Debating An Offroading Lighting Idea

Discussion in 'Fabrication' started by profdlp, Jul 16, 2016.

  1. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Aircraft landing lights come in a few different sizes and are 12-13 volt
    Used to run them all the time they even have LEDs now
    I know they have 4 inch and can't remember the other size I ran plus available at NAPA
     
  2. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    The only thing I need at this point are the lens covers. There is a good picture of them in Post #32. (The dark red pieces.) I've got the rest.

    If you look at the last picture in Post #33 that is what it looks like without the lens covers. I would skip the lens cover altogether and go with that but it is recessed so much I think the things would sound like a pipe organ once the air hits them at driving speed.
     
  3. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    I wouldn't even worry about the lens covers, many types of strip insulation, ( bead type ) that would fill that area up and no whistles if any at all anyways
    I got some that was suppose to be used around a door to use on one of my old metal coolers and looks like it would be the size you need .
    Got at Lowes I think
     
  4. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    I may give it a shot, then. I guess if I can't quiet things down I could move on to Plan B.
     
  5. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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    silicone caulk it maybe?
     
  6. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    The lens covers are 3/8" thick, which leaves a lot of room for air to whistle around in there.

    It's funny, because I hear a lot of people complaining about problems with wind whistling off their roof rack. Mine is quiet, but I'd like to keep it that way. Of all the things I thought might be hard to figure out with this project, the lens covers were not one of them. :emotions34:
     
  7. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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    Stick all 4 on it and give it a whirl! :D
    It may be a non issue like Tom mentioned.
     
  8. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    A lot of the wind noises comes from where you mount them, how high you mount them, as well as shape
    I ran Hellas of front of my RL rack and never had a bit of noise
     
  9. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    Shape, etc., looks fine. (I hope it "sounds" fine, too!) Without the lens covers it looks like it might be like blowing across an open pop bottle.

    One way to find out, though... :D
     
  10. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    I have made a lot of progress today. Finished figuring out the workaround for the oddball military electrical connects, and...

    I think I finally found the dadgum bulbs - and they are LEDs!!! :pepper: :emoticondancer: :pepper:

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KJ94Q1K/

    Any reason I shouldn't put two spots in the middle with a flood on each end?
     
  11. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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    glad you found some LED lights to fit in those housing.
    i think that's a good idea.
    Maybe angle the flood lights outwards a bit to get more coverage if you need it.
     
  12. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    I'm glad to hear it, because I went ahead and ordered them. They are supposed to be here Monday. :D

    Here's another question: My (big) roof rack is centered over the roof rails from front to rear. This makes the front of the rack pretty far back from the top of the windshield. To get the wire(s)* down the edge of the windshield they would have to run across the roof of the Jeep a good distance. Is there an easy way to get them inside the cab anywhere close to the front mounting points of the roof rails?

    *I say wire(s) because I'm giving serious thought to running the two inside spots off of one switch and the two outside floods off of another. That way I could choose between one set or the other, or flip both switches for both pair.
     
  13. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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    I still haven't figured out my aux. reverse lights and how to route the wires to the trailer wiring. I know how I want to route the wires down to the bumper but I still haven't figured out how to go through the bumper yet.

    I think you could still just run it along the roof rails then a couple of cable tie mounts on the black plastic strip that's inline to the roof rails. I'll be using a few of those to hold my wires to the body to route wires flushed around the rear glass.

    I think Mason from iron forge mentioned to me that the cables can go underneath the said plastic strip but I don't know how true that is. I'm still waiting on a set of front light brackets. x.x
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  14. profdlp

    profdlp Grouchy Old Cuss

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    Where in the bumper are you trying to get through? When I put my trailer light harness in I tapped into the power connector for the ciggie plug in the cargo bay.

    I have a pair of work lights for the back of the cargo I need to do too. The hard part will be getting the wires inside the cab. From there I know just what to do.

    I am understandable leery of punching a bunch of holes (or even one) in the roof of the Jeep if I can avoid it. I shower daily and don't need a second one every time it rains. :Insane:
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017
  15. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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    I've been looking for away to route wires down near where the tail gate hinge is.

    If you want some cable tie down mounts let me know and I'll mail some to you. still owe you from the PCV you sent me.
     
  16. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    IF you use floods on the sides I would wire them with two switches, one runs outsides, other inside spots.
    I ran mine that way and worked well , on back roads going slow could just use the out side floods to show sides of roads out in the field , spotted many dear that way ( before they came to the road, not to shoot them) LOL
     
  17. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes its true, ran mine that way years ago
     
  18. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Goes right under the black plastic piece at the rear and then down the side , simple
     
  19. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    No need to
     
  20. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

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    Tom, Just to be sure I understood you. You are saying that there is a black plastic piece some where by the D/S tail light and the tail gate hinge?

    Just to be clear, I have figured how i would route my wires from the rear part of the roof rails down to the rear bumper.
    Just don't see a clear way to get though the rear bumper around the hinged side (Driver side) to get to the trailer harness.

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2017