Installing Pigtails

[WickedBruce]

Alright ladies and gentleman I've got the parts that I need, now I just need a someone to shed some light on how to install this stuff! I've got a connector with about a 12in pigtail for both the alternator and the purge solenoid. I need to splice them into the pre-existing wires...I'm unsure of how to do this properly! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[Paul M]

Get some 3M scotch blocks (HD, Lowes, auto store)...they allow easy splicing into the existing harness without cutting or stripping (a clamp action, just need pliers). If you want the best option then strip back half an inch of insulation on each harness wire you plan to tie into, twist/wrap the new wire onto the bare harness wire, solder, then seal the connection using liquid tape then wrap with electrical tape. In either case I would fold the pigtail back along the harness and tape off a short section as a strain relief to protect the connections from excessive vibration.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Ya, what Paul M said.

 

[Paul M]

Ya, what Paul M said.

I was thinking there was product out there better than the ScotchLok IDC connector but couldn't recall. (We always called them Scotchblocks.) Checked out 3M and found they now make a gel-fiilled version which is perfect for vehicle use since the original style connector would eventually corrode then fail...usually when you're towing something...at night...and the police are out and about looking for no trailer lights.:disgust:

 

[WickedBruce]

Are you referring to these...
3M 054007-68538 model UR2 100PK Scotchlok UR2 Communication IDC, Pigtail, 100 Pack, Moisture-resistant, RUS Listed, Full featured, Maximum Insulation 0.082" (2,08 mm), AWG range 19-26 (0,9-0,4) Solid wire, Operating Temperature -40 to 285°F (-40 to 1

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Are you referring to these...
3M 054007-68538 model UR2 100PK Scotchlok UR2 Communication IDC, Pigtail, 100 Pack, Moisture-resistant, RUS Listed, Full featured, Maximum Insulation 0.082" (2,08 mm), AWG range 19-26 (0,9-0,4) Solid wire, Operating Temperature -40 to 285°F (-40 to 1

Usually those are used for telephone wiring.

These: 3M Scotchlok Blue (18-14) 100 Pcs. 082-105

 

[Paul M]

Usually those are used for telephone wiring.

These: 3M Scotchlok Blue (18-14) 100 Pcs. 082-105

Yup...there are a bunch of versions available that are moisture resistant and gel filled (for regular wiring and Telco) but may be hard to find locally. Honestly use the Blue's(or equivalent) in Ry' N Jen's link (they're the basic version found everywhere). No need to overthink it if you tape it up well.

 

[WickedBruce]

Well I picked up the blue ones in the link. Now I'm just waiting for the pigtails. Found out that they are apparently patented by chrysler..and can only get them at a dealership. I'm not a fan of dealerships at all. lol

 

[WickedBruce]

i just got the parts in from the dealership...and i literally have no idea how this is supposed to go together lol

 

[Paul M]

i just got the parts in from the dealership...and i literally have no idea how this is supposed to go together lol

Piece o' cake, altho I could be 100% positive if I had the parts in front of me. What you have is the connector, terminated pigtails with seals (nice), a plastic strain relief setscrew, a couple of pieces of heatshrink, and a few crimps (not fully sure by the picture what these are for but if you see a manufacturer name on the connector housing you can Google them and find an assembly drawing. Otherwise see where they fit. Likely part of the strain relief assembly.)

The wires plug into the connector - assemble them from the correct direction (front or back, but usually from the back.) They should snap into place. The heatshrink is for the wire color pairs to keep the setscrew strain relief from damaging the wires...intall one each over a pair, then use a heat gun to shrink it down. Install the setscrew. Done.

 

[WickedBruce]

Ok I've got the connectors and wires assembled and matching the old ones exactly. It's for the alternator and the purge solenoid...so...can i just start using the scothloks right to the old wiring with the car off...or do i have to disconnect anything?

 

[Paul M]

Ok I've got the connectors and wires assembled and matching the old ones exactly. It's for the alternator and the purge solenoid...so...can i just start using the scothloks right to the old wiring with the car off...or do i have to disconnect anything?

If it were me I'd take the positive cable off the battery just to be sure. No sense shorting something out...creating a bigger messier job from a simple one.:disgust: