Need to replace a stud

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ephantmon

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Somehow cross threaded a nut and in the process of removing it stripped the lug stud. I searched the "How to" here (came up empty) and on some other sites. Some advise using a BFH, some say not to. Anyone have experience doing this on their Jeep?
 

ol-flattop

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Haven't done it, but my understanding of the parts involved is that you just have to knock out the damaged one and slide a new one in its place. Not as complicated as one would expect. I don't suppose it could hurt to try some kroil or pb blaster to loosen things up if you're afraid of damaging something with the hammer. Also a block of 2x4 can be a good cushion that transmits energy well but is soft enough to keep other metal parts safe.
 
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MarkJ

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X2 on using a block of wood. Also makes for a larger target for the hammer.
 

Ocelot

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I'd try to turn the lug but back on, even if only half way.
Then use a BFH ON THE END OF IT!
 

LibertyTC

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Did someone say BFH ....and needs some help?
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I will be right over...:icon_lol:
 

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profdlp

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^^ I knew that was coming. It was just a matter of time... :happy175:
 

CactusJacked

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A block of wood is gonna split on the stud, it's in there tighter than the wood can handle. Whack the stud out with a hammer, assisting with a fat drift pin (or nearest facsimile thereof) if it snapped flush with the hub. A hammer isn't going to subject the axle to any jarring action that it hasn't already met on the road.
 

CalcityRenegade

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Ive never done studs on my KJ but I did on my Sierra HD, My Brothers Ford Ranger and GMC Canyon, I just gave them a spray with a penetrant and then a light smack with a mini sledge, Never really took much to pop them out, On the Ranger some of them were so seized that we had to drill them, Hopefully yours will be easy too.
 

ephantmon

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UPDATE: apparently on the KJ (at least the rear wheels), there's a fully circular dust/debris shield that prevents knocking out the studs. There's no access point. Guess I'm paying the dealer...
 

ol-flattop

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UPDATE: apparently on the KJ (at least the rear wheels), there's a fully circular dust/debris shield that prevents knocking out the studs. There's no access point. Guess I'm paying the dealer...
I should have thought of that! Even if you popped the spot-weld and reattached the plate when you're done, you wouldn't have room to get a stud out. Requires further disassembly.

Alternatively, if you have a sawzall handy...you could remove the protruding end of the stud, then use a drift punch to drive the remaining nub out, and you might just have room to squeeze it out (that shield will give a bit before you damage anything, and if you do pop it off, it's not a huge problem to reattach it). You could also break out a drill at that point, but my intuition says that might not be the best idea.
 

sota

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seems kind of silly though. I've never seen a dust/debris shield that didn't have a notch out of it specifically for the task of changing a stud. sounds like something you could make yourself if you can get the broke stud out. the cut flush idea sound like it could/should/would work.
 

CobraNutt

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...but if you cut it flush...and maybe even pop it out between the axle flange and the dust shield, you still can't get s new stud in. Pull the axle out a bit, get it replaced. Not too difficult and the only way your going to get a new stud in there unless you can figure out a way to drill through the dust shield. Not sure if there is enough room around the axle to do that...

Sent from my mystical handheld gizmo.
 

ephantmon

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I've got rotors in the rear, not drums.

Edit: but yes, I took them off.
 
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Leeann

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Your rotors are drums. The parking brakes are underneath the rotor.
 

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