So this is VERY ANNOYING. I think one of the 3 is bad, or maybe there is a wiring problem I haven't found, but I doubt it.
Is there any way to confirm which is bad so that I know to just buy one, or buy all 3? Or go to dealer or find a car locksmith? Unfortunately I have only ever had one key because I had no idea what all was involved in getting a spare.
Here is what happened if it helps any. I am going to start from now and go backwards in time.
Right now, when I turn the switch it won't crank over. The red sentry light stays lit. After trying to crank and nothing, leaving the key in the on position the other lights go out and the Check Engine Light stays on, After a bit the CEL will blink off and flash 5 times staying lit the 5th time. After a while longer the red sentry light will blink off once and light right back up. The keyless entry still works right now though. No problem. Oh and once in a while here lately the key doesn't want to turn forward. I will have to turn it back to ACC and then it's fine. I start/stop many times a day every day so I hadn't paid a lot of attention to this considering 218k miles. I have no idea how the key switch and starter haven't just fell out by now, lol.
Yesterday, I went out to go to work, it cranked up fine and immediately died 2 seconds later. I tried 3 times. Then went and got keys for the other car and left. Thought about it and thought well maybe it is the battery. I have heard of this issue being the battery. I checked it and it was just a little over 12v. I pulled it out and took it in the garage, checked electrolyte levels and charged it overnight. This morning it read 12.99v so I put it back in the Jeep and by then it was 12.4 volts. Went to crank it and that is when it started the not cranking over like above. I still had not noticed the little red light (which I thought was fuel pump prime light until now). So I threw jumper cables on it before I assumed dead cell I went for a new battery. Nothing and after a bit I noticed the light.
Prior to this new years eve the key fob would not unlock the doors or pop the rear glass. I changed the battery and it worked.
Prior to this a month ago the key fob would not work. I stopped for battery. It still would not work so I checked all the connections and put the old battery back. It started working again later on. Seemed intermittent. I use it a lot while working so it came and went a couple of times and I thought one time I could get it to start and stop working by messing with turning the steering wheel some. But that may just be a fluke.
Sometime several months ago I noticed the flashers stopped flashing when using keyless entry. Just the interior lights come on. I actually never thought about this again until now because I have always found that obnoxious. I assumed some secondary hazard flasher somewhere had just went out and was kinda happy about it. I remember thinking now if I only knew what to unplug so the horn didn't toot when locking.
This is a nightmare for me. I can't work. I understand that I could get a PCM, but without getting one with a SKIM delete it will be screwed up if I put it in and it turns out the wireless control module is bad. If the WCM is bad I assume both have to be replaced and then I'd have to get keys too?
I am not against the SKIM delete. But I do NEED the remote entry part, so...
Does any of the above help narrow it any? The dealer of course was no help. I'd have to have it towed in and pay the diagnosis fee and they would get back to me on what all needs replacing, parts and labor etc...
Is there any way to confirm which is bad so that I know to just buy one, or buy all 3? Or go to dealer or find a car locksmith? Unfortunately I have only ever had one key because I had no idea what all was involved in getting a spare.
Here is what happened if it helps any. I am going to start from now and go backwards in time.
Right now, when I turn the switch it won't crank over. The red sentry light stays lit. After trying to crank and nothing, leaving the key in the on position the other lights go out and the Check Engine Light stays on, After a bit the CEL will blink off and flash 5 times staying lit the 5th time. After a while longer the red sentry light will blink off once and light right back up. The keyless entry still works right now though. No problem. Oh and once in a while here lately the key doesn't want to turn forward. I will have to turn it back to ACC and then it's fine. I start/stop many times a day every day so I hadn't paid a lot of attention to this considering 218k miles. I have no idea how the key switch and starter haven't just fell out by now, lol.
Yesterday, I went out to go to work, it cranked up fine and immediately died 2 seconds later. I tried 3 times. Then went and got keys for the other car and left. Thought about it and thought well maybe it is the battery. I have heard of this issue being the battery. I checked it and it was just a little over 12v. I pulled it out and took it in the garage, checked electrolyte levels and charged it overnight. This morning it read 12.99v so I put it back in the Jeep and by then it was 12.4 volts. Went to crank it and that is when it started the not cranking over like above. I still had not noticed the little red light (which I thought was fuel pump prime light until now). So I threw jumper cables on it before I assumed dead cell I went for a new battery. Nothing and after a bit I noticed the light.
Prior to this new years eve the key fob would not unlock the doors or pop the rear glass. I changed the battery and it worked.
Prior to this a month ago the key fob would not work. I stopped for battery. It still would not work so I checked all the connections and put the old battery back. It started working again later on. Seemed intermittent. I use it a lot while working so it came and went a couple of times and I thought one time I could get it to start and stop working by messing with turning the steering wheel some. But that may just be a fluke.
Sometime several months ago I noticed the flashers stopped flashing when using keyless entry. Just the interior lights come on. I actually never thought about this again until now because I have always found that obnoxious. I assumed some secondary hazard flasher somewhere had just went out and was kinda happy about it. I remember thinking now if I only knew what to unplug so the horn didn't toot when locking.
This is a nightmare for me. I can't work. I understand that I could get a PCM, but without getting one with a SKIM delete it will be screwed up if I put it in and it turns out the wireless control module is bad. If the WCM is bad I assume both have to be replaced and then I'd have to get keys too?
I am not against the SKIM delete. But I do NEED the remote entry part, so...
Does any of the above help narrow it any? The dealer of course was no help. I'd have to have it towed in and pay the diagnosis fee and they would get back to me on what all needs replacing, parts and labor etc...
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