Help with Frankenlift

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sydbro

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Im having a hell of a time getting the clevis fork to line up. It seems like the strut spring needs to be compressed several inches for it to line up or the lower control arm needs to drop. I tried using a spring compressor with no luck. I read some how tos about using a crow bar or ratchet straps but neither seem to be getting me anywhere close to where it needs to be. Am I doing something wrong here? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Corwyyn

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Don't know if you've seen this post over on LOST: Dayton Frankenlift Party (page 2). There are some pics there of using a 2x4 to force the LCA down enough to get the bottom of the clevis aligned, might be something to consider. When I installed my Daystar lift I used a 2x4 in conjunction with a ratchet strap to get them lined up (I was working by myself) and they went on pretty easily.
 

icarl

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Frankenlift is very tough to get that lower clevis bolt in for sure. How I did it was I used a rachet strap and crow bars to get the clevis close to the bolt hole so that it was just underneath. Then I used the spring compressor. Don't use the spring compressor first as that stiffens everything up and you won't be able to move it. After using the spring compressor I had a helper use a 4' long weight bar to pry the strut up by compressing it. The bar was placed through the bottom of the strut on the top of the skid plate so it could be pried up. While this was happening I had a crow bar and finagled it into place close enough so I could whack the bolt throught the holes. 'phew' that was a lot of typing. Hope this helps. Oh i just remembered, I also kept the top strut bolts off, all except one that was loose to allow the strut to move more freely in place. You might not have to use the spring compressor if you put one fork on first with the bolt and then the other. That's how I did the first side. No matter how you do it it's a pain in the @#!$%!
 

tjkj2002

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It's not hard at all,ripped my front lift off about 10 times(longer and stiffer springs then the HD OME's) and have installed 4 Frankinlift's and 1 JBA's 4" lift,and the JBA's 4" lift was the hardest but only took about 5min to line up the lower clevis and LCA per side,the others about 2min and most of that time is putting the ratchet straps on.

It's real easy with the knuckle off,just stick a prybar in the LCA LBJ hole and push the LCA down and have another person ratchet the ratchet straps down untill the clevis and LCA line up somewhat and then hammer in the bolt.The bolt has a tappered point on it so it is safe to hammer it in.
 

icarl

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Well okay, maybe it works for you, but I tried prying the control arm down as well and it was not enough. I even used a 4' long 1.5" weight bar and bent the bar to get the first side in place. My springs were so stiff that I bent the spring compressors while compressing them. Let's just say that if you could do mine in 10 mins I would be very impressed.
 
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tjkj2002

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Well okay, maybe it works for you, but I tried prying the control arm down as well and it was not enough. I even used a 4' long 1.5" weight bar and bent the bar to get the first side in place. My springs were so stiff that I bent the spring compressors while compressing them.
Another way to make it easier is to loosen the cam bolts that hold the LCA's on,you need a alignment anyway so no need to worry about messing up your alignment.With the cam bolts torqued your fighting the rubber bushings when trying to pry the LCA down.

When I replaced my LCA's they virtually dropped straight down when I loosened those cam bolts.
 

icarl

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Thanks. I wish the Frankenlift came with better instructions. The instructions even say that you can waste a lot of time on this but they don't really tell you how to do it right!
 

sydbro

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thanks for the help guys. finally got it on with ratchet straps and pry bar. if that can be done in five minutes then im abe lincoln
 

Corwyyn

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thanks for the help guys. finally got it on with ratchet straps and pry bar. if that can be done in five minutes then im abe lincoln
Well I couldn't do it in that amount of time, but I don't have the years of experience doing this type of work that Troy has.
 

tjkj2002

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Well we had to pull the JBA 4" lift today and reduce it's height,so I timed doing the lower clevis bolt install times(all times +/- a few seconds,kinda hard to look at watch and work to)----

Passenger side--2min 34sec for ratchet strap install(finding them and putting them on),and 49sec to align the clevis and put bolt in.

Drivers side--1min 12sec to put on ratchet straps,40sec to put in lower clevis bolt in.

This is with Rock Lizard operating the ratchet straps and myself pushing down the LCA and putting bolt in.
 

icarl

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Well we had to pull the JBA 4" lift today and reduce it's height,so I timed doing the lower clevis bolt install times(all times +/- a few seconds,kinda hard to look at watch and work to)----

Passenger side--2min 34sec for ratchet strap install(finding them and putting them on),and 49sec to align the clevis and put bolt in.

Drivers side--1min 12sec to put on ratchet straps,40sec to put in lower clevis bolt in.

This is with Rock Lizard operating the ratchet straps and myself pushing down the LCA and putting bolt in.


Wow! Maybe we should start a new olympic event - timed lift kit installs. haha. :D . How come you had to lower the 4" lift?
 

icarl

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To stiff of springs in the front giving over 5.5" of lift and causing havoc on the front CV's,no go in 4wd due to major clicking and grinding noises.

I thought Al's lift was supposed to solve that problem. Aren't the CV's shaved?
 

tjkj2002

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I thought Al's lift was supposed to solve that problem. Aren't the CV's shaved?
Only if you buy the JE Reel ones from him,took the CV's to many places and since they are hardened steel it would have cost $300+ per CV to get cut down and about 8-10 hours to cut them.Could use a grinder but that would heat the metal to much and effect the hardness and would be very sloppy.

Oh and cutting the CV's(only the inner one gets cut) eleminates the retaining ring that holds the inner CV together,could possibly pull apart if enough droop is acheived,not to mention the the barbed area to put the CV clamp,unless you have them machined in also,more $$$$.
 

KJ04

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Yeah, those front coils are rated at 450 lbs., which would be ideal for an ARB bumper and winch. For a stocker 450 lbs. is way to stiff.
 
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