HELLLLP! I broke a rear upper shock bolt

[BjBnet]

I can't get it out. Drilled a hole through it and broke a bolt extract inside it trying to turn the bolt. Got the pieces of the extractor out but the bolt remains.
What are my options?
Yes the shock has been removed...
Thanks for any suggestions.

 

[Jo6pak]

A MAP torch and another go with a new extractor??

 

[BjBnet]

did that, bought a Map torch today and broke 2 extractors. I might try cutting the part that sticks out from the frame so I can get to the bolt better and weld a a spacer in its place. That or cut a square in the frame so I can get to the bolt from inside and weld the square back on

 

[tjkj2002]

Drill it out and retap for the next larger bolt size.

 

[J-Thompson]

Drill it out and retap for the next larger bolt size.

X2 or
also a good bolt extractor should do the job ,I use them all the time
the secrete is to heat the "nut" but not the bolt
then try to extract the broken bolt
heat will DESTROY a bolt extractor

 

[twack]

Skip the bolt extractor and use a left handed drill bit

 

[J-Thompson]

Skip the bolt extractor and use a left handed drill bit

They do not work as good as a bolt extractor
also if there are pcs. of the bolt extractor still in there he will
break the drill bit

 

[huntbuggy]

If you do decide to drill and tap up to the next size be careful with the Crappy Tire taps they're pretty weak and I've broken a couple already. (Will go with the CT Maximum titaniums next time but live and learn)

Got newer fasteners and my missing busted taps from a more reputed store (no made in China like CT - just USA made stuff) in our neck of the woods best place is down on Robertson Rd in Nepean.

http://www.ottawafastenersupply.com/

Maybe give them a call and see if they have better extractor or left hand bits? Worst case they have good bits and taps and carry the Cimtap oils pretty cheap.

 

[BjBnet]

well no luck so far and it's worse now.
So I'm thinking, remove the tailpipe hanger bolt on the other side(BTW, I'm having problems with the rear right shock bolt) grind the weld for that threaded "nut" and get another made up.
That's all it is right? A 6" or so cylinder threaded all the way through so that the pipe hanger threads in on one side and the shock bolt on the other? I think it's my last option at this point because I can't drill past that broken extractor piece that keeps chewing up my bits and it's made the drilling go to the side.
I actually have a few pieces of cold rolled steel about the same side I can have drilled out and tapped then I can weld it back on.

I've learned a lesson from all this...anytime I remove a stock bolt off my freakin vehicle apply anti seize to it. This is the third or forth bolt I've had seize on my KJ since I lifted it...must be the climate or something...poor thing hasn't been out all weekend lol