Brake job

[mindbomb]

My brakes are toast -
Background:
Rear right sticked twice (cleaner fixed it for now) - but it got overheated/smoked and stinked.
Front rotors probably wrapped (steering wheel vibration when braking @30mph+)

My questions:

• Replace rotors in rear too?
• Should I go with slotted/drilled | slotted | solid rotors? in front, in rear?
• Pads - ceramic / semi-metallic / other?
• specific brands/types recommendation?
• Fluid flush - should I fill dot3 or dot4? (got ABS, which is inactive because one sensor is toast too). How much fluid do I need (32oz / gallon)?
• Since the rear right stuck and overheated - will I need also new calipers? Wheel bearings (heat damage)?

Thanks

 

[JasonJ]

I'll do my best here:

Replace rotors in rear too? YES. Always best to replace rotors with pads- new rotors are machines too close to minimum thickness tolerances to re-use (most of the time).
Should I go with slotted/drilled | slotted | solid rotors? in front, in rear? Solid rotors front and back. Drilled and slotted rotors just take away surface area that could have been used for braking. Unless it's a Ferarri or there is a real REASON to go with drilled or slotted, stick with OE style solid all the way around.
Pads - ceramic / semi-metallic / other? Ceramic will not have as much visible dust, tend to last a long time and make little noise; more expensive option. Semi-metallic are extremely common, usually OE on most older vehicles. Makes a lot of brake dust and noise, but affordable and do the job. Stay away from organic. No reason to look at any other compounds.
specific brands/types recommendation?
Fluid flush - should I fill dot3 or dot4? (got ABS, which is inactive because one sensor is toast too). How much fluid do I need (32oz / gallon)? Either DOR3 or 4, they intermix. I usually use about a quart to quart and a half.
Since the rear right stuck and overheated - will I need also new calipers? Wheel bearings (heat damage)? That will depend on if the caliper is still sticking. Was it the piston that stuck or the guide pins? You would know once you got in there and tore it apart.. if the piston does not retract all the way, rebuild/buy a new(reman) caliper.. if the guide pins are seized, can't be removed, whatever.. that stops them from sliding freely like a greased pig down a hot metal roof... consider replacement.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Check the rotors in the rear for wear. See if they are above the minimum (should be stamped on them somewhere). If they're still thick enough, then you can run them. Wouldn't worry about wheel bearings. Get solid rotors front and rear. I've run EBC green stuff pads and Centric rotors on mine, now I have Powerstop Z23 sport ceramic pads and rotors. The Centric rotors were great. Green stuff pads were a little dusty. The Powerstop ones are pretty much dust free, I'd go ceramic front and rear.

What stuck on the rear? The slide pins or the caliper piston? If it's the slide pins then I'd just get new ones and lube them up good. If it's the caliper I'd swap it out. Probably just go local and get a reman one. Chance are you'll need the warranty so may as well have it be local.