Engine Cooling Fan will not turn on when it should

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TrailRiderRob

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Hi folks,
Hopefully someone has had this problem and been able to solve it. Sorry, this is a bit long, but I have spent a lot of time troubleshooting this and want to make sure I cover everything I have done so any real car gurus can help think of something I am missing.
The problem is the engine cooling fan on my 02 Liberty sport 3.7L will not come on at 203 DegF (this is what the manual says) like it should . It will not come on at 204 205 206 or at any time up to the 220 DegF that I am willing to wait for the PCM to turn it on before I shut the engine off.
The engine cooling fan DOES come on when I turn on the AC (or turn on defrost) so this tells me that the entire circuit from the pcm to the fan motor is good. In the wiring diagrams the signal to turn on the fan (regardless of why) comes from the pcm to the engine fan control module/relay telling the module to supply power to the fan.
Pause for a little history on the vehicle. I bought it not running for $500 hoping that I could put reman heads on it and drive off into the sunset, but it was to late and one valve seat fell out and ruined cylinder 2 piston. Not being a quitter, I bought a remanufactured engine from a reputable retailer. So it has a better than new engine with new water pump, new thermostat. Of the cooling system the only parts from the original are the engine coolant temp sensor, radiator, the heater core and the hoses.
I thought, "bad engine coolant temp (ect) sensor" and tested it using a multimeter. It tested out good, but I later replaced it anyway.
I hooked up my OBD scanner which can monitor the coolant temp in near real time (so I can watch it climb steadily to 220) and this tells me that the pcm IS receiving the signal from the ect sensor (since the data on the OBD port is coming from the pcm). I also unplugged the connector from the ect sensor while the engine was running which instantly killed my temp reading on the scanner (and temp gauge on dash) both readings returned when I plugged it back in. I also unplugged the fan control module and ran a quick scan using the OBD scanner. It gave the OEM code P1491 (Radiator Fan Control Relay Circuit) as it should. After plugging the module back in it did not give the code again.
The only thing that I can conclude is that this is a problem inside the pcm, either software or hardware.
One last strange thing, as the engine warms up with my OBD scanner connected I closely watched the temp gauge on the jeep and it climbed in line with the temp displaying on the scanner, until around 195DegF, then the temp gauge would not go any higher (just below midpoint), even though I could watch the temp continue to climb using the scanner.

There are a couple of other problems I am working on that are probably affecting how hot it runs, but should not prevent the fan from coming on. The Catalytic converter on the side that dropped the valve seat was ruined. I ordered a new one, which didn't come yet, so I am using the old one (after punching several holes through the melted honeycomb) so the exhaust gases can still flow. The old radiator was pretty rusty inside and even though I flushed it while I had it removed until the water came out clean and flushed the heater core while the engine was out and then back flushed the entire system again after it was all together. Then I drained the cooling system and filled it with 50/50 mix of the Mopar HAOT coolant and distilled water then bled the air out using the bleeder near the upper radiator hose. I am still getting some rust back into my coolant reservoir during testing, so I broke down and ordered a new radiator. Last symptom is that the heater is blowing "lukewarm", but not hot air.
Plans today are to pull the thermostat out and test it then wait for the new radiator. Still, my fan should come on.
Happy trails and Thanks for any help.
 
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TrailRiderRob

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I did take it on a test drive on the highway. Monitoring temp with OBD scanner. The temp stayed solid at 208 DegF while driving, but waiting at a stop light for about 1 min it climbed to a little over 220 without the fan coming on. I chickened out and turned on defrost to force the fan to come on which brought the temp down and then it returned to 208 driving on the return trip. From what I can gather 200-210 is optimal operating temp which is why the fan comes on at 203. I am pretty sure the original engine in this thing was ruined because of this problem so don't plan on driving it except maybe to the dealer to see if they can do anything to correct what seems to me to be a fault in the pcm.
 

uss2defiant

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Check this first.

The e-rad fan only comes on at certain conditions.

OPERATION
The electric radiator cooling fan is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through the radiator cooling fan relay. The PCM regulates fan operation based on input from the engine coolant temperature sensor, battery temperature sensor,air
conditioning select switch and vehicle speed. The fan is not energized during engine cranking regardless of the electrical input from the temperature sensors and ,air conditioning switch. However, if engine operation conditions warrant fan engagement, the fan will run once engine starts.

Vehicles Equipped with AC:
In addition to using coolant temperature and battery temperature sensor to control cooling fan operation, the cooling fan will also be engaged when the ,air conditioning system is activated. The relay is also energized when, air conditioning is selected and coolant temperature is above 95° C ( 203° F), or , air conditioning is selected and battery temperature sensor is above 41° C (106°F). It will then de-energize when , air conditioning is selected and coolant temperature is below 92° C (198° F), or , air conditioning is selected and battery temperature is below 38° C (100° F).
 

tjkj2002

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Somewhere between being sane and insane!
The electric cooling fan comes on at 219 degrees(+/- a few degrees) when the A/C is not selected(or defrost).The AUX clutch fan for HD cooling "locks" at 230 degrees for the OE clutch.

Should shut off at around 199 degrees or so.


The Temp guage is a "dummy guage".At the half point your coolant temp is between 178 degrees and 229 degrees,at 3/4 your temp is 230 to 259 degrees,and at full hot your above 260 degrees.
 

RobKlinky

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I had a similar problem. I replaced everything single part I could think of and the problem remained. So I ran a new harness with a relay to the fan and mounted a rocker switch in the cabin to turn it on/off manually.
 

TrailRiderRob

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Problem solved. So the new radiator arrived and I put it in today. While down there I pulled the thermostat and reinstalled it. There is a small weep hole on the thermostat that must be lined up with a small recess in the thermostat housing. The engine runs much cooler now (around 208 just sitting at idle) and the Erad cooling fan came on just like it should between 210-220. Not sure which of these fixed the problem or if was just gremlins, but it is good now. Thanks
 
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