Lessons learned with lift

Discussion in 'Lift Kit Discussion' started by Scottybones, Nov 21, 2016.

  1. Scottybones

    Scottybones Full Access Member

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    Wanted to throw some information out there:
    1. Use a ratchet strap to take off and install strut fork. It's under pressure and will shift when loosened.
    2. Once you get the fork lined up the best you can, raise lca with a jack and it will line up perfectly for you.
    3. DO NOT hit any studs with anything but a rubber mallet. Threads are M14X1.5 and amazon has dies for 13 and change.
    4. Not necessary to remove ubj from spindle. Raising the lca will "open" up plenty of room to get the strut assembly in and out. I actually think this is quicker since I never was able to get the ubj to budge.
    5. Mechanics gloves are a must unless you like scraped knuckles.
    6. Great time to replace sway bar links and bushings.
    7. Don't feel like you need to do it all at once (unless you have no other vehicle). PATIENCE.


    Obviously people have their own opinions about how to do it and no one way is right, as long as it's safe. I wanted to provide some options and possibly some guidance for newbies. I've replaced struts before, but this was very different from the cars I've worked on.
     
  2. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    All things that have been discussed at length over the last 14 years EXCEPT, Number 4 , very easy to remove the UBJ and so much easier . Can't do it another way really especially when installing a higher lift.
    Just clarifying

    But then no idea on how you would get the old out and new in without removing the UBJ.
    Unless you removed the LBJ which takes more time
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2016
  3. Scottybones

    Scottybones Full Access Member

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    What's the trick for the ubj? I raised the lca and still wouldn't come out. I hit it so hard that I need to run a die over it. I don't agree with the UBJ having to come out, and if you're installing a bigger lift you have to replace the the UCA anyways. It took me 2 mins to raise the LCA and get the strut up and mounted. I wasted more time trying to get the knuckle off UCA than it took to get the strut in and the fork lined up and torqued down.
    Like I said this way worked way better for me and it could be a good option for people that are going with a smaller lift.
     
  4. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    Hit the spindle, not the ball joint stud. I usually whack it from the flat side of it (side that faces the back of the Jeep). Takes a few hits and pops free.

    I've never had to use a ratchet strap on the clevis either. Mine just slides into place. My KJ isn't as high as some though.
     
  5. sparky123321

    sparky123321 Full Access Member

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  6. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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    Ratchet strap is just fine. I really only needed to use it for the initial install. Of course I'm up towards the 4" mark.

    This shouldn't be necessary. Just a few good whacks to the spindle and you're good.
     
  7. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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    If you were whacking the studs of the ball joint I would highly consider replacing it...they're not meant to take that kind of punishment.
     
  8. sparky123321

    sparky123321 Full Access Member

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    Agree, but only paid $30 for the tool, so figure it was better to have on hand.
     
  9. sparky123321

    sparky123321 Full Access Member

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    No, most people whack the spindle with a hammer and the ball joint just pops free..
     
  10. Scottybones

    Scottybones Full Access Member

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    Roger. I'll try that on the drivers side today and see if it works for shits and giggles. I whacked the shit out of it once I got a rubber mallet from work, but I didn't try whacking the back.
    Lucky you with the fork, but it's only an extra 5 mins if you have to use the strap so not that big of a deal.
     
  11. Scottybones

    Scottybones Full Access Member

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    But they can take the punishment of going off road and everything else people throw at them?
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2016
  12. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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    Yes. That's not direct blunt force to the actual joint itself. There are a lot of pieces of the suspension (and of course the tire) that spread out the force of hitting a pothole, etc. Does a ball joint take some trauma when you hit a bump like that? Absolutely. But it's not a direct hit like a mini sledge to the stud.
     
  13. sparky123321

    sparky123321 Full Access Member

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    Others please correct me if I'm wrong, but a metal mallet or hammer will work much better than a rubber one. Just don't go crazy with it.
     
  14. Scottybones

    Scottybones Full Access Member

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  15. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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    You shouldn't be hitting the studs. I use a big metal hammer and hit once or twice in the spots in the picture below. Should pop them loose. If it hasn't, try moving the knuckle around a bit and it may just fall right out. I've had that happen a time or two. When doing this, back the nut out close the bottom so that when the knuckle comes loose from the balljoint, it doesn't fall outward and damage anything.
     

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  16. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  17. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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  18. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I use a small 3 lb sledge on ball joints, tie rod ends etc , Usually no more than one good hit. All I do is think of wife number two, then swing!:happy175:
     
  19. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Thats comparing apples to oranges
     
  20. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    The other thing you can do it back the nut off and spray some PB plaster into the hole where the UBJ stud goes through. Might help. Just don't get it on any boots since it eats rubber.