Lower ball joint loose in knuckle

[stapleg]

Replacing lower ball joints with correct moog problem solvers for 2007 and my passenger side knuckle too loose to press in. I was able to slide it in almost completely by hand.

Has anyone else encountered this? I replaced the lower ball joints once before a few years ago with detroit axle. Perhaps stretched out the bore? I really don’t want to buy new knuckles lol

 

[lfhoward]

That’s really strange! As you know the ball joint should have to be pressed in, even though the problem solvers have a snap ring to hold them in place. I’m using MOOG problem solvers on my 2008 and they are great (although in the KK they press into the lower control arm instead of the knuckle).

Maybe they sent you ones for the wrong year? Maybe the 2008 diameter is slightly smaller?

 

[stapleg]

That’s really strange! As you know the ball joint should have to be pressed in, even though the problem solvers have a snap ring to hold them in place. I’m using MOOG problem solvers on my 2008 and they are great (although in the KK they press into the lower control arm instead of the knuckle).

Maybe they sent you ones for the wrong year? Maybe the 2008 diameter is slightly smaller?

What i’ve got is the MOOG K80767 which is apparently for 2005 - 2007 if memory serves me so i should have the right ones.

These knuckles have had at least one other set of ball joints in them. So this would be the 3rd set since i’ve owned the car. It’s just odd that only the passenger side would be this loose.

I did hammer out the ball joints, maybe that stretched out the bore? Or somehow the cheapo lbjs I used before were slightly oversized?

I’ve seen some people suggest tack welding in other non-liberty forums, but that sounds sketchy. I wish there was a simple remedy I felt comfortable with, but it looks like I’ll be ordering new knuckles just to be safe. It’s just a shame the only ones i can find are ebay/amazon no name brand.

 

[lfhoward]

Interesting that the LBJ is only loose on one side. If you have a set of calipers, see if the difference is between the two ball joints or between the two knuckles.

If you do end up getting knuckles, I would recommend sourcing OEM from a junkyard, followed by wire-wheeling off the rust, followed by some good Rustoleum rust converter paint. I replaced a lower control arm that way in 2023 and it still looks good today.

 

[stapleg]

Interesting that the LBJ is only loose on one side. If you have a set of calipers, see if the difference is between the two ball joints or between the two knuckles.

If you do end up getting knuckles, I would recommend sourcing OEM from a junkyard, followed by wire-wheeling off the rust, followed by some good Rustoleum rust converter paint. I replaced a lower control arm that way in 2023 and it still looks good today.

the ball joints are identical, as i tried both in the passenger side knuckle and both were equally loose.

You think junkyard OEM is definitely the way to go? I mean, the knuckle has no moving parts and is solid, presumably the cheap new ones would be fine but idk.

 

[seafish]

Before replacing it, you could try "dapping" the existing LCA socket with a cold chisel.
Dapping involves punching a sharp, hard pointed cold chisel into the surface of the taper at regular intervals where the BJ will eventually sit. It raises up small bits of steel on the surface that will ever so slightly reduce the diameter of the the taper. It might not seem ideal, but it often works just fine once the ball joints are pressed in. You wil be able to tell if it is working by fitting the BJ by hand and see if it goes in more tightly then what it is doing now. I am guessing that you should space the "daps" about 3/8" apart in all directions.

If it doesn't work, you can still then replace the LCA.

Just my .02

 

[stapleg]

Before replacing it, you could try "dapping" the existing LCA socket with a cold chisel.
Dapping involves punching a sharp, hard pointed cold chisel into the surface of the taper at regular intervals where the BJ will eventually sit. It raises up small bits of steel on the surface that will ever so slightly reduce the diameter of the the taper. It might not seem ideal, but it often works just fine once the ball joints are pressed in. You wil be able to tell if it is working by fitting the BJ by hand and see if it goes in more tightly then what it is doing now. I am guessing that you should space the "daps" about 3/8" apart in all directions.

If it doesn't work, you can still then replace the LCA.

Just my .02

it’s the steering knuckle that holds the lower ball joint. Does this still apply?

 

[seafish]

it’s the steering knuckle that holds the lower ball joint. Does this still apply?

Yes it can still apply though I’m sure Others can correct me if they feel differently

IMO there is nothing to lose by trying this … you will know if you were successful by noting how tightly the BJ presses in when you install it.

While this is an old school mechanics trick people do this on trucks as well.

That said if you’re skeptical, you can still always buy another LCA and install the BJ in that one instead

 

[lfhoward]

^^^ If it were me I think I would give this a shot. The ball joint should have a snap ring that would prevent it from coming out, if it wasn’t tight enough. Dapping… cool, I just learned something new.

 

[njpaulkj]

For the record, a Detroit Axle lower ball joint for the Liberty is already slightly oversized and splined. The one knuckle was unlucky and is absolutely stretched out. I.was a ******* with mine. The dealer already replaced the driver's side for the recall. I had an oem TRW for cheap and decided to replace it. Shoulda left it alone after seeing a near perfect boot and no axial play in the ball. I removed it anyway (boot wrecked). OEM LBJ was too small for the bore. The dealer replacement was an non-splined, smooth black monster that beat it beat it up. (yes, that was on purpose) The use of an oversized OD was also on purpose, so the dealer would not be liable for ball joints popping out of the knuckle's tapered bore. Dang it. I had to drive to an Auto Zone and buy their splined, oversized Driveworks cheapy to get it back on the road. Had a Zerk and castle nut at least.

My life's novel. The end.

 

[stapleg]

For the record, a Detroit Axle lower ball joint for the Liberty is already slightly oversized and splined. The one knuckle was unlucky and is absolutely stretched out. I.was a ******* with mine. The dealer already replaced the driver's side for the recall. I had an oem TRW for cheap and decided to replace it. Shoulda left it alone after seeing a near perfect boot and no axial play in the ball. I removed it anyway (boot wrecked). OEM LBJ was too small for the bore. The dealer replacement was an non-splined, smooth black monster that beat it beat it up. (yes, that was on purpose) The use of an oversized OD was also on purpose, so the dealer would not be liable for ball joints popping out of the knuckle's tapered bore. Dang it. I had to drive to an Auto Zone and buy their splined, oversized Driveworks cheapy to get it back on the road. Had a Zerk and castle nut at least.

My life's novel. The end.

Makes sense. Yeah I just got two brand spanking new knuckles for my moog problem solvers. Very tight fit, needed a buddy’s help pressing them lol