New Clutch, Now what?!?!?!

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02libby

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2002 Liberty 5-speed 4x4 3.7L 126,000 miles

Just had a clutch put in my 02 Liberty. It was making a weird squealing sound, like finger nails on a chalk board when I had my foot on the clutch, just not as loud. Turned out being bad bearings.

Now, I notice when I am at a stop light after it is warmed up, the engine idle drops to 400 or 500 (and it will bounce between 400 to 900) and I have a growling noise until I put my foot on the clutch and then it goes away but my idle still stays low?

Can I adjust the idle speed? Do I need a new Idle/Throttle Sensor?

What do you guys think?
 

kb0nly

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Just to confirm... When your stopped but with it in Neutral and foot off the clutch it does this?

When mine is warmed up it usually idles at 600 rpm, doesn't bounce at all unless i happen to be sitting with the defrost on, or AC in the summer time, then the rpm jumps a little as the compressor clutch engages/disengages.

Not sure about the growling noise... I know when i put a new clutch in the S10 i used to have that it made a little more noise than usual for like the first 100 miles and then it was quiet again, asked the shop that did it and they said it was normal noise as it was breaking in. But it wasnt really a growl, more of a random squeek or vibration that was felt.

The idle speed is adjusted by the computer, so it could be a bad IAC, Idle Air Control. I would suspect that more than anything. No codes or CEL??
 

02libby

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Yes I will be stopped in neutral when it does this. The idle bounces around with nothing on as far as air conditioning. It does not bounce around fast either. It does it gradually.

I am taking it back to the shop I had the clutch done at tomorrow to see if they can identify the noise. As far as the IAC (Idle Air Control) I will have to look into it. No codes come up though. Is it (IAC Sensor) located right behind the throttle butterfly?
 

02libby

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I tried taking off one of the two sensors behind the throttle on the intake and the star bit I was using broke!!! Those screws are torqued in there pretty good. How has anyone else taken these off?

Also does anyone know what my idle speed should be? I remember it being around 750, but I could be wrong.
 

kb0nly

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You just need a better bit, get a hardened one from an auto parts store or go to a Sears and get one there. Your average hardware store Torx bits are pretty soft, i learned that the hard way here years ago too.

Idle should be about 600 rpm warmed up, at least thats what all the ones i have been in or near seem to idle at, and most on here have commented thats where theirs idles as well. I would remove the IAC and then clean the cavity it sits in along with the IAC itself with some throttle body cleaner to see if its just gummed up. If that doesn't work replace it, its not that expensive. About $65 from RockAuto, i haven't checked other sources yet though but they are usually the cheapest.

I believe the 05' is the same as my 03', on the drivers side of the throttle body there is two electrical connectors, the top one is the throttle position sensor, the bottom is the IAC.
 

02libby

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Idle should be about 600 rpm warmed up, at least thats what all the ones i have been in or near seem to idle at, and most on here have commented thats where theirs idles as well. I would remove the IAC and then clean the cavity it sits in along with the IAC itself with some throttle body cleaner to see if its just gummed up. If that doesn't work replace it, its not that expensive. About $65 from RockAuto, i haven't checked other sources yet though but they are usually the cheapest.

I believe the 05' is the same as my 03', on the drivers side of the throttle body there is two electrical connectors, the top one is the throttle position sensor, the bottom is the IAC.

Should I try the TPS (throttle position sensor) as well? A buddy of mine said that was the problem with his car, but he has a honda.
 

Warren.fischbeck

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Yeah he took it off and resurfaced it. Would that affect the crankshaft sensor?

What exactly did they do? The throw-out bearing is what was causing the squeek but did they also do the clutch, the fork, pilot bearing? Im not sure what a poorly installed clutch may do but binding wouldn't be out of the question, to me that sounds like binding or not properly lined up gearing.
 

02libby

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They replaced the clutch, throw-out bearing, release bearing, and resurfaced the fly wheel. Then they bled the clutch line. So I don't know what could be going on. The clutch feels good, grabs good. Drove it down there today and when I got there the noise stopped. Drove it home, and it started up again.
 

Warren.fischbeck

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I would go back to them and ask how they bled the hydraulics...
From the FSM:
NOTE: The clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder
and connecting line are serviced as an assembly
only. The linkage components cannot be overhauled
or serviced separately. The cylinders and
connecting line are sealed units.
 

Warren.fischbeck

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Something strikes me as funny about the whole thing. I'd ask to see the used parts just to make sure they replaced everything they said they did.
 

02libby

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I did that. The old clutch disc was fine but both bearings were shot. The throw out bearing was making a ton of noise and the release bearing was apparently getting stuck. I am going to try and bring it to them on Saturday. We will see how it goes.
 
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