Anyone have any idea why my engine is shutting off.

[navupmyself]

I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty Renegade 3.7L V6 with 230,000 miles that I bought about two weeks ago. Been driving fine, had only two engine codes. P0122, and P0158. Looked it up and everyonr seemed to say it wasn't an immediate fix that was needed. Few days later I change the oil, everything is good. Yesterday, I top up the coolant resovoir with somr plain distilled water, probably used less than a 1/4 of a gallon, checked all the fluids, everything was max level, and was in good condition.

This afternoon, I turn it on for a wuick drive. Turns on fine, idles fine. But I hear this sloshing/water flowing sound behind the passenger side dash. Turn on headlights. Shift to reverse. I don't feel it engage. Give it a bit of gas, goes to 1.3K RPM, then drops all the way to zero, shuts off, and I get and oil pressure light.

I decide to try it again, and everything seems fine. Coming to a stop and no problems. Taking off from a stop, it seems like right after I give it a bit of gas and take my foot off the pedal, it either drops down to 300 RPM, then rises qickly bsck to 600-700, or it shuts off entirely and I lose all engine power, and the oil pressure light comes on. Run my little OBD2 scanner again, and now I have a P0740 code, "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit/Open" is what it says.

Anyone have any sort of idea as to what the hell is going on?

 

[LibertyTC]

So you have a throttle position sensor, gone awonk (get a mopar), a need for an 02 sensor (use an NTK)
and now the torque converter clutch= throwing a code...

There is a lot going on here. Are there any oil bubbles on the oil dipstick?
Hoat coolant is used and using 1/4 gallon plain distilled water, well is there a leak somewhere, also where air can enter system??
The gurgling sound could be trapped air in system in heater core. You can bleed air out using allan key or hex socket at top of rad hose, by opening slightly and let fluid flow a bit out.

I would start with installing a new Mopar throttle position sensor, getting it within spec.
Also idle is controlled by the intake air control, which likes to get carbon inside the ports etc.
Clean the IAC & associated ports see post #10 link:http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/idle-air-control-no-screws-44826/
Then see after the above repairs and clearing codes, if then the torque converter works again properly or not.

 

[navupmyself]

No bubbles on the engine oil, it's brand new, and at the proper level, like I said.

No leaks, everything is bone dry.

I'll try the bleeder, and read the post you mentioned, thanks.

 

[LibertyTC]

Excellent & here is your online factory service manual link: http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
You will have to reference the metal tang a quarter turn back on the Tps (throttle position sensor)
If you need further help let us know.
Edit / Have jeep warmed up & running, then open air bleed just slightly to get some air out. You may hve to repeat this a few times to get the gurgling gone.
Ensure after jeep sits over night that the fluid level in the coolant reservoir is at the cold line each moring to check for a few days too.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

The stalling I'm guessing is from the torque converter failing to unlock. Might be time to get a new transmission sadly...that's the code mine started throwing at about 150k and by the time I got to 160k it was time for a new trans.

 

[navupmyself]

Well I fixed the problem.

I ordered both sensors but they'll be here in a few days.

In the meantime I decided to take off the idle air control valve. Took off the clip, disconnected the battery, had to remove a few hoses to get the right angle, unscrewed the screws on the valve, pulled it out, and sure enough, there was tons of grease and carbon build up.

I cleaned it with some 50% isopropyl alcohol (I didn't have anything else), put everything back on, then everything worked great, no more stalling after giving it gas.

There was some high idling (900-1,000 RPM) while parked, but after some driving around the backroads getting up to 60MPH and being generous on the RPMs, the idle went back to normal. Still seems a little 'twitchy' on the RPMs (will randomly increase by 50-100 RPM while parked) but atleast no more stalling. I'm assuming more driving will get the ECU back on track.

I got to go to school now but I'll post the before and after pictures for you all when I get back.

Thanks everyone.

 

[navupmyself]

https://imgur.com/a/bg0Mt4O

Here is the before and after cleaning.

 

[TomB985]

Wow.

IAC was my first thought, glad the fix is was cheap!

 

[LibertyTC]

Even though that IAC looks better, that pintle shaft still looks crusty.
I would get some TB or Carb cleaner spray, and address a further clean up, keep the pintle down while cleaning only and a tooth brush works well.
Alcohol is not a good carbon remover so with the carb spray, also clean the interior housing well too, while IAC is off again.
If more weird idle's exists, just get a new IAC and make sure the interior housing is spotless, like in my link from post #2.