Need a new cylinder head

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ShadowedXistence

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Soooo... Turns out I need to replace my cylinder head on the passenger side... What all do I need to get to do this job? I know I obviously need a head and a gasket set, but not sure from there... Thanks in advance!
 

ridenby

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X2......

Better off replacing both heads.If the head is warped it can not be fixed no matter what anybody say's.You can not "unwarp" aluminum,it's impossible unless you melt it down and re-cast it.

Out of curiosity,aluminum heads can not be milled?
 

LibertyTC

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How many miles on that motor??
If it is a high mileage unit....and your are about to do the top end....
Many would argue to do the bottom as well if you want mega more miles and are keeping it.
 

ShadowedXistence

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Not exactly sure what is wrong with the head on it now... I took it to my mechanic, since I could not figure out what was going on with it, and he told me that my coolant isnt leaking "out" anywhere... that it is leaking inside the head, and burning off, that is why my spark plug is burning out at every 2000 miles, why I'm leaking coolant, and why I'm misfiring... so I don't know if it is cracked, warped, or what exactly... seems like the valve springs, valves, and such are working properly, so i'm assuming it has something to do with the head itself, and that's why he said I should replace it...

furthermore, I'm at 92000 miles... I plan on keeping it, and wondering why both sides should be replaced... I figure I don't have a bunch of money to do both sides, so if/when something goes wrong with the other side, is when I'll address it...

My mechanic told me, with the cost of the head, plus labor, that it might be cheaper to put in a new engine... wondering why this makes since/would be a good idea... i've kept up on things as they go wrong... I know how it runs, and don't think it's a good idea to put in another engine that I know nothing of its history...

I guess my biggest questions would be: how does one know the head needs to be "replaced" and also, why do both at the same time, if I'm only having problems on one side? Thanks guys!
 
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tjkj2002

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I guess my biggest questions would be: how does one know the head needs to be "replaced" and also, why do both at the same time, if I'm only having problems on one side? Thanks guys!
The only way to tell if a head is cracked or warped is to remove it and inspect it.Generally speaking if one side is bad the other is or is on it's way out on a "V" engine.
 

tjkj2002

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What difference would I notice between needing a new head vs. a head gasket? or do they typically appear the same?
Generally a blown head gasket will over pressurize the cooling system and make it appear to overheat when it isn't,a block test can verify this(google it,available at Napa for $50),not always though as it may just leak coolant and/or oil.If your getting coolant in the combustion chamber you got issues,may have a cracked block or a cracked head,or maybe not and have a intake plenum/gasket issue.
 

ShadowedXistence

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So this is what i figured I would do... I'll do the block test, so i'll have a better idea before tearing it apart... label everything as I go (even the bolts)... take my time tearing it down... remove BOTH heads... inspect them myself and see if there is anything NOTICABLE... if not, i'll send them to a shop to be looked at... put in a new gasket set... and if ONE head needs to be replaced then I'll replace BOTH... hopefully it's just the gasket...

furthermore, just to explain better what is going on... my compression test was 156 on 2, 152 on 4, and 146 on 6... I believe my book says it's suppose to be more around 170s... but then again, I'm also not overheating... does this sound more like the head, or the gasket?
 

tjkj2002

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So this is what i figured I would do... I'll do the block test, so i'll have a better idea before tearing it apart... label everything as I go (even the bolts)... take my time tearing it down... remove BOTH heads... inspect them myself and see if there is anything NOTICABLE... if not, i'll send them to a shop to be looked at... put in a new gasket set... and if ONE head needs to be replaced then I'll replace BOTH... hopefully it's just the gasket...

furthermore, just to explain better what is going on... my compression test was 156 on 2, 152 on 4, and 146 on 6... I believe my book says it's suppose to be more around 170s... but then again, I'm also not overheating... does this sound more like the head, or the gasket?
Do you have a FSM for your KJ? If not it would be very wise to get a copy since there are some things that need to be done to save alot of headaches and has the correct torque specs and such.A chiltons or haynes is not to good for a KJ and engine work.
 

ShadowedXistence

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Budke:
I found the heads for 300 each... no core charge up front... free shipping... plus a prepaid ups shipping label to send back the core... as long as you send back everything from the old heads, there is no core charge... these heads are completely remanufactured, new valves, valve springs, seats, rockers, lifters, camshaft, resurfaced, the whole works! EXCELLENT DEAL

tjkj:
I have an FSM for an 05, and if I'm not mistaken 04-06 has the exact same engine set up... so I'm thinking this should work... let me know if I'm wrong.
 

ridenby

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Budke:
I found the heads for 300 each... no core charge up front... free shipping... plus a prepaid ups shipping label to send back the core... as long as you send back everything from the old heads, there is no core charge... these heads are completely remanufactured, new valves, valve springs, seats, rockers, lifters, camshaft, resurfaced, the whole works!

Info on source for the heads?
 

ShadowedXistence

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They changed some stuff in '05,may or may not affect replacing cylinder heads.

I'll see if I can't find a link for the 04 FSM

Ridenby:
clearwater cylinder head inc. out of florida... the right cylinder head is casting no. 984 and the left is 983... cylinder-heads.com... look under chrysler

Furthermore, I've been thinking the head shouldn't be warped... It has never gotten to a temperature high enough to warp it since it has never over heated... my hunch is that the gasket is blown between cylinders 6 and 4... I'll know more when I get it apart... but we just got flooded yesterday, so it might be a couple days lol..

Also, I've found a couple brands for the head gasket set... don't know if one is more superior than the other... I'm looking for all the gaskets (head, valve cover, intake, exhaust, etc.) just wondering what others are suggesting to be the best... I don't care about the price as it seems to be between 150 and 200... but what's the BEST?
 
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iavlx

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What difference would I notice between needing a new head vs. a head gasket? or do they typically appear the same?

the only way to tell for sure is to remove the head and have it magnafluxed.sometimes when you remove the head you can see that the gasket is bad by just looking at it.i don't think those compression numbers are that far off,it's more important that the compression is close on all cylinders than what the book says for maximum compression.i've been a marine mechanic for 25 yrs.,rule of thumb is no more than 20 lbs. differance between cyls. on a 4 stroke motor.you might want to try a cylinder leakdown test on the engine before you tear it down.
dave
 

stevebaz

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If you are having head problems you will not only need the head repair and gaskets I would also recommend a new set of head bolts too. I would take your head off and see if it can be properly repaired and find the failure mechanism. If it overheated its now junk, if its corrosion failure then it can be addressed with your head guy. If it is corrosion the other head will have to be pulled too and gaskets replaced. If your head cannot be properly repaired I would buy a new head not a rebuilt. A rebuilt aluminum head is somebody's else's junk remachined and if the head you buy has been overheated then your throwing your money down the toilet. Rebuilt heads work good on steel and cast iron heads and on aluminum heads that have never been overheated and warped. Once a head overheats the aluminum changes temper and goes soft and will no longer properly hold head bolt compression. When that happens you start to loose gasket seal.
I would start looking at a new head. These guys seem to give a good dealer discount but I cant tell if it is a complete head with all the valves and springs.

http://www.wholesalemopar.com/
First off talk to a local head rebuilder about the costs to deal with your existing head. be careful taking the engine apart and take the head and the old gasket to the guy for failure analysis. Due to the costs of this job I would do a leakdown test on the engine before disassembly and I would also investigate other paths of water entry before I would pull the heads. You don't want to spend a thousand dollars to replace a 50 dollar intake gasket.
you will also need a good torque wrench.
Best of luck.
Steve
 

ShadowedXistence

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At 93xxx I'm definately going to replace all the gaskets anyway... There is a head shop bout 10 mins from my house I planned on taking the heads to to be looked at... Still don't know which brand of head gasket is considered best
 
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