, intermediate shaft, and CV.

For now, topping up the oil is a good precaution.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Yea, that ^^^^

And it's not easy to just check the oil level in the front diff. There is no dipstick, just a fill plug that must be removed. Can't see the oil level in the hole so you have to just fill it until the oil begins to drip out. Get a filler tube from AutoZone or someplace that you put on the top of the oil quart. You'll need to tilt the bottle to get the oil to flow into the diff.

Bob

 

[guth_64]

2 issues.

#1: Anyone have advice on how to remove the passenger side axle seal?

#2: Anyone had issue reinstalling a new intermediate shaft?

So i disassembled everything and tried to remove the seal. I effed it up and cant get it out. I was going to re-assemble and take it to a mechanic before i do anymore damage but i cant get the old or new intermediate shaft back in. Am I the only one who have ever had trouble reinstalling? every thread i read says just put it back in.

FYI: 162,*** miles and splines looked good. My wife's daily driver.

 

[megatone]

When I removed the axle seal on my daughters 2004, I used a small slide hammer (dent puller) to remove it.

Those types of seals will always get damaged when removing them.

I ordered a replacement bearing and seal from Pep Boys Auto Parts.....the bearing fit into the axle tube, but the intermediate shaft wouldn't fit thru the bearing. I measured the inside diameter of the bearing and compared it to the diameter of the intermediate shaft. The bearing was a couple millimeters smaller than the shaft.

Basically, the auto parts store gave me the wrong part. The bearing kept the shaft from clicking back in place within the transmission.

If you just want to get the Jeep back to driving condition for the sole purpose of driving it straight to a shop, you could use half of a CD case and just seal it to the end of the axle tube (I saw my brother in law do this trick up in the mountains when his cv joint came apart......he ended up removing the intermediate shaft and siliconed the CD case to the axle tube.....it worked, drove 40 miles back to his house).

 

[CzarKJ]

Don't give up yet! Get a slide hammer rental for free (as told above) and cut a relief in the seal with a dremel

 

[u2slow]

The slide-hammer adventure was a fail for me. It ripped up the seal pretty good, but it wouldn't budge.

I had the diff out of the Jeep, and ring gear (w/case) out for installing the locker. So I used a big impact socket (1" to 1-1/8" range) on a long extension to drive it out from the backside.

As for the bearings and seals, I went thru the Dana/Spicer PDFs to get the numbers for the right parts. Oil seal is 50608. Needle bearing assembly is 566131. I ordered those parts and the intermediate shaft from CSE offroad. I didn't have any trouble installing them.... but its no doubt easier with the diff on the bench.

 

[megatone]

The slide-hammer adventure was a fail for me. It ripped up the seal pretty good, but it wouldn't budge.

I had the diff out of the Jeep, and ring gear (w/case) out for installing the locker. So I used a big impact socket (1" to 1-1/8" range) on a long extension to drive it out from the backside.

As for the bearings and seals, I went thru the Dana/Spicer PDFs to get the numbers for the right parts. Oil seal is 50608. Needle bearing assembly is 566131. I ordered those parts and the intermediate shaft from CSE offroad. I didn't have any trouble installing them.... but its no doubt easier with the diff on the bench.

Nice.....and yeah, everything is ALOT easier with the diff on a bench. The intermediate shaft tube is just pressed into the ring/pinion case just so all others may know when pounding out the seal/bearing from the inside, it would be a good idea to clamp the tube in a vice to hold it steady because if you clamp the differential case, you may inadvertently pound the shaft tube out of the diff case a tad bit.

Here is the part number for the bearing that I got from Pep Boys which was the WRONG part for 2004 Libby:
# BCA B2110 (brand name is "National Wheel End Components" manufactured be Moog

 

[guth_64]

Thanks for all the help. Naturally I tore it apart right before I left the country for two weeks. Wife loved that. Any thoughts for why the intermediate shaft wont go back in? Old or new.

 

[megatone]

Spline Count

When you had all the parts on the bench, did you slip the intermediate shaft into the locker to be SURE that the splines mated with each other?

Maybe you can take the intermediate shaft down to the shop where you purchased the locker and fit the shaft into another locker with the same part number as the one you installed into your rig.

Could be that the (for whatever reason) the lock ring at the end of the shaft is not flexing enough to compress for it to slip into the splined section in the locker. If this is the case, you could use a rubber mallet to try to smack it into place.

If the spline count is different on the locker then smacking it with a hammer is a bad idea as doing so may damage the tips of the splines.

Is the shaft not seating in the locker or is it not even entering the locker AT ALL. What I mean is: Can you get the shaft to slip into the locker, engaging atleast a fraction of an inch of the splines. If you can get the splines to mate for say...1/8th of an inch, I would say to smack the hell out of the shaft (with a rubber mallet) till the shaft slips in. If the splines are NOT mating at all, I'd say you have the wrong spline-count on the locker.

 

[guth_64]

Spline Count

When you had all the parts on the bench, did you slip the intermediate shaft into the locker to be SURE that the splines mated with each other?

Maybe you can take the intermediate shaft down to the shop where you purchased the locker and fit the shaft into another locker with the same part number as the one you installed into your rig.

Could be that the (for whatever reason) the lock ring at the end of the shaft is not flexing enough to compress for it to slip into the splined section in the locker. If this is the case, you could use a rubber mallet to try to smack it into place.

If the spline count is different on the locker then smacking it with a hammer is a bad idea as doing so may damage the threads.

Is the shaft not seating in the locker or is it not even entering the locker AT ALL. What I mean is: Can you get the shaft to slip into the locker, engaging atleast a fraction of an inch of the splines. If you can get the splines to mate for say...1/8th of an inch, I would say to smack the hell out of the shaft till the shaft slips in. If the splines are NOT mating at all, I'd say you have the wrong spline-count on the locker.

I never had it on the bench. That was someone else. The shaft will seat into the locker but only about 1/8 of an inch. I thought it was the lock ring so i removed it but still no luck. Since it came out after a few yanks, using a hammer is my last resort

 

[megatone]

The opposite end of the shaft....the end nearest the wheel is tapered, could it be that the inside diameter of the bearing is too small to allow the shaft to completely seat within the locker?

Pull the intermediate shaft out and try to insert the other end of the shaft a few inches past the bearing, making sure that the shaft actually fits thru the bearing.