Changing belt tensioner with hd fan

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mk_v

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I started trying to change my belt tensioner, I got the belt off but getting the tensioner from the housing I'm having difficulty. When I am trying to loosen the bolt it will not give. With the hd fan makes very little room to work. Any suggestions? I tried tapping the wrench in hopes of loosening the seal but can't. Any suggestions?


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uss2defiant

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Use the belt tensioner wrench with your socket or breaker bar.

Once you have the initial torque to loosen it, switch to a 1/4" socket wrench.
Unless you have giant hands, it shouldn't be too difficult.
 
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mk_v

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I think I just may have to take the fan off with the hd fan this is how much space I have


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CzarKJ

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Well take the electrical fan out first (I hope you cut the bottom so it can be done without removing the clutch fan)
 

mk_v

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Well take the electrical fan out first (I hope you cut the bottom so it can be done without removing the clutch fan)


I haven't I've been looking up how to remove the clutch fab


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mk_v

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From what I've heard it's a royal pain with the shroud the way it is... good luck


Yeah it's becoming a big pita. I just rounded the head and can't get it to bite with my bolt grip set.


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CzarKJ

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Yeah it's becoming a big pita. I just rounded the head and can't get it to bite with my bolt grip set.


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I would see if you could try to trim the fan shroud from the bottom before you go nuts. If you can then you can pull the efan out
 

mk_v

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I would see if you could try to trim the fan shroud from the bottom before you go nuts. If you can then you can pull the efan out


I'll give it a try tomorrow just ended up so frustrated with it. Any suggestions on how much to trim? Just up to the widest part so I can pull the cover off and clear the fan?


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CzarKJ

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I'll give it a try tomorrow just ended up so frustrated with it. Any suggestions on how much to trim? Just up to the widest part so I can pull the cover off and clear the fan?


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I think a 1x8 section in the middle should work. I will check if I have a picture somewhere.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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I would see if you could try to trim the fan shroud from the bottom before you go nuts. If you can then you can pull the efan out

Czar is right. From underneath you can trim the shroud about 3/4" back and just wide enough so it will clear the mechanical fan. Then disconnect the electrical connector, remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the top of the shroud and lift it up enough to get to the tensioner.

The HD shroud makes it a pain to get to anything at the front of the engine - including the oil filter. I lift the shroud up each time I do an oil change - having the 3/4" trimmed off the bottom of the shroud is a must for me.

Bob
 

mk_v

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Czar is right. From underneath you can trim the shroud about 3/4" back and just wide enough so it will clear the mechanical fan. Then disconnect the electrical connector, remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the top of the shroud and lift it up enough to get to the tensioner.



The HD shroud makes it a pain to get to anything at the front of the engine - including the oil filter. I lift the shroud up each time I do an oil change - having the 3/4" trimmed off the bottom of the shroud is a must for me.



Bob


Thank you for the insight that helps a lot. I've always reached up from the bottom in the front left corner to change the filter. I'm going to do that tomorrow


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lostinthemidwest

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I've done this on my libby, and although a tight fit, there is absolutely NO need to trim anything. Bug me and I'll take some photos as I'm about to remove the tensioner to change the water pump. The main issues are:
* disconnect the negative battery terminal and put the terminal in a plastic bag or a glove. * Let the engine cool down
* You MUST use a serpentine belt tool as clearance is tight (you use it as a lever to swing the LEFT most pulley clockwise). The loaner tools at the autoparts chains like Autozone and Oreilly are perfectly suitable.
*Once the belt is removed, remove the bolt as shown at 1:19 in this video.
*inspect the belt carefully, and if there is any sign of cracking, replace it with only the OEM belt (05135745AA) as there is a hatched pattern on the back of the belt to make sure there is good grip on the water pump pulley (the big smooth pulley with no ribs). All the other aftermarket belts I've inspected don't have this hatched pattern, and I presume the hatching is there for a good reason (probably to prevent slippage and overheating).

*If you bought an aftermarket tensioner, inspect very carefully to make sure there is no play in the idler pulley bearings. I bought an aftermarket tensioner initially but returned it when I discovered the slop and ended up buying the oem version.
 
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