Loose Turbo Meter? Could it be the problem?

[Jrlh]

2006 Jeep CRD, No warning Turbo just stopped working. Previous owner installed turbo with a tach type gauge on the dash, and no boost registering. So I ordered a turbo and tore into it yesterday Got everything off and was ready to pull turbo nuts to remove from block when i noticed what looks like a Sensor line on the back die of Turbo, i traced the wires and sure enough they go to the turbo meter. Got a wrench and started to take this off the back of turbo and it was not at all tight, two finger turns and it came out!

Now my conundrum. Do I proceed with turbo removal with this new information? Or do i put back together from here and see if the loose meter connection was causing the problem?

 

[seafish]

That mostly depends on if the “no boost”problem was that the boost gauge wasn’t reading boost because of the loose sensor or if the turbo wasn’t actually producing boost.

I’m guessing it’s the former because otherwise your CRD would be laggy and blowing a lot of black smoke which you didn’t mention.

If in fact the turbo is working and the sensor was the problem then I certainly wouldn’t waste any money on a new turbo.

Just my .02

 

[Jrlh]

That mostly depends on if the “no boost”problem was that the boost gauge wasn’t reading boost because of the loose sensor or if the turbo wasn’t actually producing boost.

I’m guessing it’s the former because otherwise your CRD would be laggy and blowing a lot of black smoke which you didn’t mention.

If in fact the turbo is working and the sensor was the problem then I certainly wouldn’t waste any money on a new turbo.

Just my .02

Oh yes, I should have clarified. No, there wasn't any boost. Very laggy, no power at all. The sensor is tapped into the turbo exhaust side housing. So the leak would have caused low boost, which is the code i was getting through the ECM. Not sure how to actually test the turbo without just putting it all back together to see.

 

[seafish]

“Test” the turbo by physically inspecting it for damage and spinning it by hand there should be just a little side play and no end play (in/out) at all.

The side play is to allow for a thin film of oil to coat the journal bearings while the turbine is spinning (sometimes at over 125k RPM). That said there should be NO interference with the housing and NO signs of physical damage to the housing or turbine wheel.

And yes the loose sensor could have reduced boost … That said, cracking at the down hose from the turbo the is ALSO a common problem on the OEM hose…it oculd be leaking too. Many people choose to replce it with a silicone hose. since it is oil degradation that causes the cracking and silicone is immune to oil.

 

[Jrlh]

“Test” the turbo by physically inspecting it for damage and spinning it by hand there should be just a little side play and no end play (in/out) at all.

The side play is to allow for a thin film of oil to coat the journal bearings. That said there should be NO interference with the housing and no signs of damage.

And yes the loose sensor could have reduced boost … That said, cracking at the down hose from the turbo the is ALSO a common problem on the OEM hose…it oculd be leaking too. Many people choose to replce it with a silicone hose. since it is oil degradation that causes the cracking and silicone is immune to oil.

Well, one reason I am questioning the turbo going out is it has had all new Samco hoses, and new turbo, when the valves, timing belt and tensioners were done 20k ago. Then when i saw the loose sensor I thought "could it really be that simple"? Came directly here! lol