my torque converter is overheated. help please

[FoxChung]

My KJ (3.7L auto) engine light was ON yesterday and I get dealer to have a look at my vehicle this morning. The technician told me it's the torque converter overheated and he cleared the engine light now which is back to OFF. I was advised to go back if the engine light is ON again.

After that, my KJ engine light remains OFF. But when I do driving, I feel the power is decreased, especially when going uphill. Also I feel the engine is abit shaggy when I accelerate (press on pedal). Can anyone tell me what is the problem? I checked the readings of the rpm as below and how about yours, are these normal?.

1st -> 2nd gear: ~2300-2500rpm
2nd -> 3rd gear: ~2300-2500rpm

or could it be because the quality of oil is poor that makes my KJ less power and shaggy at low speed when accelerating? I use the normal Unleaded Petrol half tank and mixed with previous half-filled Premium Unleaded.

 

[JeepJeepster]

May need a fluid change after the ****** over heated. Kinda strange the "****** temp" light didnt come on if it was overheating? :-s

Mine will shift that high if Im on the gas. It will shift lower if im not on the gas though.

 

[indieaz]

I agree with jeepster - it's odd the ****** temp light did not come on. There is not a seperate sensor measuring the transmission fluid temp in the torque converter. The fluid runs between the converter and the ****** and should be about the same temp. Did you ask for the codes the computer was giving?

The fluid in the converter gettign to hot one time would not affect converter performance later on. Upon a cold startup the converter should act normal. If the converter is slipping and not engaging as it should you will probalby notice is more when the transmission has warmed up. However, the fluid getting warmer than "normal" should not damage the torque converter. This is assuming your transmission fluid temp is what caused the check engine light in the first place :-k

 

[FoxChung]

the TRANS TEMP light is ON today after I run about 130km. I followed the manual to stop the vehicle at N and run the engine at idle. AFter about 15 minutes, the TRANS TEMP light was also off then. should I bring my vehicle for the dealer to inspect as the ENGINE light was ON before (somehow the dealer set it OFF) and now the TRANS TEMP light ON.? does my KJ require a torque converter clutch replacement and transmission fluid changes?


Before the TRANS TEMP light was ON, I was just doing normal driving. But I can feel it's not response well when I press on accelerate pedel. Especially when accelerate at 0km/hr it feel shaggy. WHen going uphill the street (just 60-80km/hr), the engine or transmission didn't response well and not accelerate at all until I pressed down the accelerate-pedal VERY DEEP.

Also, I've followed the way that Bennet's post on getting the code of engine light. The method is working but no code is thrown out, I think the engine light code is cleared off by the dealer already.

 

[indieaz]

Yes you'll need to take it back to the dealer at this point. There is something wrong witht he transmission causing it to overheat. Likely a bad torque converter.

 

[Lashlarue]

Since you don't know what temp your transmission was running, it is very possible it was running close to the temp that sets the code and turns on the warnng light for some length of time. Heat kills auto transmissions, burnt fluid causes excessive wear throughout the transmission.At the very least fluid should be changed. If the car still acts funny it may be time for a new ****** or a rebuild. Torque converters seldom go bad, but clutch packs and valve bodies do.

 

[FoxChung]

Since you don't know what temp your transmission was running, it is very possible it was running close to the temp that sets the code and turns on the warnng light for some length of time. Heat kills auto transmissions, burnt fluid causes excessive wear throughout the transmission.At the very least fluid should be changed. If the car still acts funny it may be time for a new ****** or a rebuild. Torque converters seldom go bad, but clutch packs and valve bodies do.

my engine light is now off, but I still find the problem. can I actually request the dealer to change the torque converter clutch?

 

[2003KJ]

Also see this thread from a few days ago....seems as if you're not the only one now.

clicky here

As I mentioned in that thread, and as has already been mentioned in this one, at the very least you need a new torque converter, as well as a complete transmission fluid FLUSH...not just a fluid change. I would advise that you DO NOT drive it any more than necessary, as you are only causing more damage to the transmission, and shortening the life of it.

 

[CRD4Liberty]

If they ever find a mechanical failure in a transmission or oil cooled engine such as a diesel, they most also change the cooler involved. The passages in the cooler are small enough to contain a large amount of material that won't flush out, but can over time return back into the system to damage your new parts. This is standard mechanical practice.

 

[JoBo]

May need a fluid change after the ****** over heated.

Agreed. Somewhere I read transmission fluid degrades big time if overheated #-o

 

[2003KJ]

May need a fluid change after the ****** over heated.

Agreed. Somewhere I read transmission fluid degrades big time if overheated #-o

It does, but it also does depend on how hot the ****** actually got. It most certainly does break the fluid down much quicker.

 

[FoxChung]

Finally, the car found out the cause of the problem.

1.software wasn't updated in 48000km service by service provider. And this could only be done by Jeep car dealer.
2.wrong standard of oil and transmission oil were used in 48000km service by another service provider.


For the 1st one, it sounds funny to me. I was experiencing not enough power when going uphill and easy overheated the transmission in short distance (< 50km) when my KJ reached 56500km. But when the dealer told me for test drive the vehicle after they uploaded the software ONLY (no oil change at this stage), the feeling of power is much different than I experienced before. No problem in uphill, no more overheating, accelerate pedal can really accelerate but not vibrating->shaggy->overheat.

For the 2nd one, car dealer told me the service provider use the wrong oil and this case rear diff vibrating especially when doing reverse.

now my KJ is awaiting for torque converter raplacement by warrantly.

 

[FoxChung]

Finally, my car dealer fixed up my car for me. They changed all the oil (including transmission oil, engine oil, transfer box oil, front and rear diff), and replaced with new torque converter.

On the way when I drive back home, everythings all right. But after 30km drive, the engine light is back on again as before. anyone knows the reason?

 

[indieaz]

Again - the check engine light can go on for a lot of reasons. You will need to get it scanned again to see what code it is throwing. It could be comnpletely unrelated to what you just had fixed.

 

[FoxChung]

Again - the check engine light can go on for a lot of reasons. You will need to get it scanned again to see what code it is throwing. It could be comnpletely unrelated to what you just had fixed.

But shouldn't the car dealer fixed the problem according to the code they first find? I have left my KJ at the car dealer for more than 1 week and it's still not fixed now. really frustrating.

 

[CRD4Liberty]

Pull the code off your odometer, look up the number, see if it's the same code as before, call dealer with info.

 

[FoxChung]

Pull the code off your odometer, look up the number, see if it's the same code as before, call dealer with info.

how to get the code from odometer? any suggestion or trick pls?